GTR-Ben

Well more the fact that he was talking about a stock high flowed turbo. Not a GT35/40 or similar like you would expect.

Well thats a pretty amazing power number looking at that turbo at 15.2psi.

Read again mate.. "Having the high-flowed stock turbo was always questionable, but even more than before the conversion, it spools up so quick and holds 18 psi efficiently" He said he got 300kw at 18psi on the high-flowed stock turbo ...

Yeah that would normally cause a leak. Seen that happen quite a lot.

With a RB26 ECU it does because it is use to 2 inputs of 1/2 the flow.. It can be complicated to wrap your head around... but a 4" pipe is basically double the stock 3" RB20 AFM surface area.. It runs good.. just hoping it can be tuned ok.. I have seen a single probe post intercooler in a 3" pipe for a GTR.. so may try that one if this is too corse.

So opposite to that.. using my RB26DETT PowerFC, and a single turbo. Will my single RB20AFM in a 4" pipe with the signal split to the ECU (so it will half what it sees) going to be tunable enough? Or have I got it wrong somewhere..

My friend had the same problem, it was a wiring problem due to a motor swap though. FC was not getting enough power.

Great I can't find my DV cable.. Will put the vid up as soon as I do..

I will make a small vid this weekend just for you mate It only has a drop pipe off the turbo at the moment so it's plenty loud. I made a small mistake off running it without my powersteering lines etc. (no fluid) So my custom made pump kind of stopped. I was looking at my friend.. and said "oh yeah.. the powersteering belt is still hooked up......." BAM! motor stops. haha. So now all I need to do is hook up my front brake pipes, clutch pipe, power steering and a few other small things and it will actually be drivable. I have some wheel coming from Japan.. so as soon as they are here the wide body kit I have had sitting in the roof for a year or more will be attached. Finally getting close fella's! :lol:

I hope my wee girl can make some good numbers.. I don't think a turbo much larger would fit under the bonnet lol.

I got rid of my RB26DETT box setup.. (crossmember was not going to be tidy like I wanted) and I have a RB25DET box in the car now. It's all running. I havn't plumbed my AFM up correctly yet (running 1 AFM in a double sized pipe with 2 outputs to the ECU). With an AFM just sitting by the turbo, no tuning and no cold idle or idle adjustment parts... it sits there idleing at 800RPM Sounds awesome! I don't recall my cam specs They are a minor upgrade over stock, like a stage 1. I have all the data on them beside me.. but I don't understand it at all. Two pages about the lift, durations etc..

I think you will need to use the RB30 gearbox supports.

I mean to trace what actually happens in the "explosion" of the exhaust wheel One reason some engine are not damaged might be the fact that sometimes the wheel just drops off.. and sits in the exhaust, while others have almost nothing left.

For my brothers RB30DET he got a RB26 Head for $1500. Happened to have some high performance HKS cams already fitted. score!

The ceramic contamination does seem to be completely random.. it would take some hard physics and experiments to prove it though I would say.. One example I remember is having a R32 GTR blow a rear turbo, did a check and all seemed fine! So a new turbo went on and it was taken for a test drive. The owner had hooked up the boost controller all wrong so the first time the car came onto boost it over boosted and POP!... another turbo wheel gone. This time the car had problems... yep 3 cylinders scored badly. We have had people blow a turbo and replace it and keep driving only to wonder why the car never seemed right.. Some cases are bad.. some only get a slight scoring some appear to have none at all. I love mystries

So does anyone actually know what Stock R34 GTR turbos are.. what about size wise compared to a R32 GTR. As for the sucking back of ceramic wheels.. haha. It does happen, not some myth started by workshops. It's not as simple as air in- air out. Air does go back from pulses. I have wrote about it plenty of times.. but it's something that would be almost impossible to prove unless you saw the engines I had seen when a turbo had let go. Perfect working engine.. turbo pops.. rear 3 cylinders scored beyond belief with ceramic dust everywhere.. Don't ask me why it happens to some and not others.. the exact cause is a mystry.

EVC III head units are specific to the solenoid (or so they say).. Throw that stolen item in the trash.

Here are some lovely drawings of the Pipe setup for stock and fitting a EBC on the plenum side

I have refitted the restrictor before.. no problem. Not sure what they mean. I don't know where the second one is fitted sorry.

Hmm this is possible.. with the stock restrictor in there and the solenoid removed it may not bleed enough out to cause unlimited boost.. it would be more than just having a pure pressure feed though. Thats a thought.

Wrong. You disconnect the stock solenoid and leave the pipes open it will FREE BOOST. It's simple. There is a T under the back of the plenum. It T's 1 to the wastegates, 1 to the solenoid. Now if the solenoid failed.. my guess would be it would stay closed which would give you stock boost. You remove the solenoid however you are now BLEEDING air from the wastegates, and we all know what you get when you bleed air away from them.. a boost increase. Now the other end of the solenoid simply bleeds air back to the intake pipe. (for emissions etc) To install a boost controller in the stock position, you need to block the pipe right at the rear of the plenum (the T), and run a new pipe from where it was connected to the plenum. This is the pressure feed. Now the stock line that goes to the solenoid has a direct connection to the wastegates (because you have blocked of the T into the plenum). This can be checked by putting some air down the line and hearing the wastegates open and close. You block the feed to the intake pipe. I think people need to get a engine up on a stand, follow all the pipes and make a drawing or something so they can understand how it's all linked.

Especially with a stock GTR which has pipes going everywhere.. The Solenoid - bleed - pleenum - wastegates etc.. can be confusing. I have had to re-plumb GTRs for so many people because they have messed it up when trying to install a bleed etc.

When the EVC is off (green screen) it should be running at stock boost (well the lowest the wastegate will allow). Maybe the wastegate needs to be adjusted for lower boost. And use the EVC to adjust it up from there.

Well he is keeping mechanics in a job..

No Pnblight i'm not on drugs... A tidy stock R32 GTR still fetches 30k over here. Modified ones go for less normally because they have been screwed. Yes thats true.. you can get some crazy modified GTR's from Japan now for next to nothing. Most of which will need a rebuild, full respray most parts replaced etc but for all the mods you get they seem cheap. Now if we take if from another angle.. import a 800HP R32 GTR (non compliable in NZ now) and swap all the gear into a cheap, road legal GTS-4. Thats got to be a cheap car thats very close to the original GTR. I have had Stock GTR's and modified them.. I have had cars I have built up from near nothing.. and I have had cars that have came in already doing 10's from Japan and driven them road legal. The fact is.. speed does not come cheap in any form, and there are always hidden costs. Hopefully this post has given the origal poster some ideas anyway.