GTR-Ben

You do know they have different bore sizes right?

I have had several cars make good power and times on stock pistons/rods, so I am a pretty confident in the stock Nissan stuff. Normally when they have failed due to detonation or something it has been a ring land which has done little to no bore damage. Just slapped a new piston in

Hmm I maybe wrong... but why even with the 2WD fuse out does the R33 keep preload on the clutches? The Hydraulic system still under pressure?

Yeah I know, but for the average person to go out, buy a HKS ETS Controller and pay to have it installed.

He said he wanted to drive the "Rear Wheels" only. Not, "I want to go and spend a few thousand to be able to adjust my 4WD torque split" Ofcourse it's always better to have full adjustablilty at your finger tips.. but maybe he just wants to do a burnout?

The pre-load is caused by the return spring. The R33 has a shorter spring and always has a little tension on the clutch pack. You can simply install a R32 spring to fix this.. I think thats how it is... might be the other way around.. i forget. Photo of the spring.

You don't need an HKS anything to make a GTR 2WD.. there is a simple fuse under the kick panel. You will wear out the clutch packs however in an R33 GTR due to them having a pre-loaded clutch pack. You need to mod them if you want to run 2WD.. simple spring. But they will respond like an R32's 4WD system and you have to pull the whole transfer case apart to do it.

SR20DET redtops making 300rwkw+... well most of the Big HP SR20DET's are Red top, due to having bigger ports etc. There is a datto here with a red top making 700HP or so, doing low 8's. The title was RB20DET vs SR20DET.. not stating year etc. Obviouslly the SR20DET wins in the 2L vs 2L comparison.

I have had a similar problem, had 4 BOVs hooked up on one of our cars.. 2 stock, 2 HKS crappers. The car just didn't have the pull, and there was a leaking sound. We first blocked up the 2 stock ones, nope didn't fix it. Then we blocked up the 2 HKS BOV's.. and it was like a new car. Went from doing high 13's to doing high 11's Could quite possibly be the HKS ones..

All good, it's done now. Looked like it worked ok. Won't know until I drop the engine back in.

R33 and R34 cranks have the longer collar to run the oil pump as the R32 cranks had a thin one that can cause the pump to fail. You can add the collar to them. I don't think there is any strength differences, if there are it's minor. They can all be used in any RB26. New from Nissan here, the last one was around $2500-$3000 ( I don't recallexactly how much we paid now ..) They are R34 GTR cranks, ex Japan. Got it in 1 week. Second hand cranks go from $100-$1500. Quite often when bearings run the crank goes beyond tolerances.. and is no good unless you use different bearings, which is a bad idea. A good second hand one with no wear would be worth over $1000. The main thing to look for is worn thrusts and cracks.

$500 had a slight "hole" in the transfer case already. And the cool thing is.. if I wanted to I could bolt my 2WD welded transfer case onto one of the OS or Trust boxes and bolt it in.

I have just cut the side off an RB26 box and welded it up.. the RB26 box is still longer and may require a little tap under the tunnel to fit. Quite hard to weld it up.. would require good fab skills and time to make it work well.. I basically closed the whole transfer case part up.. also need to check for leaks etc before using it. I believe you can also bolt on an Z32 nose cone.. but you would need to sort the shifting mechanism... as the Z32 uses arms.

I will have to say SR20. The S15 Blacktop SR20DET engine is amazing, the responce and torque delivery is a lot better than the RB20DET (but there is a very large age gap there, and huge price difference) On Sunday I was talking to a driver of an S13 Circuit car. And he went on to tell me he thinks the SR20DET (his was a old redtop, he said very little internal mods) was better than any RB motor for lasting power for a circuit car.. He said he was making 700 crank HP and that to have a car with an RB setup like his car would never go as good.. but he said it was more the torque which he liked. I don't recall the figure.. but it was A LOT of torque for a 2L 4cyl.. His dad however told my friend that this car would only last 5 meets.. i think an RB26 making 700HP would last a hell of a lot longer.. He was from the deep south.. so probably a bit backwards What are some of you circuit racers opinions?

Would like to see then in a day or so then

My friend gets this trouble in his S13 at times.. under full throttle and only sometimes. With the Boost Controller off (EVC III) it doesn't do it.. odd

Cool. I am doing mine this weekend. Looks simple. I am using the RB30 mounts.

Well unless it's one massive pleenum it's only going to hit the clutch booster (GTR) in which case just remove it.. Moving the brake booster would not be easy.. it would be a lot easier to remove it... but it wouldn't be much fun around town..

BlackR32, it doesn't look like your mounts are modded? Am I missing something or did you just post pics of them bolted in the stock position?

Is the car lowered? If so fixing the rear camber can help with times a lot.

EVC 4 Pro.. although I can not find the english instructions anywhere.. which makes them useless to me. I have a Power FC and a seperate AVC-R.

Globe trotter! I bet he charges a pretty penny now then if he is in such demand.

Posting it for a friend. S15 SR20DET engine. GTR Intercooler 12psi Filter. Needs the rear camber fixed and 12's should be very possible with a little more boost.

They have good potential. We just finished an S15 SR20DET swap into an S13. With Filter, Exhaust, Cooler and 12psi its doing 13.2 @ 107 with 2.1 60ft. I think you could get a better MPH out of yours.