GTR-Ben

I have a couple of GTR resistor packs lying around, i'm in NZ though It's as simple as installing the resistor pack, supplying it with constant 12V to the black wire then from your GTS-T injectors running the positive wire from each injector to each of the 6 white wires on the resistor..

Yeah the GTR box has a flange.. simply get the length right and cut and weld.

Yep I have done it alright. It was a tight fit into my S13.. and I have yet to do the cross member and tailshaft. Those are the simple parts though. Basically you need to open it up, remove all the gears and chain etc so you are left with a straight shaft, put the speedo drive back on. Then weld an alloy plate on the side. I just welded the complete transfer case up.. as the bearing press outwards there is no real need to get in there once it's sealed up. You need to block the chain oil feed in the middle of the shaft as well as leave the oil pump there so it can supply oil to the rear bearing.. The cleanest way would be to make a new section so you can bolt it up and seal etc.. I did it the fast way as a test. If it starts to leak etc I know it fits now so I can re do it if needed. The GTR's gearbox mount is quite different to the GTS-T etc.. but I am thinking a combination of the 2 would almost bolt up. The GTR box is also longer and I will be using a one piece tailshaft. Making tailshafts fit is as easy as cutting and welding then balancing.. My photo's are not so flash.. will get some more.

I know a lot of cars not running the inner guards.. with wide body kits etc. Stone etc dont dent the guards.. but you need to make sure the wiring is sealed well and there are no holes the enter the inside of the car... the water flicking off the wheels gets in even the smallest hole.

Cutting the wire will make the car highly dangerous.. as the wheels just float there moving around.

Edit: that looks like the dash part of the loom? Is that Skyline or Silvia. Shouldn't need to remove that for the conversion unless you want to use the RB cluster.. Those plugs are listed on the RB20/RB26 wiring diagram. They both share similar colours however.. Blue/black for water temp gauge black/pink for fuel pump yellow/green for speed red/yellow for tacho. Think these are right.. or close To find the right plug of the two, check continiuity between the temp sender (single blue/black wire) in the engine bay and the blue/black wire under the dash. All the wires under the dash should be the same colour on the Silvia as the RB. The only wire not there is the fuel pump black/pink. The Black/pink wire on the Silvia is in the engine bay. I think you need to run power to your O2 sensors etc also.

It doesn't look as tidy thought does it?

Yep I just had beads welded on the end of the pipes. Works a treat. Doing what SK said would be best.. but I didn't know anyone with that kind of tool

Hey thats a brillant idea sk! If you want to remove the hicas part though, you can just remove the rear housing and machine the shaft down, then bolt it back up. Easy

I did all my own piping on my car, 3" alloy. I bought about 3 90º bends as it was sold cheaper like this. Then cut it up to fit. Cost me around $300 all up including samco and stainless clamps. Paid a good welder to join it all up etc. A lot of work involved with the cutting and fitting etc as I couldn't get all my bends made one piece being quite tight. Not the most fun job in the world, but worth it in the end

Never had them leak on any GTR.. even running big boost. I have had name brand, HKS and Blitz ones leak however.

I believe the guys over here in NZ are using Nitrous off the line to stop the car bogging..

If you can afford it, hell yes. It's all a very nice kit. Try for a OS 3L and OS sequential though The OS kit is far stronger and has been known to last a long time with over 1000HP.. thats pretty impressive if you ask me. GTR32: Robs 10s GTS-4 only ran a stock RB25DE head.. also a stock GTR gearbox.. which has held it back from 9's.

I had the honour of popping the OS box in this car also.. was hoping I would have been the first to get some 10's out of it. It has done numerous low 10s runs since.. street trim. Low Mount 2530's. :wassup:

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe the knock sensors do nothing but give a number when connected to a PowerFC.. as unlike the stock ECU the PowerFC does not remove timing etc if it sees knock.. It says this in the manual, also I think says anything under 60 is normally safe.

http://www.apexi.com/pdfInstallation/21.pdf

For a bleed valve this is probably the case, for a good EBC.. this should not be a problem. With an EBC the settings are changed from what the engine sees as this is where the gauge part is plumbed, so it really matters not what the wastegate sees as long as it gets a fast responsive signal. I would rather a spike cause underboosting than overboosting also. With the signal taken futher down the track, with a long pipe to the gate.. the spike will cause a boost spike (bad) But with a good EBC none of that should happen. otto.. I think the main difference is to do with the boost control systems on the GTR and R33 etc as it is a basic bleed valve in a way. Just throwing ideas around here as I recently had the same ideas from both sides of this discussion.. I then looked at the apexi installation for external wastegate, and decided to go with this.. it made sense to me and they probably know best for their product.. I have never had any spikes or problems running either way though to be honest..

From the apexi AVC-R manual... gauge at plenum wastegate close to turbo.

Why does it matter what pressure the wastegate is seeing compared to the engine? Thats why you have the gauge tapped closest to the engine so you can adjust with that. Why do aftermarket Electronic boost controllers have a seperate sensor for the guage..? The wastegate needs good response.. so taking it as close to the turbo as possible would make sense to me? Why alse would factory wastegates get there pressure from right off the turbo compressor housing? I may be wrong here.. it is probably not too major where you take the pressure from. Seems to work well either way.. ? Stock GTS-T takes it from the turbo compressor. Stock GTR takes it from after the throttles..

Would have to be a pretty big leak for it to make 0psi on full load.. and you would certainly hear it. I have had intercooler pipe leaks on GTR's before, even small ones made a large sound but I only lost a small amount of boost. The turbo's just worked harder. You would also be very unlucky for both turbo's to fail at the same time.. very! You must have a whole intercooler pipe off.. I would take the front bar off and have a really good look.

Could you do me a favour and take some photo's of the front swaybar fitted and how close to the sump it gets etc. Would really appreciate it.

Transfer may leak as you can't pull the box out with the stick still in.. when the engine is tilded back the oil may pour out the gear stick hole. For the rear plunger, i have a spare one to bolt in its place with the hole blocked. Front diff leaks a little when the drivers side shaft is removed so you normally drain the front diff. Sounds like it would make life a lot easier if you pull the engine out a lot.. I don't like cutting cars up though and it does not take too long to do it the normal way.

The original message is over a year old on the post? Maybe thats the reason some people got confused...

I traded my Jun oil pump for a stock R32 pump + cash.. figured I didn't need to be too over kill..