Daewoo

I dare you guys not to laugh when you read what the problem ended up being... I dare you... The cars are at a mates place, and he has a lot of trouble with wasps making their mud nests in every available hole... so he had jammed a black spray paint can lid into the pipe from the AFM to the TB... right in the middle where the pipe bent... to stop wasps nesting in the inlet manifold so the car now runs (very badly but runs)... Next problem tho... this car was supposed to be fine other than a blown headgasket... so I have now changed the head gasket and oil and filter, and the oil is again just as white as before I started... head is torqued correctly, so I don't think it will be a gasket (didn't really check that the block was flat I guess)... anywhere else where wet stuff often mixes with black stuff to become white stuff??? Cheers, Daewoo

Well before I got into bikes less than half a decade ago, I raced cars... I was under 2L Chanmpion in the 1997 NSW Rally Championship, and been competing in mtorsport for almost 20 years, so I know aboot cars much more than I know aboot bikes... That was in a Datsun 1600 with an engine built by me (ie. without skill) for $700 against cars worth $40K and $60K IN MY CLASS... so I think the Bravo Ute would be a luxury ... Bikes (typically) have a wet clutch, which is sympathetic to being 'slipped' or fanned... it has multiple clutch plates surrounded by oil... cars hopefully do not have oil in the clutch and have mucho torquo, so fanning the clutch isn't proper driving... Car engines use compression braking effectively, so declutching, or shifting into neutral is a negative rather that a positive... my point being, you are a guy who really wants to drive a car properlly, yet even you haven't been taught this most fundamental skill... Compression locking only occurs if the engine speed (ie gear selection and speed of declutching) can not match the road speed... you can shift a car from 5th to 2nd if you let the clutch out slow enough... so while compression locking is good for initiating turn in (or a scandinavian flick), I can imagine it is frowned upon in a driving test... don't get me wrong, using the gearbox to slow the car isn't right... gears are for going, brakes are for slowing... but bragging about shifting to neutral or holding the clutch while brakiing in is like bragging about rooting by sticking your dick in and just leaving it there... not the desired outcome for anyone... Cheers, Daewoo

Joined when I was going to build an RA26/30DETT powered 240Z rally car, now I race an R30 so got back in to it. Motorbikes are still my main interest. Cheers Daewoo

Yep, that's what I was calling the throttle postion sensor... connected, and swapped it with one I know works without effect... Cheers, Darryl

That sounds like a likely culprit... where is the sensor for that located on the TB?

Geeze... it takes 47 pages to say they sound shithouse and are usually owned by wankers :bolt: raced against many of them... standard they are a good little machine, and with a standardish exhaust system you don't want to punch the driver in the chops... but once the owner start tinkering with them, they never seem to finish a test without something going wrong... and the only car whose owners can more often be relied upon the be a dick is a WRX... Cheers, Daewoo

I know a guy in Nowra, not cheap but good work... You have PM...

Location my good man?

