Busky2k

The 'Alloy Rear Spacer Cradles' are just metal pineapples. I'd go for the eurethane ones, as they probably wont be as noisy and usually have a slit in them to make it easier to install. You can get em from whiteline or in the for sale section on www.nissansilvia.com from sponsors etc

Yep as the others said, variance is definitely more important because the absolute readings of every gauge are different. I would try disabling the injectors as I found they deflated the readings by upto 10psi. So pull the fuse to the ECU or disconnect each injector if its accessible! Oh and, dont forget to have all 6 sparkies out when you do it, and also have the throttle wide open!

Ive got a set you can borrow. But seriously, they arent too expensive.. and handy in the future.

I dont think by doing more cruising is gonna prove shit. Probably just more attention and trouble for you and everyone else who drives imports.

Hey man what happened to the V6 Supercharged? Suppose it wasnt a good platform to begin with...

A 0W isnt too light at all. Its still 3-5x thicker at room temp than a 50 weight is at 100C. You want the oil at room temp (ie startup) to be as thin as possible..

Ive used it in all the cars I've serviced. Works well, not too expensive and lasts 4 years. Thats peace of mind. The best way to do it is to flush out the cooling system a few times using distilled water. Then throw a whole jug of 2.5L of the Nulon green concentrate stuff. Works out to be ~33% for most cars. Easy as that...

Yup your understanding is half correct. You want oil to be as thin as possible when cold so it circulates quickly to areas where oil is needed. An oil at 20C is on average 10x thicker than it is at 100C. So an oil doesnt 'thicken up' as the temp rises. Its just a number which is relative to the viscosity of a 'straight weight oil' compared to a multiweight like a 10W40. More info here; http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html You do a get a minute increase in performance using a 30 instead of a 40 weight oil. BUt its in the order of 0.5 - 1% which is almost nil. I'd stick with a 40 weight. 50 is abit too thick and in some cases, cause more wear in very cold climates.

2L is enough! Im suprised they dont sell Redline in containers.. Sounds a bit dodgy...

On my moms car she has Grid IIIs on her 530i sport all round. They're a lil louder than the Dunlop SP 2000s they replaced, but they grip better, and is more responsive in terms of feedback. I dont drive the car much, let alone throw it into corners alot but from what i gather, i give it the thumbs up! I have the older Grid II model on the front left (which replaced a poped SZ50) and Firestone SZ50 EP on the front right of my car. The Firestone is definitely better. The G2 likes to squirm alot when pushed hard into a corner... SZ50 holds on like shit to carpet. Its a suprisingly very good tire... (and is the best tyre consumer rated on thetyrerack.com as voted by thousands of ppl!). GO here for more info; http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult...ay.jsp?type=UHP

One of the very few oil flush additives that I recommend is Wynns which is detergent based (like in the oil already). Stuff like Nulon and other cheap and nasties are just kerosene or other harsh solvents in a bottle which just makes the oil very thin. Also these formulations can be very aggressive on seals and can cause your engine to spring leaks (like Nulon did on my last car).

The higher the W (winter) rating doesnt mean better protection. The lower the number, the better cold start fluidity which is actually good Ie 0W40 provide better cold protection than an equivalent 15W40. I'd probably get a 10W/40 (or any 0/5/10W 40) for your car considering its done a few miles and also our summers are damn hot, and moreover because I would assume your car is modified! Something like Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 or Motul Turbolight 10W40.

Yo man, Redline MT90 is a GL4 gearbox oil, not a diff oil! Hehe but Redline 75W90 Gear oil is the same price. If I were you, i'd go for the Motul PA 90 or Castrol SAF-XA which is a full synthetic. (Sorry I said Syntrax before, thats not a diff oil, but a gearbox and non LSD diff oil). You can easily find SAF-XA in any auto store or Big W (its in a silver bottle). Alternatively you can use Castrol LSX 90 which is a mineral version of SAF-XA (white bottle).

Dont waste such a good oil! If you want to give it a lil clean up, grab some black and gold stuff from the supermarket and run that for about 100ks. Then flush it out, and use the motul. Motul 8100 has some esters as the base oil, which are naturally very good detergents. So i'd say the motul is doing a good job keeping your engine clean.

Being diff, the first criteria is that the oil must be rated as API GL5. Secondly, being a mechanical diff, the fluid must be friction modified in order for the clutch packs to lock up properly without shudder etc. So the oil must say on the bottle it is suitable for mechanical differential applications. If it doesnt, don't use it. (for stock viscous coupling units, this is NOT an issue) For example, Motul Gear 300, Redline 75w90 NS and Castrol MTX are GL5 oils, but not diff oils. Castrol Syntrax, Redline 75W90 and Motul PA 90 on the other hand re. So take a look around at the performnce shops

That 2 ppm is either a lab error or contamination. It certianly isnt of a high enough to be doing anything if it ever was some additive (like Borates and Zn in ZDDP for anitwear protection, Ca for detergency, Mo for secondary AW protection/friction modifier etc). Go check out bobistheoilguy.com forums for all the virgin oil analysis samples you ever have wanted.

Thats a crock! Ive seen plenty of fresh oil analysis samples of mobil 1 and none of them contain any metals in there at all (let alone other oils!). You might be confused with Molybdenum (MoDTC) or something else. But M1 does the job quite nicely in 95% of cars. For the hardcore racers out there, Motul 300V would be more suitable. Also 25,000kms is too long interval for Redline. Thats just marketing hype, espeically in a turbo car. The oil will be loaded with fuel and blow by contaminants and the oils TBN reserve will be dangerously low. Your best to change it out at a maximum of 15,000ks regardless.

Dont forget, HKS Step 1 and 2 cams also work with VVT.

I suggest you dont turn up the boost anymore than what you ahve it set at. Once you go past 100% the AFM cant measure any more air so this can result in a severe lean out, or a fuel cut. I suggest you go to a dyno ASAP. ALso think about getting a Z32 AFM and a PowerFC.

Hmmm actually I read somewhere the S14 box has a thicker main shaft or something like that. Not exactly sure, but I do know people with S13s who have blown boxes. After all, nothings unbreakable!

Yup mine cost $100 to get tuned. The guy did literally did it in 5 minutes, 1 power run, tweak, another power run, tweak, final power run. Money please! Kinda dissapointed me in the BFYB terms haha But the gains were solid...

They're not weak at all, but they're no RB25 boxes either. The S14 is the strongest from the Silvias. The S15 is the weakest, where >200rwkw, its days are numbered.

Yep they should fit! Im not so sure about the positioning of the oil/water lines however. What would be interesting is a pair of S15 BB turbos...

SR20 Power man How does she handle? I bet the ride quality however isnt in the same league as the skylines..

I didnt notice the change at all either. Maybe it was a bit less resposive when you stab the throttle very quickly at idle but other than that, its all good!