jarrod83

Hey, i got to watch my car on the dyno the other day and noticed it had heaps of air/white smoke coming out the cam covers breather hole as i had the catch can setup disconnected, it started at 3000 as it started to make boost and by 7000 it was a pretty substantial plume of smoke/air, alot more smoke than i would of expected for blow by.. The engine has done roughly 1300kms, used 9:1 cp pistons and rings, i compression tested it the other day when it was cold, since the car is missing a radiator atm and got roughly 158-160 for pistons 3-6 and 155 for 1 and 2, wont be able to compression test it warm until i get my new radiator.. should i get a leak down test done as well or is this usual for a forged engine and im just being a bit paranoid? Cheers Jarrod

in terms of not laggy.. what sort of rpm are you expecting full boost? a gt35r should be around 3500-3700 and make around 500rwhp depending on the exhaust housnig, a t04z will be more like 3800-4000 and make over 550rwhp with the right supporting mods anything over 400rwhp youd definately need a better clutch my last exedy only lasted 3000 kms at 408rwhp 740cc injectors or bigger, depending on final power and fuel maybe also add ARP head and main studs to your list (probably already on it) dont see a 3inch exhaust supporting that much power, probably 3.5" or bigger.. maybe a good twin at that sort of power youd really want to make sure the head flows well so you dont have to run much boost, maybe a light porting? probably have a look thru the rb30 dyno section for other peoples mods and have a look at what seems to work hope that helps a bit Jarrod

its hitting the middle of the split bit of the dump that seperates the wastegate and turbo exhaust gases, maybe try grinding out enough from the divider so the waste gate doesn't foul on it

The plazmaman is a very well designed plenum for midrange power, i have one on my forged 25/30 with a gt35r 0.82 turbo and i actually make more power than my standard rb25 with its standard turbo across the entire revv range, the only point it even gets slightly close is at 2700RPM, before and especially after that it just gets blown away and manages full boost very close to 3500 rpm... There is definitely a lot of pros for the plenum, my only problem with it is that its extremely hard to work around the intake side of the engine bay when changing anything like the oil filter.. it takes up alot of space.. but id definately still pick it over a greddy plenum also the standard throttle body narrows down very close to 60mm, the plazmamans nice shiny tb is 72mm which is roughly 44% bigger.. has anyone managed to fit in a strut brace over a 25/30 in a r33 engine bay without having to lower the cross member? (i know it would depend on the brace)

i dont think all do, but theres a fair few i know of that definately do, check it manually and see if its free to swing open... what sort of boost pressures is it creeping to? whoa jason ive never seen the standard map before, that runs a hell of a lot of timing in the mid range at light cruise

after completely stripping the car, i found and fixed the problem, ended up cutting the boost solonoid signal from the ecu and fixed the problem Cheers for the suggestions Jarrod

alright ive tracked down the problem to be the resistance on pin 7 on the ecu causing it to twitch around, when the cars off every 15 secs or so it goes from earth to discontinuity causing the blitz tacho to flick upto 500rpm n the dash tacho to slightly flicker, when the cars on and idling this resistance cycles between 900-1400, ive checked the earths on the ecu and they are all stables, has anyone got any clue what could cause this? Cheers Jarrod

sorry man im half asleep been trying to work out the bugs with my car all day... ill try and explain it better... basically the blow by causes combustion pressure to go passed your pistons and rings and into the oil system, if the air isnt venting fast enough, say out of ur catch cans atmo vent, you have a build up of pressure in your oil system which forces its way out through your oil seals, i may be wrong on this part but i think cause the oil return line is connected via a nice sized return hose to the sump, the blow by in the oil system goes up ur turbo return line and out ur turbo seals taking oil along with it.. and you end up with oil spitting out both sides of your turbo.. anyway tomorrow try disconnecting the catch can and leaving the hoses running straight to atmosphere, if the oil doesnt go away then this is a pretty good guide to fixing the problem http://www.tepturbos.com/troubleshooting2.htm those turbos are temperamental

just swapped the entire instrument dash over with a friends and made no change, i also checked all the positives to the ecc and all grounds to the ecu all were fine, ive looked for anything else feeding off the tachometer wire but couldnt find anything connected to it =/ Jarrod