Sorry, but in a thread about how crap Australian drivers are, you are showing part of the reason why we are so crap,no one ever taught you to drive properly... even in top gear, no throttle means the compression of the engine is helping to slow the car... and fanning the clutch is for motorbikes, not for cars... Australian drivers are crap... our roads are crap, we try to cover large distances in short time, and we rely on a speed sign to tell us what is safe... But also, you need to distinguish between generally crap driving, like not watching the sequence of the traffic lights, pushing in, driving too slow, and unsafe driving, like not being able to stay on your side of the road, driving drunk, or driving fatigued... I am at pains a bit to put to much blame on the roads... fact is, a zillion people drove around that bend for everyone that crashes... many probably faster than the one that crashed, the ne that crashed just wasn't concentrating or equiped with the skills to stay out of trouble... as a poster said eariler I am constantly amazed at there people manage to kill themselves... dead straight multilane roads, and a bouquet of flowers... it just doesn't make sense... but, I am into motorbikes and am astounded by how many crash in the Royal National Park, and then try and blame the road... there isn't a corner in the park that I can't get around at double the speed limit, and my bike isn't even a street bike... yet somehow the road is to blame for them not making a corner... Still, having travelled extensively throught Asia and also the UK nowhere have I come across goat tracks used as major roads like we do here in Australia... where much of Asia is connected by 8 lane dual carriage ways, we have only in the last couple of years connected our two closes capital cities, Sydney and Canberra... 60% of fatal crashes take place on rural roads, even higher if pedestrian fatalities are taken out... obviously because cars are travelling at higher speeds, so the outcome is worse... yet all tests are taken the metro areas (even in country towns they don't go on the highway)... sure people purposely driving fast (especially youths) figure in these percentages (no young bloke from the country has never raced between theirs and the next closest town), but many of them are mum, dad, grandma, grandpa, driving along a country 'highway' at the speed the sign tells them is safe, failing to negotiate one bend in many hundred hours of lifetime driving, and a tragedy occuring... you can bet very few of them were actually speeding, or speeding at a point that actually had a bearing on the crash... 40% of fatal crashes are from hitting roadside 'furniture', trees, poles, bridges... just moving them all back 10m would apprently reduce the road toll by up to 50%... Australia also relies heavily on road transport, because we don't have a freight rail network to speak off... truck drivers get fatigued and have single vehicle accidents, or wander a foot onto the wrong side of the road, and because our major roads are so small, the car coming the other way has nowhere to go... many of my mates are truckies, none of them cowboys, but the fact is, our roads just aren't capable of running trucks that size over those distances safely... I also believe though, the government and media has created a culture of trully shit drivers in Australia, look at the high number of 4WDs on country roads, unable to maintain even that ridiculously low speed limit... someone gets the shits and overtakes with insufficient room and crash... who is truly to blame... Look at the number of realtively fast cars you see on country roads, Camrys, Subarus, Peugots, Volvos, sitting on 20km/h under the speed limit, oblivious to the queue of traffic behind them... Trucks strugging up hills and 10km between overtaking lanes, where the aforementioned Camry will pull along side them, but not be willing to do 101km/h to overtake... And before we get all compacent that the road toll is coming down, almost all of that reduction is due to the advances in emergency medical treatement and transport (helicopters)... actual accident rates and severity have actually remained fairly stable for 20 years (despite all the f^cking revenue cameras)... so unfortunately for many of the 'boy racers' on here... I really believe that an attention to excessive speed/enthusiastic driving among young males in the cities (highly over represented in the 40% of non-rural crashes), by actual bastard HWP cops... and using your traffic infringment money to pay for better medical treatment/transport in the country is the only real way to reduce the road toll in the short term... no amount of fining drivers for 20km/h over where it is generally low risk is going to change their behaviour... Long term multilane divided roads are the next step, but very expensive in Australia... in the mean time, I just wish they would fine every f^cker that can't understand "Keep Left Unless Overtaking"... while actually low causal for fatal accidents, just the height of arrogance or ignorance, and they should all be fined $1000 and then shot ... Cheers, Daewoo

Thanks Nigel, Yeah, MR30 L24E... I am not much with EFI/Electronics but I will give it a go... Cheers, Darryl

I've run up and down many rivers in Asia (especially Thailand) (and in the ocean occasionally) on boats like this... they go like stink in a straight line, expescially the big ones on Mae Naam Chao Phraya that can seat about 20 people... but because the direction of push from the propeller is centered in the motor about 1m above the waterline, they have to stop and just edge the boat a little bit at a time to turn it... when they get it pointed where they want it, the drop the prop back into the water, open the taps, and they go like stink... So any little runabout would eat them, since they can't turn, but they are great fun... kinda reminds me of all of the pussy drag cars, racing means cornering ... BTW, they are generally built like this because of the shallow draft, and because there is usually a lot of floating weeds in the river, so they can easily lift to prop out of the water to clear it... Cheers Daewoo

Actually, this forum doesn't seem to be as bad as the Pulsar forum I was on, where every other post was about how "the cops" or "some bastard" tailgated the member and "forced" them to speed, and now they have been busted and are going to loose their license... That's 10!!!

