Busky2k

Theres definitely something wrong with your engine, and not the ECU which causing the fuel economy problems. If you smell petrol all the time, you might have a leak in the petrol lines, or tank. Or maybe even your petrol cap is stuffed.

Ah, well thats cos of the PCV valve (positive crankcase ventilation) system Joel. On a stock car, some engine vacuum is passed into the crankcase via the PCV at idle and light loads. The vacuum draws in the blow by gasses to get burnt. (At full boost, the valve shuts so no boost goes into the crankcase.) You dont get idle problems because the other side of the crankcase is connected via a hose to the turbo cold pipe after the AFM. So any excess air that is being sucked in thru the PCV is being metered and thus is a closed system. By creating a 'leak' in this system via opening the oil cap or dipstick, unmetered air goes into the crankcase and through the PCV, and thus that would explain the idle roughness. That is why when you vent the crankcase to atmosphere (instead of letting it get blown into the turbo cold pipe), you should plug up the PCV or you will get idle problems..

Sounds like the mechanic is talking rubbish more like it. Did he mean raw fuel, or the thing running rich? If its raw fuel, you gotta leak. If it was running rich on idle, somethings up with your car, but it aint a fuel pump!

Wow I thought the actuator setups woulda been the same? But yeah by putting washers between the actuator bracket, and the turbo itself, it put alot more pretention on the spring. I dont have pics, and i CBF removing the AFM/Turbo hot pipe to get one either haha But check this out, this is another very interesting (and cheap!) idea to get some more pretention on the actuator; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread...ad.php?t=589293

Nothing gets 'sucked' out. The pressure in the crankcase (thanks to blow by) will force any of the gases out on its own... Try taking off your oil cap while idling, and you'll see what i mean.

Hahah that article on the antispeed camera gangsters is hilarious. Wonder why such craziness hasnt started here yet, with all redlight cameras becoming speeding ones...

Joel, I found just buy using washers and longer studs is much easier than redrillin the bracket!

I use NGK BKR7E (V-Power 'grooved' plugs) gapped at 0.9mm. Nope, no misfires, even at 17psi. These plugs are the best ive used (considering the platinums misfied like all hell at 0.9mm) and best of all, they're cheap! Stuff like octane booster fouls plugs easily, so if they are a bit shagged, toss em out and throw in a new set every 10,000ks...

Ryco is nasty shit. I wouldnt touch it with a 10 foot pole. Ive had too many whose anti drain back valves just dont bloody work so it takes the engine 5 seconds to rebuild oil pressure during a cold startup. Even some chinese cheapies dont do it... You cant get Mobil 1 filters here unfortuantely. I have had good luck with Valvoline filters, despite them being 1/2 the price of a Ryco. If you want the highest quality, K&N are great, but at $30 filter, its pretty hardcore!! Probably the best filters are still the OEM one!! The Nissan one is excellent..

I dont think you'll actually gain any power. But if you decide to remove it, its probably a better idea to block off the line coming from the fuel tank which not only stinks and is a hazard, but also is a waste of fuel. Dont worry about the tank not being ventilated as the fuel cap is designed to let air in or out of the tank as needed.

Just wondering, if injectors are run at or very close to 100% duty cycle, are the spray patterns adversly affected?? Also, I noted that BOOSTD mentioned that increasing the fuel pressure by higher than 10% screwed the spray patterns, but I dont see how this is appliciable if the standard reg would be boosting the rail pressure during boost situations anyway??

Perhaps your turbo seals are starting to let go? Pull off the AFM piping and inspect your compressor for any oil stains. Also check the compressor cover outlet aswell. I dont run my catch tank recirculating. I mean what for? Better to keep the unmetered and potentially oxygen deficient air (being blowby gas mostly) out of the engine all together... I couldnt tell how exactly how your catch tank is plumbed (I have an SR20 so I cant even guess!). Where is the outlet from the tank plugged into? Before the intercooler? My suggestion not running it recirculated, cleaning the pipes and then inspecting it again in 3 months time.

Hell yeah I missed out on the last one, but if there is a future one I wouldnt mind coming along..

245s should fit ok without too much stretching. I have 255s on a 9.5" rim, and the rim sticks out over the rubber just a tad. VERY curb unfriendly however =(

I dont think Nissan would pay up to adonise such a huge thing as a GTR intercooler! haha

Only problem is with the Blitz SUS they hardly filter any better than chicken wire. Dirt ingestion has a major effect on engine life, so its worth getting something half decent. My Unifilter pod is pretty damn loud, probably due to the metallic funnel. Have to cover my ears on the dyno compared to some other setups Ive seen.

Thats an interesting find. Maybe hes right, but I dont really like the idea of putting non specified fluids into something expensive like an auto tranny. His analogy is sorta like slipping a clutch. Slip and ride a clutch like 17 yo n00b in a festiva, then the clutch wont last. I suppose you can try the Racing ATF and check the shifting, but I reckon the HiTemp or D4 stuff is still the way to go personally...

Good idea. Definitely get them flow tested so you can throw the higher flowing units into the more detonation prone cylinders (cant remember which ones they are on the RBs).

The blue wire is for a 2nd AFM for the likes of a GTR etc. Also the Throttle should show approx 0.5V when closed and ~4V when fully open. So yours is fine, so dont adjust!

Going out on a limb here, but do you reckon you could do one for the 200SXs? Im sure a couple of ppl here would be interested...

Use lightweight shockproof in the diff. The heavy stuff is too thick. As for ATF, just stick with the Synthetic D4 ATF. The Hi Temp stuff isnt really worth payin extra for unless you want piece of mind. The Racing ATF will most likely prematurely wear out your clutch packs because it is not Dexron III approved.

The stock gauges arent all that accurate so I wouldnt worry too much, especially if your engine is nice and quiet. If its really hot where you live, i would advise using a thicker oil, like a 5W40 or 5W50 (Shell Helix Ultra / Mobil 1 respectively). This would keep the pressure up in the heat.

Yeah actually today I was thinkin of puttin the blitz logo on my intercooler aswell. But if for some reason I want to get rid of it later, im not sure how without damaging the finish..

Perhaps your clutch isnt completely disengaging when you put the pedal to the floor. You could get that checked out. Otherwise I think it would be worth trying to change your gearbox oil as a temporary measure. If you cant get the filler plug off, just take it to a mechanic to get them to loosen both plugs for you. Then try some Castrol VMX 80 with the nulon stuff. If that doesnt help, time for a new box. Or if you are daring, maybe Redline Shockproof oil.

I dont think camber would have anything to do with pulling to the left unless one side is completely off. I would get your front toe in checked once again. Or perhaps your castor is a bit out aswell...