the pin outs from the ecu, pin 5 is RPM and pin 7 is the tachometer speed signal that runs to the tacho in the dash

it probably is the turbo oil seal from the sounds of things, have you tried removing the catch can system all together and just run a nice sized pipe from cam cover breather to under the car, just to completely eliminateante the possibility of it being caused by blow by. When i use to have bad blow by with my 25 engine it would blow oil out the turbo seals into both sides of the turbo and get oil everywhere, so i tried a catch can, but with the hoses and the atmo vent not being big enough just made the problem worse... if the problem goes away with the breathe pipe going straight to atmo with no filter i would advise in getting a custom catch can made up something similar to the rips one, where both cam covers feed to it and it has 2 filters venting to the atmosphere if the problems still there you could try removing the dump pipe after its been sitting over night and seeing if any oil has leaked down into it from the turbo hope that helps Jarrod

hmm the only thing i have on my rpm wire is the blitz wire which i have removed, i only have the tacho wire from the loom loosely wired in atm, i probably should add some solder to completely eliminate it, but i doubt its the problem and as far as i can tell its the only thing wired into the tachometer line. Does your car do the weird tacho thing with the standard ecu in? and does the A-LSD error whenever the tacho is playing up? i noticed my car also uses pin out 5 which is also suppose to be a RPM out which i assumed goes to the active lsd, i wonder if pin 5 and 7 are connected and its actually a fault on the active lsd side of the circuit, ill check it later when im re-testing all my powers, grounds and wire resistivity's Jarrod

haha Jason, you'll get around to fixing it someday I swapped the alternator with a friends and didnt make a difference to the twitching, is there anything else in the alternator circuitry that could be playing up? does anyone know if its possible for the cas to play up in such a way that it still runs the car but the RPM will play up with a power fc? i find it strange that it was being tapped with a screw driver and hammer then 5 mins later my tacho is broken i have a late model series 2 with the plastic cas, so its a very hard part to get hold of and test

Jason: when i first turn the car on the power starts at like 13.5V n quickly climbs to 14.2-14.3V, after drivin around for a while i noticed it falls down to about 13.8-13.9V, but as you know we had some alternator problems before and i think it would definitely be worth having a look at Paul: Yeh i thought it may of been my blitz revv meter causing it at first, but i cut that from the loom and made little difference, its strange our symptoms are the same as most the posts i have read with a faulty tacho talk about theirs hitting red line. I haven't done the A-lsd power fc mod, because my A-LSD has never ever failed before, Ive done some big burnouts and the lights never came on. It has played up where it only spins one wheel, but that generally improves greatly after i use a compressor to bleed the system. I read one of the posts towards the end that the A-LSD also gets the RPM of the vehicle sent to it so it may explain why the A-LSD has been error'ing since the tacho has been on the fritz. ill check my tps out from the ecu and if its not getting the tps out voltage ill splice it in when im fixing the wires Ive cut from the loom. Ill be checking the alternator and dash cluster today and will get back to you's Cheers for the info Jarrod

Ive checked the crank angle sensor outputs to the ecu, the 2 120 degree cas wires pins 41 and 51 both display 5v at the same 120 degree interval... pin 42 and 52 are the 1 degree cas signals, pin 52 is empty and pin 42 displayed between 2-3V at much smaller at intervals.. is that meant to be 5V as well?

Hey guys, finally got my car back on the dyno for the second time yesterday, it made bugger all power which im pretty sure was caused by the active lsd playing up since it was error coding and came back with the tacho broken Ive tried pretty much everything i can think of.. leaving me out of ideas.. The problem is with the power fc in, the tacho twitches sporadically at idle and as you revv it up past 2000rpm it drops to 0, the blitz i colour i have is also wired into the tacho wire from the ecu and displays the exact same problem. The rpm display on the power fc comes up fine, which im pretty sure is sourced from the vct sensor? When the standard ecu is in the car, the tacho reads fine, when my power fc is in my friends car the tacho reads fine, and when my friends power fc is in my car it has the exact same problem, so it's definitely not the ecu. Ive checked all the grounds i can find, all the fuses, removed the blitz wiring from the ecu loom and checked the speed sensors on the gearbox visually. I measured the voltage coming from the ecu on pin 7 which was flactuating with the tachometer and dropped to 0 as the tacho did as well. The only possible cause i can think of was yesterday i had my drivers side door open when it started to rain about a 1 hour before the dyno session and got just inside the door and some of the power steering controls wet Cheers for any suggestions Jarrod