Thanks Dennis, I only need one more post after this and I can reply... I am sure there is a reason for that rule, but it is a bit of a PITA... Brief aboot me... I won the under 2L 2WD class in the NSW Rally Championship back in 97 in a mighty 1600... thought I would import a new car form Japan, build it, and go really fast with lots of sponsorship... as my financial commitments grew (house, wife, 3 kids), and the cost of rallying grew exponentially, my desire/capability to throw more money at that car has gone in the opposite direction... it now sits 95% complete in a mates shed... not worth selling, not worth finishing... I bought a White MR30 Sedatch Auto from a mate for $400... it has been crashed in the front NS corner, and I pulled it out with the winch on my Prado... replaced the guard and bonnet, installed a hydraulic handbrake and welded 4.9:1 diff and it became a race car... I can't fit a headlight or grille which prevents me taking it on the track (won't pass the 'clean and presentable criteria)... so I decided to start with a new car rather than fixing that one and further... it is still the Khanacross weapon until the new car is working... I bought another crashed, Green, manual sedan and clean, green, auto sedatch with a blown headgasket for $500... I striped the sedan of everything I wanted head, EFI, ECU, front and rear KYBs and other stuff and sent it to the scrapper... unfortunately the gearbox in it was screwed (input shaft bearing/housing collapsed and destroyed the front housing)... The sedatch was pretty good, other than the blown headgasket... which you can read in my other thread I have replaced, but can't get running... I am pretty mechanically minded, but don't know much about the EFI on these engines, and neither do most of my mates... At the moment I will hold of on a new ECU/Injectors until I get it running and do all of the other work; fit a manual GB (K Box with shortened tailshaft I think), hydraulic handbrake, race seats and harneses out of the Pulsar, lengthened lower control arms, diff out of the white car, strip the interior, swap the suspension with the stuff from the green sedan... I would really rather do all of that to a Sedan, as I think they look much better, but until then, the Sedatch will suffice, once I get it running, damn thing... First round of the 2010 Championship is on 20th Feb at Ringwood (Raymond Terrace) so I think the White Sedatch will be called into duty for the first few rounds as I continue to work on the green car... Cheers, Daewoo

I thought I would start a new thread for this, even tho I mentioned it in the previous thread I started... also helps me get my post count up ... On a more technical note, one of the cars, that is destined to become the primary hack, had a blown head gasket. I had one of my heads overhauled (not sure what model, kidney shaped combustion chamber, small valves, FI ports (E88 rings a bell)... I ported it a little and matched it myself for free... I stripped off all of the polution gear and water heating for the manifolds/TB that I could see... I now have two problems, I can get the car to start, it has fuel and spark, but nothing I do to the throttle has any effect... I changed the AFM and TPS with no effect... the car was running until the head came off, and I am a bit lost for ideas... it is also pissing water out of either the head/block joint or Inlet Manifold/Head joint (where I don't think there are any water galleries). I am thinking perhaps one of the manifold studs/bolts has penetrated the water gallery in the head. I don't want to pull that apart until after I get the car running so I can transport it... Any ideas??? The car starts and idles very badly (no exhaust, just headers)... but opening the TB has no effect, opening the AFM has no effect... the car just continues to idel exactly the same... I am wondering if one of the sensors I have disconnected would send the ECU into limp mode or something... Cheers, Daewoo

I should have said I would PM you once my posts reach 10. this is only number 7.

