Daewoo

Maybe if you had more than 15 years life experience you might be a little smarter... Business Insurance is nothing like car insurance. If the damage costs $100K to fix, the insurer will pay the bill, and then increase the premium by 20% of the cost over 5 years... the owner ends up paying the whole lot, just don't need to find the cash at the time... Cheers, Daewoo

Hi Dennis, With the fronts you don't need to drill, you just pull them apart and fill them with higher weight oil. ATF seems to be about 20W... you really should use the correct weight fork oil or hydraulic oil, but ATF is available and cheap... engine oil at 50W when warm would be too stiff for dirt work, and I would suggest too stiff for track work as well, unless you are are running huge springs... For the rears, I usually drill a hole in the base, drain the oil, refill, and then tap a thread and bolt with an o-ring... In this case, we both have some cheap gas rears to use... Cheers, Daewoo

There are two parts to building a motor, bottom end and top end... bottom end is about reliability, top end about power. I reckon, get an old Nissan RB30 motor for a hundred bucks or free, and strip it down... Send all the bits to an engine rebuilder to put through their parts washer... Get them, to measure the pistons to see if you can re-use them... (they are actually measuring the size of the bore and the piston so see if they are OK. If not they bore the engine and you need to buy next size up pistons)... Get them to measure the crank to see if it needs to be ground... You might want to get everything balanced (but you need to buy your clutch first if you are going to do that)... and maybe get the rods linished (smooth out the castings to lessen weak spots) and shotpeened (to harden them a bit)... Other than that, it is just a matter of putting it all together with new rings, bearings, and gaskets... Top end, get another RB25 head, you can just get the valves re-cutt and reassemble... Any manual will give you instructions on how to do it and all this is cheap to do, and will be pretty reliable until you start messing with the top end and turbos to make more HP... It isn't going to set the world on fire performance wise, and won't be reliable if you mate up a truck turbo, but you will have built it yourself... probably under $1000 total... Cheers, Daewoo

Nobody likes a smart arse... actually, I do, :lol: I assume it is about 270g, as these is 270mL in each strut... so by not running ANY oil, I could lightweight the car by 1/2000th of a tonne. Full Race... And for other respondents, thanks JH. From my Rally forum, a guy said he thinks standard is SAE15. So going up to 20 will stiffen the old girl up a bit... Cheers, Daewoo

For a mates Khanacross Hack - Don't want to over capitalise with some $70 Strut Inserts, and rear coilovers are actually expensive even for KYB or something equally average. Anyone know what weight the standard oil is for front and rears (in this case an MR30, but I suspect it would be pretty standard across the make). Cheers. Daewoo

Not defending the cops... in my experience they have become bone lazy... they use the excuse that pursue something through legal channels to justify doing nothing at all... Going against the grain here, I was a bit of a lout in my younger days, like most of you probably... got drunk in parks at 15, being loud and obnoxious (no different to today actually)... We used to get hassled by the cops a bit, which just drives you to hide better... maybe what they are trying to achieve... go to a mates house instead of the park... I know that then, if the cops called my parents and told them I had been seen throwing rocks at a car, or even if it was suspected that I did it, my parents would have crucified me... and I think that today most parents would... I know that if the cops had taken legal action, the parents would have lawyered up, and the case would be shot down... but I reckon in 90% of cases, a call to the parents to come and pick their drunk child up who is suspected of thowing rocks at cars would have had the desired outcome... but the cops would rather wait until the kids get into break and enter, and then take action... And if they call the parents, and they don't give a shit, nothing is really lost is it... I used to have respect for GD cops, but now, I have little confidence... Cheers, Daewoo

Make sure you call first. It is as big as any wreckers I have seen, but it is only Carlos and run on the same property as his home... Plus he is very involved in Rallying, so you never know when he will be home... Cheers, Darryl

Not sure if the rules are the same in SA as in NSW... but just proving you are not the driver isn't enough... if they can't find who to pass the fine to, they just convert the fine from Speeding to "Being responsible for a vehicle that was speeding" and you still wear the fine and the points... Sorry dude, but unless you can provide the cops with details of the driver, you will still wear it. Daewoo

