jarrod83

+1 for the jumper pack... mines bailed me out of trouble least 5 times.. plus its also helped a few ppl out.. tho funny story when my skyline was off the road.. my other car got a flat battery and i was running late for an exam, got halfway there in a taxi before i remembered.. oh wait i own a jumper pack.. f*kker charged me 50$

i could be wrong but i remember reading in one of the magazine that that if you double the rpms you increase the load by 10 fold.. off the top of my head if you were spinning twice as quick, your pistons would be moving twice as fast, 4 times the energy with half as long to slow down, so thats probably 8 fold right there.. so from 7-8, thats roughly 50% increased load on the pistons n bearings.. but at 7300 thats only roughly 15% more.. if you take into consideration your forged pistons are probably slightly lighter than stock pistons, along with stronger bearings.. its probably a good compromise Jarrod

i have the 0.82 exhaust housing on the gt35r i quite like your idea there bubba.. i had a crank collar fitted on my car and my oil pump failed in a very strange way... the outside gear ended up in about 10 bits, i am hoping to rectify the problem with a better balance, harmonic balancer and a billet pump, i might have to check the clearance between the collar and the pump.. one of the engineers i took my pump to said it looked like there wasnt enough clearance axially for the gears. Jarrod

rb30 bottom end is hard to pass up, alot cheaper than stroking the rb25 and if anything stupid goes wrong the bottom end is alot easier to replace. Wont need such a large duration cam as youll have more torque earlier and wont need to revv as much... i find my gt35r is still a bit laggy for my liking on the 3litre, but heaps better than the 25.. a good 700rpm, if you can wait until the end of the year ill have mine rebuilt and back on the road.. can take you for a spin and see if you like it. Jarrod

check the timing with a timing light, also check all 6 spark plugs to make sure they are all firing and not wet with fuel.. Jarrod

doesnt the rb25 have 2x1.5mm restrictors standard tho? im running the 2x2mm standard rb30 ones atm.. and my heads swimming in oil , thinking of dropping down to 2x1.3mm

Been a while since i watched that clip.. haha at his standard injectors and coilpacks

not quite a 1000 rpm, my gt35r 0.82 was on 23psi at 4200 on my 25, and like 3550 25/30. its alot of time and effort putting it on the car only to find out your not happy with the laggggg, as ash mentioned you would have to spend alot on bolt on mods and even then youd need to forge the engine to use the turbo fully. The turbo is only a small part of the total expense required to get the car to that level, if i was going to spend that much i would make sure i was happy with the turbo choice. Jarrod

Well i was bored so i thought i would have another crack at possibly explaining your problem since no one has been able to chip in with some real world comparisons.. As you lower the pressure after the turbocharger, you will also lower the pressure before the turbocharger, as the exhaust gas pulses out of the engine, it has a high pressure leading edge, a lower pressure body and a much lower pressured tail. Although turbo cars have small overlap to deal with high backpressure with little turbos, there is still some overlap. With a small restrictive setup you often have exhaust gases contaminating the intake charge, as you remove all the exhaust restrictions you can often have the opposite happen. As your intake valve opens pressurised with the likely 30psi above atmospheric pressure your pumping into it, you'll likely be losing more fresh air and fuel from your intake charge into the now slightly lower than before pressured tail of the exhaust pulse. With there being left usable fresh air left in the combustion chamber your engine will be using the air pumped from the turbo slightly less effeciently, the compressor will likely be working slightly harder than before to maintain the same boost pressure, which was more than likely already flowing about as much air as it possibly could, offsetting the gains to be made from a less restrictive exhaust system. It would be interesting if you had logged the before and after exhaust and intake temperatures to see if there was any noticeable change to help explain what is happening, if you are losing fresh air and fuel into the exhaust, your exhaust temperatures will likely rise. maybe if you adjust your cams for less overlap, you should get some gains.. Jarrod

Hmmm its been a while since i have looked at some stock powered dynos but your car doesnt seem to much down on power considering the mods you have, i think the skylines come out with 135rwkw standard and you havent really got any power adding mods so your not doing to badly. You have an air pod.. but if its not set up properly so that its sucking in heat from the engine bay you often lose power, you have the least important part of your exhaust system so you cant expect too much gains from that and your last mod being the intercooler, which doesnt really add much if any power.. especially if your not running higher than standard boost. if your down on power its not much and would more than likely be the stock cat, personally i would stick on a full exhaust, you will really be surprised off the difference that makes Jarrod

Wow sky thats some awesome power, i always assumed you were ussing a 1.06.. was that on 98? were you using wmi or nos? I seen some dynos a while ago of people putting some rediculously big exhausts on some 2litre NA cars, i think they were upto about 4 inch in size, my memorys a little foggy but im pretty sure they were gaining power in the mid range to top end but lost power down low, which goes to show that the idea of backpressure is alot more complex than most people think, involving a few factors in the fluid dynamics of the air flow. Its more than likely due to the car needing retuning but i cant help but wonder if some of the power loss could be contributed to the greater change in the fluid velocity of the shorter exhaust, with fast moving exhaust gas hitting still air shortly after coming out of the engine, maybe a longer exhaust with few restrictions acts as a buffer in the transition between the fast moving air from the engine and the still moving air in the atmosphere, also as the velocity of the exhaust gas reduces as it cools along the exhaust pipe and contracts. Its probably not a issue when the car is actually moving as i would imagine the exhaust gas would flow out of the exhaust much easier, i doubt the fans they have there could simulate the air for of a car moving at a 100kmph. Tho my number plate gets a hell of a workout from them, id hate to see it when i was actually driving along on a highway. Jarrod

