GTR-Ben

Tight fit.. could get a GTR badge or something sewed on

If they have a drum setup there is a bung on the outside of your brake disc, you pop that off. Wind the little screw thing in there with the handbrake off. Keep going until the brake locks. Then wind it back the other way a litte. This should make it as tight as possible

I think it was still done like you said. A spacer and a Master Cylinder from a R33 Skyline. I think you said to use a Silvia one?

Motec M8 ECU. I'm sure Dicky is still writing up the novel to reply to the mods this has... If it doesn't make the power he wants, there is always the Nos foggers there to help her on the way.. Meanest GTR I have ever heard. And I havn't heard it on boost yet. Street car too. lol More pics here for those interested. http://skeleton.net.nz/~ben/Other%20Parts/Engine/

I made a post a while ago about running the AFM inline as well as increasing the ID of the pipe the AFM is installed into to allow more power before maxing out etc.. I got no responce.. I will be trying this on my own setup though. The AFM probe is simply O-ringed into the pipe. I think if I run a single GTS-T 80mm AFM inside a 4" pipe, this will have the same flow as 2 x 3" pipes, saving a lot of space e.g a 80mm GTS-T afm in a 4" pipe should in theory allow 453rwkw. I'm not sure how this would effect the resolution however. I was hoping an expert could shed some light.. Seems like a lot easier and cheaper way to do things if it works. I know of a few cars running AFM's inline on the pressure side of the piping. Normally after the Intercooler.

GTR pump + Apexi 600cc. Will upgrade to another external 044 or similar later.

Change to leads?

Tell your Mech to download the GTR manual Tells you all the torque settings.. I normally reuse the head bolts and rod bolts. Maybe after a few rebuilds I would replace them, but never had any fail or cause any problems being reused... Saying that, if you have the money to throw around, why not get new ones.

I am going to try modifying the mounting points as I know Whiteline won't make me one..

Import a wrecked R32 GTR for parts. Then you get Engine, loom, Ecu, brakes, diff etc etc.. Things add up fast though.. i know mine has and I am not finished yet.

Well I know of a 180SX with GTR engine and sump.. and the SR20 front swaybar hit the sump.. In my car, the CA18 swaybar seemed to come very close until I lowered the engine 15mm and then it would hit. Thats an S13 with RB30DET and RB30E sump.

I think you were looking at the feed for the blow off valves where they vent back into the intake.

Ok we have been having a discussion on SDU about AFM's, inline, increasing the ID etc to change the amount of power they can handle. I thought I would make a post here and get some other opinions. Basically for my RB30 being in a S13.. I would like to save some space. My turbo has a single 4" opening, and I am running a Power FC so need to keep the AFM's. Now instead of running two RB26 or Rb25 AFm's as a stock setup I wanted to consider running a single AFM in a single pipe, but double the physical ID so the overall flow would be the same as if there were 2 AFM's. Then wire it so both AFM wire get the same signal to the PowerFC. The ID of a RB25 AFM of 76mm when the area is doubled would come out close to 4" the same size as my turbo inlet.. which makes life easy. I have a feeling, that by installing the air flow meter probe into a pipe that has double the surface area.. this may mess things up. First of all the lower air speed effecting idle tuning? Will the resolution be halfed or doubled? Now I know there are cars running fine with AFM's Post intercooler pre throttle body. But these keep the original ID. Any one have any more "physics" related answers.. or have actaully tried this? Thx

10psi... wow it's going to rip the needle of when you turn the key Check stock fuel pressure. Remove stock FPR, install new one where old one was, start with stock fuel pressure. Go to a dyno. If you leave the stock on there.. you can only increse fuel pressure. In some cases you buy an aftermarket one to learn your car off.

Oh what great fun it is to remove the turbo's on a GTR with the engine in the car. I think I have done it so many times that I have it down to a fine art. I can get them all off pretty fast now. As others have stated, get some cheap spanners etc and customize them. bend, weld etc. A bent spanner with a socket welded on is useful. Getting to the manifold bolts I drop the turbo enough so I can fit a 1/4 drive extension through the gap and put a 1/4 drive socket on the nut. It's fiddly... but works

Some funny ideas in this thread. For a start an Rb30 Revving to 8000+ rpm would be like taking a RB26 to a hell of a lot more, which they need good mods to do. The cradles look pretty similar to me?...

R32 GTR and GTS-T rads are the same, so yes it will bolt straight in.

Thanks Riverside. Well I know for a fact with my engine the Stock S13 bar doesn't fit with my RB engine lowered etc. The sump was resting on the bar when I installed the engine.. Maybe you have the SR20 Whiteline bar and it allows more clearance. Whiteline do supply a CA and SR S13 bar.

Riverside, I just looked at the other post and noted you have a RB motor. Hmm, odd. Maybe the whiteline bars clear a little more, maybe the aussie Cefiro's are slightly different.. who knows. My engine is also lowered 15mm so this doesn't help. I may have another loook with the Whiteline bar. (I have a whiteline CA18 27mm adjustable front bar) maybe this is the problem. How different are the SR20 bars? Maybe this is the problem I am having? If you have fitted a SR20 Whiteline bar to your A31 with RB motor and it fits though, I will take your work for it

Riverside.. they are not exactly the same.. and a S13 silvia bar will not fit a S13 with an RB motor.. thats where the problem is. The sump hits. With a 4 cyl motor, no problems at all! I have pictures showing the difference if you really want me to upload them all etc. The A31 bar from a 6 Cyl powered car has a much larger portion at the front to clear the sump. I hope this is clear? If someone could demo there A31 (WITH A RB MOTOR) for whiteline I would be very happy. They probably still have my spare A31 Swaybar and links.. if they havn't throw it out. If someone is sorting something out, give me an email. [email protected] Thanks, Ben

I think you can buy something to correct that problem that wires into the AFm and I believe PowerFc's have this built in so running Atmo BOV's will not effect them.

Maybe different in NZ.. I can pickup a R32 GTR box for under $1000. A 25T box is $1500-$2000. The box I am running in my Silvia was a RB26 box that had been in an accident and had a hole in the transfer case... so I got it even cheaper. Just had to cut the side off it and weld it up.

Correct, but I have found the GTR boxes to be a lot cheaper and easier to get..

People with big power SR's quite often run a RB25DET box with a modified bellhousing. A GTR gearbox with the transfer case "removed" will fit into the S14 tunnel with only slight mods.

Probably almost faster to pull the motor out.. They are usually all corroded and really hard to pull off even with the motor out.