You can talk to Carlos Casmiri at Sportsclassic http://www.sportsclassic.com.au Address: 1077 Castlereagh Road, Castlereagh NSW 2749 Postal Address: PO Box 1257, Penrith NSW 2751 Phone: (02) 4776 1174 Mobile: 0418 284 776 Email: [email protected] Business Hours: STRICTLY BY APPOINTMENT ONLY. Please call to arrange an appointment. Dealers Licence: DL13543 Carlos is a bit up and down with his prices, but always worth a try. Note that L28/L26 Cranks have a harmonics point and are prone to break unless you fit a very expensive harmonic balancer. We use an L28 Block with L24 crank and rods (effectively the same as boring out an L24 out by 3mm (120 Thou) to 2.6L and is very oversquare, so it rev's like a sewing machine and is pretty bomb-proof ... http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Cheers, Daewoo Cheers, Daewoo

Correct me if I am wrong, but I thought MR30s had non-replaceable ball joints, and you need to replace the Lower COntrol Arm (about $100 each instead of $40). No trying to be obstructive, just didn't want the OP going down the wrong path and chewing up time... Cheers, Daewoo

Unfortunately, looks like he already has your email address... otherwise, I would say, set up a dogdy gmail about and scambait his arse... heaps of fun to be had stringing these lowlifes along... see www.419eater.com Cheers, Daewoo

If you have Comp Insurance, you can take it to the repairer of your choice, and your insurer will assess it... you claim against your insurance, and as long as they can get the folding out of hers you don't pay excess or loose no claim... If you don't have comp, you need to get two or three quotes unless you use one of their repairers, in which case their assessor verifies the beaters quote and gives it the go ahead... Whatever you do, don't let it go to one of their "assessment centers" where the dodgiest of the dodgiest who can't get work trough word of mouth pick up the work by being the cheapest, and then cut corners to make a proffit... Cheers, Daewoo

I thought that must be you from BMSC... can't be too many 'warps' around... N15 - i.e. FWD only. I bought it as a rally only import it in '97 after I won the under 2L 2WD state champs in my 1600... $8000 at the time for a damaged front and rear 1500 Auto was a good price, imagine what you could get for that money now Converted it to an Aus delivered 2L manual, but then was convinced by Lee Petersen that I had to use a U13 Bluebird gearbox which turned into an engineering nightmare... meant changing the uprights, also had to change the rear hubs, spacers machined, gearbox mounts all moved, driveshafts shortened, now the steering is all f^cked up because the steering arms in the front hubs are much longer... and you can't get an LSD for it, which you could for the smaller standard GB... Finally got it all going and blew up the engine first khanacross... trying to use the 1500 radiator... bought and fitted a new engine but haven't had it tuned again... Wife, kids, mortgage and long work hours just mean nothing ever gets done... It does have Autoronics, Proflex and a log booked Chrome Moly Cage built by Hyundai Ralysport before they closed down... These days don't have the money to use it (wouldn't be any good for much other than rallying i.e. fast but not sideways for fun, and rallying is just too expensive these days), so can't be bothered spending the last few $1000 it would take to get it ready for competition... It owes me a shedload of cash and costs me nothing to keep in the mates chook shed, so I don't see the sense in selling it for a pitance which is all a 95% complete, untested, undeveloped, unproven car would fetch... You are right about all the RWD cars getting silly money... and even if you buy one, the cost of parts is silly... that is why I like the R30... IRS so it gets good traction, all the right Datsun driveability and reliability (unlike the R31s I play against in the State Khanacross Championships), and cheap as chips... only thing is, when I was playing with Datsuns, everyone had bits they would give and swap, and the wreckers had heaps of cars to give stuff away to competition guys... now days, I don't have those sorts of contacts.... The excel series seems like a good thing, but it will only be a matter of time before someone starts throwing 10s of thousands at it like the did with the Gemini Series and f^ck it for everyone... Cheers, Daewoo