sorry to hear that my borrowed intercooler didnt solve your problem dude, i still feel you need a real turbo for response Have you had any change in the behaviour of the braking.. how do ur brakes feel compared to the other silver skyline?? Sorry to say the check valve stops boost entering the brake system so its unlikely to be your problem unless your check valve is broken. Generally if your car goes to stall when you press the brake your brake booster has a leak in the diaphragm. The brake booster has vacuum pressure on both sides of the diaphragm, when you press the brake pedal in, it lets in atmospheric air pressure into one side of the diaphraghm , the unbalance in the pressures gives you your brake boost. Maybe check your brake lines and get a vacuum tester and check the vacuum at the end of the brake line with the brake pedal both pressed and depressed.. id be keen to check mine as well as its one of the only few places i havent checked for my small air leaks. I think the engine would get a small amount of air from the brake system when the brake is released as the atmospheric air pressure side of the diagraghm gets repressured to vaccum. Apparently your car can also stall from a few other things in the brake system, like blocked lines, split hoses and a master cylinder leak.. but i dont really see how with my limited knowledge, hopefully an actual mechanic can give us some additional information.. i only learn these things as things on my car break and im looking for answers:P Jarrod

whats wrong with the current engine? depending on your definition of big power.. you probably dont need a forged engine. When you say you cant map it do you mean you cant tune it? which is why there is no mention of injectors and ecu? you wont need most of those mods if you cant tune it.. Jarrod

The difference is never as big as you'd expect, when i went from 285rwhp to around 440rwhp in my r33 gts-t i thought it would knock my socks off.. was rather disappointed, especially after all the hype you hear about 300rwkw cars. I suppose things never quite live up to the hype. I'm hoping the 500rwhp mark will be a little more exciting. Jarrod

the de head doesnt have the vct so it doesnt have the vct oil feed in the head that has to be blocked like the det head, it didnt take long or cost me much to get the head welded, took them maybe 5 mins to weld some metal in.. they let me die grind it abit, they smoothed it up, then the head got deck Jarrod

compare both gaskets with the rb25de head, you should be able to see what gasket works best for you. I used the rb30 gasket with a rb25det head, but i already had to modify the head to block the vct oil feed so i just added some meat on the head while i was at it, personally id make the modifications to the head so that if you ever needed to replace the block, it would be a lot easier Jarrod

I've always had to disable the power fc boost control function to get them to start without a boost controller kit fiited The off setting has 2 symbols, the first looks like a plus sign, the bottom bit curves off to the left. The second symbol is best described as a smiley face, almost looks like a semi-colon then a curved right bracket. What power fc model are you using?

just tee the 3 way fitting into the connection coming off the back of the plenum that the standard boost gauge uses. Generally the ebc solonoid is labelled with a in and out. The in is where it recieves its boost pressure which i usually tee in off the carbon canister line that is connected to the inlet plenum, the out is connected to the turbos actuator, if you post up some pics of your install id be happy to double check it Jarrod

whos that??

Ah i found the ones you were talking about on ebay, i had been searching for rb25det poncams so they werent coming up, they are at greenline for 900 including shipping, i may aswell wait for now and get them later on ebay Jarrod

So yous reckon just go the poncams? Greenline have them on special at the moment, which is making them look very attractive . What size exhaust valves would you recommend disco?? Crap it may be a little hard to with them all being ceramic coated =/ Jarrod

probably not, theres a very short list of descent tuners where i am located, i will definately never be leaving my car alone with a tuner again though. Just noticed that one of the tips on one of the spark plugs actually melted into a ball-like shape, so they definately must of had some heat put through them. Jarrod

I'm probably not going to worry about pursuing the matter any further, i have been speaking to the tuner and they do not want to accept responsibility for it, but have offered to find me a replacement block. I have worked out that there is about 1200$ worth of damage to the head, block and pistons not including the damage to the turbo. The head and pistons are getting lightly sanded and re-ceramic coated by the shop that originally coated them. With the oil pump failure i was already looking at replacing the bearings, crank, oil pump and possibly get lewis engines to re do the honing and balancing and replace the rings and install some cams and valve springs, so of the roughly 5k i was already going to be spending i will be looking at roughly an extra 1500 tops as long as i don't find any more damage, i don't feel its worth the hassle of going to small claims and putting everyone out of place over 1200-1500 for something i cant be 100% sure that it was their fault however probable.. yes it sucks but i suppose thats life. Plus the solicitor will probably cost me more than that anyway. As for the incidence i have done alot of ringing around, i spoke to a NGK specialist and was told they fail 99.9% of the time from people over torquing them and that there is no way to determine what caused them to fail. I can say i 100% dont over torque my spark plugs as i always grip the ratchet directly over the spark plug and do them up about a fraction of a turn from hand tight, i change them every 4000kms, to have 5 break at once whilst never changing the method is very in probable to say the least. Is it at all possible that when the spark plugs fouled up that the engine may of become flooded and cracked them from increased pressure due to fuel?? You would think if they were to crack then that the ceramic insulator would of fell apart then aswell.. as i said though you can never really be 100% sure with anything =/ Kind Regards Jarrod

i think its because the BKR's are v notched and are meant to produce a bigger spark

i had my rb25 gt35r upto 27psi and wasnt maxing out the z32, i have also had my rb25/30 combo upto around 23psi without maxing it out either, i have heard of the cheaper fake z32 afms to max out at alot less power than the genuine ones.