Busky2k

Hmm every grounding electrode on my spark plug have always turned a bit white, but the electrode and ceramic tip are completely clean. I wonder if that means im running lean, hopenot..

I wouldnt be using that stuff in a GTST. There are plenty of much better oils you can try. Do a search in the maintainance forum and u'll get hours worth of reading. IMO, Shell Helix Ultra is good at $45 a bottle!

His car might be auto, ever thought of that? LOL Altho the auto doesnt have 5th... But one thing, if he has a manual and he notices the revs are lower, then its a sure sign that probably the other things he noticed are just "coincidental" too.. No offence or anything.

I cant really tell by the picture, but is it all over the grounding electrode or the ceramic tip? Seems as if that cylinder is having a problem, perhaps running lean.

Would it be good to put the unit into a few cars, like a 13sec car, 14 sec car and 12 sec car? Then it would be a much more reliable comparison.

My stock clutch shudders a bit when cold, but it only seemed to do it when I give the clutch a bit of a hard time a few drives ago, but it disspears after a while. I think its due to resin deposits on the flywheel causing it, just like shuddering of brakes when you run them too hard.

Dont forget Roy, it gets bloody hot in the engine bay, considering the pipe is right next to the turbo so it could soften quite a bit methinks. My SR20 doesnt have a spiral wire to help support it but I still think its strong enough to prevent collapsing. But one thing for sure, it has all those corrugated surfaces and irregular diameter which would hurt flow by quite a bit. (BUt still not as restrictive as the pesky 50mm SR20 AFM!) So I think it would be worth replacing with a mandrel bent pipe to address those problems, especially if you upgrade to a Z32 AFM/bigger turbo.

9krpm, Im pretty sure there is a place here in SA that did it. I'll dig up the magazine article for you.

Have you still considered getting the stock diff nitrided or cyrogenically treated instead? I think it might be worth doing before you put a nonS2000 diff in.

Yeah just drive it as normal and fill up again lat. If there was any dirt in the system it woulda eventually made its way into the pump anyway, but remember fuel pumps have a nice "pickup sock".

Redline oil isnt $50/L. Thats outrageous. Its roughly about $27, but thats almost outrageous too. But then again M1 Supersyn such as 0W-40 is bloody expensive aswell.

Yep I do. Well used to anyway. Got a 20L drum for $45. It was excellent stuff, and used a 10% ratio. Now since mobil has shut down their plant in adelaide, its much harder to get. Motrex said they couldnt get it anymore... But I think BP still can get it.

You could do it if you want, but I wouldnt try it w/o using a timing light otherwise you really dont know what amount of timing you are winding in. I'd leave it because the ECU is already designed to operate on 100RON!

I bought Syntrax from a distro for $16/L. Try search around for one.

Emre, I've been running 7s for the last 9 months, and they havent even been close to fouling, and I do city driving only really...

I didnt think Toluene hurt plugs at all, so long as you dont use more than 20%. Toluene hurts the rubber in the fuel systems more than anything. But its MUCH safer to use than any octane booster. Petrol has toluene and alot of other benzene derivatives anyway..

100,000km is just a rule of thumb. It wont 'snap' at any time soon. It would probably even last to 150,000km no problems, but its just alot more risky. Just change it whenever you can get around to it. As with any belt wear, look for flays, cracks and any stress marks. Dont forget to look on the teeth side of the belt aswell, as cracks are much more likely to appear between teeth.

I picked up a Bosch 040 pump for $250 just as a price guide...

Yup strutto is correct, it doesnt matter what fluid you use, because a viscous coupling unit is not affected by the oil so you can just use any GL5 rated oil as you please. Mechanical/clutch style diffs in commodores etc are sensitive to the fluid's coefficient of friction so you must use a specified differential oil in those...

If you cant get them anymore, get the NGK BKR6E. They are the same thing! (ie V-Power) I use the 7 heat range version of them..

I wonder if the exhaust cam gear mod works for an SR20 just as well as for an RB25?? Anyone know this?

No offence or anything, but I'd be a tad dissapointed with the results? Only 50 more rwkw on already 270, I'd expect more for a pair of 2530s hanging off the side with the extra (supposedly large) $$ spent? Either way 320rwkw isnt something to be messed with heheh The 2530s have alot more torque under the curve Oh btw Merli, the overlaid graph in the first link is not the comparo hahah

Yup, might be able to drop in for a lil while haha

I personally dont believe in hardly any of the additives on the market either, and I do understand raist60's points clearly. There is lots of snake oil out there, and its hard to wade through alot of bullshit claims and what not. Altho there is a diamond in the rough somewhere, but you have to look for it. I could sit here and garbage additives all night, but its not in my best interest (or anyone elses for that matter). If you think its worked for you, then you got what you paid for. Easy! The best way to test Roil IMO is to do double blind tests. One person gets a placebo additive and one gets the real treatment, and compare the percieved differences for both people then. Dynos would be helpful too, but expensive cos its gotta be done before and after, and hopefully the parameters are similiar for both runs. Remember "the butt dyno" recalibrates almost every week... ie feels slow 2 weeks after the zorst went on etc... Also everyone has good claims from users for every product, even the dodgy ones like Slick 50 and Motorup. Hell even those shitty Abswing ads etc do. Ok said enough, just remember, you never know until u try it I guess!

Melting spark plugs tells you that the plug isnt at fault, there is somethin wrong with ur tuning unless your heat range is grossly wrong (which it isnt). You should try a BCPR7ES or BKR7E (V-Power) plug next time. I use the latter, and its a good plug!