GTR-Ben

If you stall the car but keep on rolling and say drop the clutch, the car will then go into 2WD mode (the ABS and 4WD light will come on). As soon as you stop moving it should go back to 4WD. Sounds like you have another problem though, wiring or computer.

Well does the Arc sump go forward much? or just down.. It may get close, a A31 bar would be better if thats the case. The rear swaybars are fairly universal with RWD nissans.. A31, Skyline S13 all fit each other. S14/S15 is slightly different. If some of you could call Whiteline or email them and ask about swaybars for A31 Cefiro's.. they may just make my one for me. I sent them a prototype to copy. Wanted a 27mm Adjustable one. Said I needed to order 10 to have them made

If the Cefiro has a RB motor a S13 front swaybar won't fit.. it will hit the sump. I tried to get Whiteline to make me a A31 Front swaybar.. no go. Maybe if a few more people asked for one they would be more helpful?

Thats what I though.. it has to be an electrical problem they way it's off an on.. and also has to be the control unit. Hope it's something that can be fixed easily.. strange that you get the exact same problem..

I went over to repco here and they can get them.. were quite cheap from memory at trade price.

I would like an answer to this also.. I have a feeling it's an EVC problem though and not an engine problem. We have the exact same thing happening.. EVC III on a SR20DET engine. Controller off it's fine. With it on, it does the surging thing as you described.. but it doesn't always do it, and we can't seem to see what causes it to start except being completely random. It is a really annoying problem.. I have never had it happen before and I have used quite a few HKS Boost Controllers.

It's odd.. I have pulled out 2 pumps both from GTR's making 400rwkw.. the pumps looked stock. Maybe they were replaced in Japan with an aftermarket pump that looks exactly like stock?

I have quite a thin long oil cooler, so mounting it up the top in front of the radiator is ok in my opinion as it is not actually behind the air flow from the intercooler as it sits lower.. pure air from the front grill. Had a GTR with a ARC oil cooler that mounted where the front grill sits also, it worked very well

In front of the radiator and up the top so air from the grill gets to it and is not resticted by the intercooler. If it fits..

I thought the lifting of the throttle when the turbo popped was the reason it was sucking back also... but think about it. Human reactions are just not that fast, by the time you heard that noise how many times would the turbo have spun.. We had tried this theory and kept the foot down when we had a turbo blow.. made no difference. 3 cylinders completely scored and ceramic in the oil system etc.. I have seen it happen to at least 6 GTR's though and a couple of GTS-T's.. It is still very rare.. maybe down here there are more people on a budget trying to push there stock GTR's as hard as they can and thats why we see more blown stockers? (11.6 with stock turbos and fuel system ) As someone else said though, the exhaust pulses, and being split this is made worse. The time is only very small.. but i'm sure if someone really good a physics worked out all that was going on in there at the time (had to get the data as testing would be hard) The turbo is obviously spinning at many times faster than the engine is turning over.. the explosion from the exhaust wheel must be very powerful is my only guess. I wish I had more proof or an explanation instead of looking like a madman who makes up myth's. I will take some detailed photo's next time.. some might try and say it was really bad detonation in 3 cylinders, as some engine builders have said. haha.

Why would you even be driving it if you thought it had blown a turbo wheel off? They actually do still produce boost pressure with only one turbo working, it's just very low as it is leaking boost ( a lot) but because the gap where the air excapes around the blown turbo compressor wheel is so small, it can still build some pressure. Quite often (and I know not too many people have experience with this) a blown ceramic turbo will actually kill your entire engine.

Seemed normal to me in all GTR's I have owned or Driven.. when really nailing them my leg would get really quite hot being close to the tunnel.

Really hard to tell whats going on in those pictures.. but here goes. A. This would go to a the gauge, normally a smaller fitting on the unit. B. One side should go onto the back of the pleenum for pressure. Another pipe down there should be blocked off. Then onto the unit for IN pressure. The other side then goes to OUT and should go to the wastegates. This can be checked with an air gun or similar. C. Thats your fuel IN line.. don't hook that up to anything , better leave that one. D. I would say thats the purge line. If you blow into it, air should come out the filter..

Won't cause any problems that I have seen. The tailshaft uni joints are on angles, a little more won't matter. The exhaust is not solid mounted.. so that won't be affected. I have my RB30 mounted in my S13 with it lowered 15mm, and I just fitted an RB26DETT box that I have modified. I will be running a one piece tailshaft. All fits quite nice considering.. (only a little hammering )

R32 GTR and GTS-T radiators are the same dimensions...

From what I was told, the R34 Getrag has a different Bellhousing.. seems odd since it's bolted to an RB26DETT though.

Send one down to NZ,

The reason that make it easier to break gearboxes is because the shortshifter not only makes the throw less, it also makes the room for error less when going from 2nd to 3rd etc.. So now, not only are you pulling the gearstick faster, you have to pull it harder as the stick is shorter, you also need to be more accurate.. this combination makes it a lot easier to miss a gear. In my case, I think I just changed to fast for the syncros which blew the box..

I have had a good short shift kit on a GTR. It did make the gear stick movement less.. but I hated it. It made the gears a lot harded to hit or miss.. I blame it for me destroying a good OS Giken box With a stock gearstick.. it works and feels good.

I know that, but I like the idea of the genuine thing

They really need to make an english version.. they would sell a lot more.

My brother had just rebuilt his GTR and he got a death rattle after a big launch.. had only done a few thousand k's. This was a really loud BANGING sounded like bottom end.. Turned out a couple of the valve guides had broken loose and wedged into the pistons and were banging on the head, a lot cheaper than a new crank + bearings + all the bottom end work You might be lucky.. hope you didn't drive it too far when it started making the noise.

Link have just brought out a few new products including a new ECU. I know a lot of people using it as well as a few people who work for Link. Like any ECU it's all about the tuner. I have had bad luck with previous LINK computers and bad tuners.. and good luck with PowerFC and it working from just being plugged in. If you have a good tuner that likes LINK, then it will work fine. Might be worth trying out LINKs new products.

There are a few wires that need to be run from the ECU side of the Car to the engine bay loom. The injectors need power. Window wipers need re-wiring also to work SK, the R32 has a voltage switch on the fuel pump also doesn't it? I never installed another relay for the fuel pump.. just hooked it up. Not probs.

Mostly wiring and plumbing is the only hard bits.