jippa

hey guys, this has happened to me to.. ended up being my clutch packs and needed a rebuild which cost $2000.. dont waste money on a service if its slipping really bad, it will return to slipping in a few more months.. i know from experience . also if u do get a rebuild look at geting a shift kit or shift improver( milder than a stage 1 shift kit) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Au...=shift+improver link to shift kit thread. this is the first atempt at fixing my slipping. 1st and 3rd share the same clutchpack

hey guys, just want to check if im getting a good price on a nistune fitted and dynoed. ive got a price at 800 for both and i dont need to remove my ecu as it will all be done for me.. i think the tune side is going to cost 500, does this sound right for the first major tune? my mods are gcg highflow, amperformance dump pipe to metal cat to xforce cat back. sard fuel pump. splitfire coils, fmic and a apexi pod..

double poster

it is possible u have a sharp edge on the inside of your cooler making the whisstle.. my first aftermarket cooler (hybrid) made a whistle noise when i installed it, nothing to serious now on my second stagea and installed a monsta fmic of ebay and was expecting a whistle noise but she is smooth as.. not sure if that's your problem but its an idea, can anyone confirm my theory..

the best pod imo is the apexi because in the kit form it bolts straight on to your intake and has a bracket to hard mount it to something ( which makes it legal in good ol wa ). shure there not a good flow as the 3a but they have the funel which is ment to swirl the air for better intake... whith the pick of the pod on that stag, i wouldnt want to be driving it on a wet day. its begging to suck in some water http://cgi.ebay.com.au/APEXi-replacement-p...%3A1|240%3A1318 link to pod that will bolt straight on to your afm.. just got to make your own braket like http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-R33-R34-GTSt...%3A1|240%3A1318 im sure you get everything in the first on except the braket which u can easily make yourself and save a heap

did u send of your ecu and get them to fit the mod or did it youself? also did u need to buy anything else to get it to work. i found the website a bit confusing on what i needed

for the price this does seem to be the best option. in regards to tuning is it going to be easy enough for somene to use the nistune remap if there not familiar with the program? not shure if any tuners in perth have used them before

speed cut stops the factory ecu from limiting the car to 180kmh.. not that i would wana go that fast very often... boost cut will be a factor as i plan on running 14 to 15 psi but im shure it would be factored in to the tune.. yea i do have an s2 and was gong to go for the halltec e11 at a cost of 2500 fitted and tuned, this option seems way better

is that gona be the standard price [$305]? also is it gona include boost and speed cut? if so this is the path im going down as im nearly done with my mods.. slit dump pipe to cat(amperformance 1 of ebay) metal cat, 3 inch xforce cat back, fmic, sard fuel pump an fuel pressure regulator, splitfire coils and a highflow on its way (yet to be fitted).. can u set a boost level in the tune or do u need an ebc? last thing is are there any tuners in perth?

would be keen as but i have warranty on the car that covers the auto box.. maybe when that runs out in 4 years and i still have the stag.. would love a 6 speed though . mmmmmmm 6 speed dont get me wrong,i still like the auto for cruiseability

gtr manual conversion = 6 speed and it would be cheaper,, not shure if a gtr box would bolt on to the rb25... anyone?

why tighter than tight.. seems the seal should be ok if the washer and surfaces are new and clean.. over tightening could be bad yea?

well hopefully will be geting the turbo on monday so maybe in 2 weekends. will post a week in advance so anyone who wants to come and help can.. mesa gettin exa cited . thanks for the enthusiastic response dale will be keen for u n shonky to drop round..

it was a swap with jash from c red. swaped my downhill race bike so value of round 1300... hmmm oil everywhere ay.. dont like the sound of that.. will give it a go just got to pick my weekend

as title suggests im thinking of tackling this job myself to save some coin. not shure how involved its gona be and anyone with good mechanical knowledge will be a great help..its going to be a direct bolt on and i have most of the tools and an air compressor so if anyone wants too help ........ beers are on me can someone give me a time frame to allow for the turbo swap cheers jippa

they came with the kit.. i was still paranoid they were going to pop off on the first drive as im boosting around 11psi. i was also toying with the idea of making a stagea specific stencil to spray on the fmic.. nothing to fancy just stagea with unicorn heads.. if anyones bored and wants to design something.. post it up here

well here are the pics of my install.. probably took 6 hours from start to finish. i did swing the washer bottle to the side and i did cut a hole under the battery but i didnt need to touch the front bar reo.. i also chose to put the neo cover back on after a trim.. i managed to guess the first cut almost perfectly as what u see is 1 cut and bolted on.. good way to end the install

i wouldn't swap my stag for a 33 as i have a s2 mildly moded.maybe someone with an s1 or stock s2.. what would u expect for your 33 in a sale

finally fitted my monster fmic of ebay today and im quite happy with the fitment. everything droped in nicely but i did cut the hole under the baterry and i did have to relocate my washer bottle. apart from that the install went quite well. there is a little bit of lag but its minimal and there is virtually no whistle.. i would recommend these coolers to anyone as they are cheap and reasonable quality. got mine for under 350 delivered to my door.will post a pic or 2 tomorow

left handed drill bits sound good.. i want some im upgrading my turb to a high flow.. swapped 2 of my mountain bikes for it.. was thinking of doing it myself but it could turn into a nightmare so might leave it to the pros.. hope all ends up well for u.. sourced yourself a new turb yet?

where are u based? i have some side skirts on the my s2 that need to come of for repair but im in wa

cheek the silicone job that the compliance shop did on your headlight cable entry holes

i remember spoting something at supercheap to fix this. it involves removing headlight, pouring in the liquid and moving the light around so all the area gets covered and voila. 1 shinny new looking piece of clear plastic apparently...

probably shouldnt go further up than factory settings otherwise u might be blinding oncoming trafic

the best way to check if its working is at night park infront of a wall with a few meters gap and adjust the height.. u will notice if it moves up and down buy the top of the beam moving. if its not working it may have been disconected during compliance. the plug is at the rear of the light and mine got filled with silicone