SkyHi_33

haha my car had horrible braking first time round coz the fluid was all dirty and i got 98% average... it felt so unsafe to drive. pod filter will pass with brackets front mounts will pass if the reo hasn't been cut, they're not fussed about sheet metal bit as long as its neatly cut and rust proofed. (and even most of the time trimmed reo bars will pas as long as they aren't cut straight down the middle sorta thing) cat back is fine as long as its within legal noise.

team effort? were looking at over 1500kw vs what 300? haha.. cant wait for this

Ahhhhh i think i might know why, had to replace my battery not long ago to pass roadworthy... I'll check out the diagnostic feature though and see whats up. Thanks so much for this!!!

when you apply for a job, they tell you you've got it... TWICE, you organize time out of uni, miss lectures, skip homework to go through their induction meetings n bullshit in the end to be told "oh well there was no actual places for you but if someone doesn't show up then you can fill in" thanks for nothing... unprofessional bunch of wankers.

fk it, slap the supercharger on then add a snail into the mix.

Hi guys, I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the car up the power button light flashes 16 times. The button itself is always set in the middle, I don't bother with it. The car shifts fine and haven't had a problem with it except a couple times it wouldn't shift up until around 4-5,000 rpm when it was really cold. Anyone know what the flashing means? I'm taking it for a service and shift kit install soon but would like to know what the deal is before i do it. Cheers!

heres some instructions for ya, and remember, DO NOT come to a complete stop... you can stuff your pads, probably the reason why you had to go back 3 times.

As Allen explained, the stock (or OEM) rotors are made of fairly poor materials therefore by milling in to them (slotting them) you are reducing the life of the rotor and adding stress to them. When rotors stress they start cracking which is what you're experiencing here. I would suggest you save up a bit and buy yourself a set of RDA slotted rotors or better yet higher spec slotted rotors if you got the $$ to blow. RDA slotted rotors have been proven to work really well on skylines when matched with a decent pad and last a long time with very even wear. Fronts for an r33 (im assuming the r33 brakes mentioned have r33 rotors?) are around $440 for a pair Rears are somewhere around $200 So you're looking at $640ish for a good set of rotors that will last you ages with normal city driving and a bit of hard braking (hell, my old ones lasted a year and a half of track and spirited driving abuse day in day out) I suggest you save up and replace those as I cant see them lasting too much longer, not a great feeling when they completely crack.

call up Graham West Workshop and sort it out, or drive in, fill out the form and give em the $$. 668 Marion Rd PARK HOLME SA, 5043 (08) 8277 5688 and my misfire is sorted

regency will only approve of engineers certificates from a couple specific places, otherwise they can reject it. i cant remember which those are so ring em up and find out.

you still have my offer if you decide to go ahead with it... just let me know whenever

check pm

what kind of help? btw, i cant find any info on this, anyone here an automatic genius? basically my "power" button light for the automatic transmission flickers 16 times when i start the car up. doesn't happen all the time but it kept doing it last night, otherwise it shifts and drives fine??

fix it up, that's one mint car there n would be a shame to get rid of!!

welcome to the forums haven't been posting a lot but been lurking around the forums for years now, lots and lots of great information and great people on here. i remember my first turbo car, the moment it spools you're hooked , now upload some pics. hehe

WWWOOOOWWW that looks tough as!!!!

were you the bunch of people in front of the bp shop entrance? hahaha i recognized lukes 34, came past to buy some drinks and drove of... should have said hi but wasn't sure

standard ecu, standard coil packs, hybrid front mount, trust 3.5" cat back, in line boost controller @ 11psi on stock turbo, pod filter ive taken the coil packs out yesterday and insulated them with good quality electrical tape, the plugs were 1.1 but ive re-gaped them to .8 and they're only about 3,000km old. Will be getting some insulating silicone over the weekend for the coils as well as new .8mm plugs + get the afm cleaned up. hoping it will solve the issue. apart from that im looking in to a toshi remap or safc once i get the rest of the exhaust, injectors and fuel pump. cant be bothered with a whole new ecu as i'm not after much more power so don't really see the point in spending over 2k.

ive booked the car in for dyno day @ grahm wests today. the misfiring is not as bad anymore, drove the car to uni and back, then for another test run and seems ok. there's a split second of misfire but shouldn't be too much of a problem. Ill be getting the silicone insulator on the coils over the weekend and my afm cleaned up. when i get my exhaust done ill look in to getting a toshi map, or an safc... don't want to spend thousands if all i'm after is not too much more power than its already making. don't want the car for straight line speed, want response and a steady power band.

all paid for... time to spin some rollers cranked boost up to 11, wow what a difference. slight misfire gonna be a problem on the dyno? coil packs are a bit worn

haha yeah i thought the coil packs would be rooted after so many years in a very hot place. however in saying that ill give insulation silicone a go first. If it holds 10-11psi without misfiring ill be happy, saves me $500 till i really need it (i hope). not planning on going any higher than that for a while.

recommendations? full house (the car is auto sadly so pfc is off limits...) piggyback remap ??? note, i don't have a lot of money to play with atm saving up for paintjob.

fk fk fk, i got mass missfire!! halp! upped the boost to 11 today, stock turbo, hybrid front mount, 3.5" trust cat back, wrapped coil packs in insulation, re-gaped plugs to .8mm and get a few flat spots from 5 - 6.500 rpm. anything else i can do apart from new coil packs and ecu management? i was hoping it wouldn't be anywhere near as bad... think I might put off dump pipe and high flow cat till i get a piggyback or remap

extra spots eh.... mmm tempting

nothing wrong with 3 spokes, but you gotta have the right bodywork and paint to pull it off. back on topic, also wanted with split dump/front pipe for an rb25 is a high flow cat or a gutted one. pm me with what you got