Sorry to dig up a old thread but looking at getting nos and my tuner recommends getting one of these haltech platinum pros for my rb25.. i was wondering if anyone had any experience in comparing the streetability of the new haltech to a power fc? or is it only really good for a race track orientated car Cheers Jarrod

Hey could i please get a pic of the surge tank setup and fuel pumps Jarrod

got the power steering pump working.. it just wasnt wanting to drain the resorvoir into the pump, a good 30 mins of turning the steering wheel backwards and forth while the car was off fixed it, sorted out the wobble as well =]

Hey guys, finally got my car running tonight.. after 7 months off the road it feels so good to be back behind the wheel anyway most of the engine stuff has gone pretty well... everything seems normal as far as i can tell so far.. im having trouble with the power steering pump, it doesnt seem to want to suck up any of the power steering fluid from the reservoir, all the fluid was completely drained when it was all apart and the pump is new from a 2nd hand gtr.. ill give it another go tomorrow and do a bit of forum searching.. the main problem im having is i had to lower the k frame about 15 mm to clear the dump pipe, which has thrown my steering geometry out.. would a wheel alignment possible fix this? when i get the car running properly i do plan to take it to get the dump pipe modified so the k frame can be moved back to its original height. Cheers for any info Jarrod

When you stick the rb30 gasket over the rb25 head it should be easier to see the problem, the vct oil gallery feed on the head and the water gallery next to it, which is located at the front of the engine on the intake side. The vct feed needs to be welded up so it doesnt leak into the water gallery, and the water gallery has next to no sealing area for the gasket so some metal has to be welded onto the edge, sand it back flat, grind out the extra metal using the gasket as a template then deck the block. If you havent got a gasket check the before and pics of the link you posted and you can see the new water gallery hole is much shorter you have to weld up the head for the vct feed regardless, so its probably easier modifying the head hope that helps Jarrod

ill be taking my rb25 series 2 pump off in a few days ill post some pics up of the rb30e and rb25det pumps.. i know the 25 pump flows more at a higher pressure, i think dirt garage is talking about the gears within the pump itself? can you explain it a little more dirt garage... i have heard of a few rb30e oil pump failures with the pump cracking at fairly high revvs if your going to use the rb30e oil pump i wouldnt restrict the oil feeds Jarrod

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...er-t251669.html heres were i got the info from, give me a msg if theres anything you dont understand Jarrod

the rb30e pump can be used but since it has a very small area of contact it is not ideal, the series 2 r33 gtst pump used in conjunction with a crank collar will give a much greater area of contact and should be a more reliable, especially at higher revs. As for the oil restrictors, that would depend on the oil pump used and the type of vct oil feed if any, that you are doing.. i think if you do the external vct feed or no vct you should block one of and use a 1.5mm restrictor, im doing the internal vct oil feed that uses the oil gallery in the head to supply oil to the vct cam, so im going to try using only a 1.5mm restrictor and see how that goes.. i have also drilled out the oil return holes and running a rear head oil drain kit.. so instead of the stock 2x2mm and 1x1.5mm oil feed to the head ill have 1x2mm and 1x1.5mm Jarrod

the final honing got done today :S without a torque plate.. gave up arguing with them as they recon it wouldnt make f**k all difference.. picked the pistons up from the ceramic shop so they could be measured... somehow they were all exactly 1thou bigger than the factory specifications so they honing it out an extra thou.. i had the pistons double checked by an engineering place and they arrived at the same results... when the pistons get back from the ceramic shop if they are noticeably bigger or uneven ill take everything to another shop to get torque plate honed.. but the ceramic shop said the extra clearance from the coat on the skirts doesnt effect the clearance as its a dry film lubrication layer and the skirts run colder with the crowns ceramic coated.. ill double check again tomorrow with them when i drop the pistons back off.. good to hear the newer rings seal better.. Thanks for the info guys, hopefully it all comes together even if it costs a little more Jarrod