Anyone in Sydney with an R31 wreck in their backyard??? Cheers, Daewoo

I appreciate the info, and I will see if I can get just the boot... You are right, this isn't any big budget racer... I have a $30K Pulsar Rally Car sitting unused 'cause I don't have the money to move it forward, and it isn't worth anything to sell... this is the $500 beater that needs to take a kicking and keep asking for more ... Daewoo

I guess $70 isn't too bad, but still almost 33% of the value of the car ... No rose jointing or anything, I don't need it to be adjustable... after years of cars with adjustable suspension, my experience is, I, and most people never adjust it anyway once they get to a setting they like... I like the idea of grafting an R31 LCA on if that would allow me to change balljoints when needed... I would probably be happy with just a new boot for the balljoints that I screwed... the ball joints both seemed OK... Cheers, Daewoo

Wanted, R31 Lower Control Arms and Steering Arms to use in my R30 Skyline Khanacross Hack. Free or Cheap preferred... you know that you will never use them yourself and they are just taking up room Cheers, Daewoo

Is it correct that R30 Skyline Lower Control Arms don't have replaceable ball joints??? I have a couple of R30 ones that I need to get lengthened to give me 2 1/2 degrees negative camber. I stuffed the boot for the balljoint seperating the steering arms. I have now been told that the ball joints aren't replacable, so what I need to do is graft the outer end of an R31 lower control arm onto the inner end of an R30 one. Anyone got a couple of R31 LCAs lying around that they would like to donate to a purebred race car like only an MR30 Hatch. can be??? Apparently R31 Steering Arms are good as well as they are shorter and therefore speed up the rack, if anyone has some... Cheers, Daewoo

Double Post

This will be the first thing I check when I go to work on the car this weekend... Cheers, Daewoo

Well, as best as I can find out, the calendar is as below. 20/02/2010, Hampton (Near Oberon), NSW 21/03/2010 Ringwood, (Near Raymond Terrace) NSW 30/05/2010 Ringwood, (Near Toronto) NSW 27/06/2010 Awaba, NSW 01/08/2010 Awaba, NSW 9/09/2010 Awaba, NSW 24/10/2010 Ansell park, (Richmond) NSW Of course I live in Southern Sydney, so this means 5 trips from here North... great Daewoo

Or the car has done 480,000 km... seems like the likely explaination to me...

Thanks for that info... Yeah, you can drop the timing cover if you drop the sump, done it a few times on the 1600... I'll check that out... Cheers, Darryl

Note that Homologation only applies to cars homologated under the International FIA rules, outside of that, Australia has a class called Production Rally Cars, which most cars here run under... but to be eligible to run as PRC, the car must be a 4 door touring car, with a few cars that have been granted exemptions (RX7, 240Z)... The only remotely successful big PRC car are the VB-VK Comodes... none of the bigger Dunnydores or Falcorns have been competitive... I would stronglys suggest before you build a car you think about what you would like to race in, and then check out the rules... A mate built a VL Commodore only to find that the rules change for pre and post '86 cars, and his car was mostly ineligible... About the tyres, I don't think anyone makes 15inch gravel tyres... the issue is that there is a rule which sets the maximum outer diameter of the tyres... (the bigger the OD of the tyre, the better it handles rough roads, so they have to limit it through the rules)... to have sufficient sidewall, they can only do that in a 15inch case... all of the GT4s have smaller brakes than standard to fit them under 15inch wheels, but then when you put $2000 calipers over $2000 rotors and use $1200 pads, the size isn't as important... Cheers, Daewoo

there are a number of R30s out there, but i've never known of an R32 up. Traditionally sports cars make crap rally cars, because getting ground clearance screws up the geometry and chassis dynamics. Also there have been lots of rule changes that make old dinosaur 1600s far more competitive than they deserve. 2.4L motors etc. When I won the 2L 2WD class in 97 in a budget 1600, 2nd was a 60K Gemini. I think an RB powered R30 would be a good thing for rally sprints where there are more open rules. Cheers, Daewoo