GTR-Ben

I am heading over to Sydney in a couple of weeks so might have a look then for the kit. No one has them here..

He said it feels like plasitic.. people have also mentioned that their cars also have a plastic cover. I think he could tell if it was a bit of left over tape or paper..

No Jaycars carry the KC-5465 The NZ and AU sites both do not list it also but it's in the new catalogue.. Anyone have a jaycar close by in Aus?

http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_110145/article.html Thats the one.

Thanks, had a feeling you were just making general comments. I genuinely want this setup to work, just a personal mission I don't have the lift pump voltage being controlled currently. It's a standard GTR pump, with small wiring, supplying the surge tank. Not as worried about that pump pumping fuel but I can see what your getting at. Looking at it now, I think changing the voltage is the wrong way to go about this due to current changes etc. If a high current motor speed controller can achive what I would like to do with "fixed-frequency pulse-width-modulation" then that would be great. The pump could then ramp up to speed with load. The current does not change so thats cool. Any thoughts. also.. how come the standard GTR pump which is just a bosch in tank pump.. that still flows a ton of fuel can run via the control module at 7 and 9V.. yet this one can't?

No idea what your on about there Syndeykid, and I feel quite offended you would accuse me of doing this for bragging rights. Either that or you did not read my whole thread (which is a common thing for people making stupid replys). No idea what wanting to control my fuel pump has to do with looking at a fuel pressure gauge.. The way the system is also wired means that if a relay or one of the control systems happens to fail.. the pump stops. R32 GTR's came out factory with the system.. you think Nissan would bring out something bad in a $100,000 car. I asked a long time ago many questions about voltage control systems. As per any forum people are always quick to post up dribble on things they read in another post but when it comes to a question about something that might take some thinking or expertise.. there is nothing. My fuel system is not "over the top" it's a simple lift pump with a surge tank and external pump, I just want a simple system to control the pumps output varying on AFM or similar input. If I listened to every negative person telling me what I can't do with this kind of thing.. I wouldn't even have built my car.. Many industries have pumps that they need to control the output on, pulsing voltage to the pump should slow it down for the same current input, lowering flow and noise. Thanks for people's 2c about why you think it's bad or telling me how your system works.. but unless you have some knowledge in pumps, voltage etc.. then you're not really helping. There are literally 1000 threads on putting a bigger wires to your pump and letting it scream..

Some welder made it, looks like the muppet above I am going to try a different method with a high current voltage control system. Which Jay Car do a kit for also. Really like the idea of controlling the output of the pump and I am not giving up!

Thanks mate. It has some aftermarket dampers.. nothing amazing but no problems with weight. Ballbearing Garret turbo. rated for 600HP or so. very responsive.. Remove all that Hicas junk then! bit of weight with all that.

This is her.

This is basically how it's wired. STR8E180: Skylines have the same space underneath.. just they have a hicas pump in that place. And who needs hicas anyway? I think it's Hicas... Widebody S13 with a RB30/RB26 in it. nearly 5 years work

I have probably read every thread on this board mate I like the tank under the car, would not have it any other way.. and I wanted a varying voltage signal to my external pump so it's not pumping 800hp worth of fuel between the rail and surge tank on idle.. and for the noise. Im confident at the 9V setting on the module the pump will work, remembering as soon as the car fires up and vacuum is applied to the regulator pressure is released as well as the battery will supply more voltage once the alternator starts working. The 7v feed may yet even work with the car running.. I ran out of time testing it in the weekend

It is a volt thing. I can change the settings on my voltage switch and ground it to supply battery voltage and it goes fine. So the wiring is all working, just not enough voltage. Its regulated via a stock GTR voltage control module. These control 7, 9 and battery voltage via ground. As for increased current etc etc. It didn't seem hot even when it wasn't pumping but on.. I am no expert with the I=V/R and power output etc.. I guess because the pump is going slower it requires less amps.. so it won't get hot? If it was a problem, why would this system come out factory in a GTR?

Cheers Yep RB30 in a Silvia. Have a GTR lift pump in the tank. Overkill but I already had it in there.. The External pump was the one that stopped though Hope the Bosch Pump can run at a lower voltage.. took a bit of work setting it up.

I think dipping into 11's on stock ceramics is pushing it though. Wasn't long after this one spat on of the wheels I guess in 2WD on slicks with a stripped car etc etc you could do low 11's maybe even 10s.

Only have pics of the tank etc setup under the car. The relays and wires are not that interesting 5 relays and a lot of wiring.. will be annoying if I can't use it..

Best I've got from stock Ceramics was 11.6 If N1's are like 2530's then low 10's

Front face plenum, lower the mounts as discussed in this "small" thread, move the power steering lines if needed, put a small love bump in the factory bonnet or get a aftermarket one. Price.. depends how far you go.. I started mine at the start of this thread and I am only just now doing the final touches now.

Ok so I wired it all up. The pump primed and then stopped Does not like trying to pump 50psi with only 7V behind it. Going to try upping it to 9V. It was pretty quite while it ran though..

I think that small plug goes up above the glove box or similar. For a light or something. Was your Skyline an Automatic? It will be the auto connector plug if it was.

Maybe the control module burnt out or similar? Not sure why the earth wire is sheilded, but I has something to do with the way the module drops the voltage by dumping some of the current to ground. The module it's self is grounded to the body of the car and this is where it dumps the excess.. maybe it has came loose and it not gounding correctly? I think it's a handy thing to have.. I don't see why you would want to bypass it making the fuel pump run full noise at idle and low RPM. For my car I have added a relay that bypassed the module and grounded it with a large wire when the AFM sees over 2.5V. For the rest of the time it's running through the module with low voltage.

Sounds like you have a leak or blown a gasket or something.. Good (well not for them) to see more people have seen the GTR ceramic turbo can damage you engine when it blows up. A few years back.. people didn't believe me

Hey guys, I have mounted my 044 under the car with a surge tank (hate the smell and noise inside the car) and I have got a fuel pump control module from a GTR to drop the voltage to the pump at idle. I plan on using the lower idle 7V supply when my AFM output is under 2.5V, will this be ok for the Bosch pump? I guessed since it was ok for the stock GTR pump to run at this voltage then the 044 should to? The extra current won't heat it up if there is any? Thanks Sydneykid for the J Car voltage switch idea using this to switch to earth and supply battery voltage since the Powerfc does not have outputs to the control module i'm told.

My RB30 S13 seems to have average traction even at it's current tune of only around 250hp.. the torque and power delivery is what effects this I think. Moving in 3rd the other day it started to spin, and this was not a fast change from 2nd-3rd. I have semi hard adjustable suspension, 0 camber. Tires are not too flash Just a bit concerned what it will be like once it's at double the power..

Also, does anyone know if supplying less than 12V (say 7-9V) to a Bosch 044 will cause any problems?

Also, does anyone know if supplying less than 12V (say 7-9V) to a Bosch 040 will cause any problems?