Thanks D... I am assuming that FJ20ET Injectors are not cheap... but will keep them in mind... I'll also keep an eye out for a microtech, but they actually don't come up so often... that would be ideal, as I am sure the AFM/small TB is the bigger problem... Most Zeds run 6x36mm Chokes in their webbers, and this motor has one 42mm TB... can't be good... It has headers, and I will use most of a 2 1/2 Inch exhaust from one of the wrecks I stripped... I am an old racer, but this car has to stay as a cheap as chips car... I have a 95% complete N15 Pulsar Import Rally Car in the shed that owes me $40K, including $7K worth of suspension that has hardly turned a wheel in anger 'cause I can't afford it anymore... just don't have the time or cash for real motorsport anymore... The Skyline is by necessity a play and forget type of thing, I get annoyed when I have to take it off my mates trailer in between events... and when I had to put new water in the radiator when I holed it... I mean water is like 1c a litre these days ... That said, once I get the current build up running, I have some KYB Fronts and Rears, Selby Springs and Selby Sway Bars to insert... That should be good enough for the purpose of maximum sideways and fun... I'll send you a PM now I have enough posts to my name... On a more technical note, one of the cars, that is destined to become the primary hack, had a blown head gasket. I had one of my heads overhauled (not sure what model, kidney shaped combustion chamber, small valves, FI ports (E88 rings a bell)... I ported it a little and matched it myself for free... I stripped off all of the polution gear and water heating for the manifolds/TB that I could see... I now have two problems, I can get the car to start, it has fuel and spark, but nothing I do to the throttle has any effect... I changed the AFM and TPS with no effect... the car was running until the head came off, and I am a bit lost for ideas... it is also pissing water out of either the head/block joint or Inlet Manifold/Head joint (where I don't think there are any water galleries). I am thinking perhaps one of the manifold studs/bolts has penetrated the water gallery in the head. I don't want to pull that apart until after I get the car running so I can transport it... You guys will also be proud of me, my ex-codriver ended up buying himself an MR30 after seeing the fun we had in mine... this is a guy that already owns 1 zed shell. 1 Zed rally Car, a Moke competition car, and a Copper S... He is as stupid as me, so the first thing he did was scour eBay for an enormous rear spoiler... his car... I can't find any photos of my ones... Cheers, Daewoo

I run it in the NSW State Khanacross Championship... rounds all around Sydney (Newcastle to Richmond to Nowra)... It is a CAMS event, so I am sure Vic would have it too... I bought the first MR30 off a mate for the value of the TI Mags and dissy, $400, turned up to a race (with 2 others driving my car) and another 3 white skylines turn up (with 3 drivers each)... all of them $500 POSs ... we just get out there and go hard, a couple of other guys have bought cars along thinking they could join in, but can't handle the pace... If you snot a tree with a $500 POS, you just take the wheels and dissy, and look for another... The beginning of the NSW White Skyline One Make Khanacross Championship...

Cheers Nigel, I suppose the fully sik hektik race mod would be a vairable resistor... No AFM/TB swaps that would work??? As I understand, the R30 EFI is analogue, and everything else is digital, so I can't just put the AFM/TB off an R31 for example... Also, the injectors have the fuel hose integrated, where everything else I know if sits in a fuel rail. Can I steal injectors off something else, particlarly since mine have 20 years of gunk in them... Cheers, Darryl,

Hi All, I have a couple of MR30 Skylines that I use for dirt circuit racing. I am wondering if there are any easy mods to get better performance without spending any real money. There are a group of us old racers now running old low budget Skylines, and spending any real money goes against the spirit of the thing. One group run a C210, and 3 guys run R31s. I am the only one running an R30, and can keep them all honest due to better traction. Both are L24E motors, standard everything... Wondering if there are easy mods like swapping the AFM/TB of another Datsun, ways to fool the ECU into delivering more fuel, easy injector swap etc. After 20 years of racing I am pretty handy with the spanners, just don't know anyting aboot EFI or these old Skylines. Cheers, Daewoo

Hi Nathan, Can't PM as I haven't pasted X10. I am looking for everything for a conversion into an MR30 Race Car. Please send me a PM with your email address and prices... I am guessing it is all the mecanicals from the Diff forwards (not including Diff), computer and looms. I have some mates in Nowra that could have a look at the car before I make the drive down. Cheers, Darryl

GTRAAH, Asking if an engine is ok by based only upon a compression test is like asking if a chick is hot because she wears nice shoes. What this test has shown is that the guage you used showed a reading at the lower end of OK. The guage might be worng, it might have had this reading from the factory, it might have low compression pistons, or it might have a problem. I wouldn't worry too much about the booster battery. If it spun over OK, and you kept cranking until the guage stayed at a stable reading, then you most like go the correct reading (for that guage). Do liketridentt150v said and put some oil down the plug hole to make a better seal. What you are doing is increasing the seal between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. (Testing first without oil, then with) If there is a big difference in the readings, it is most likely because the rings are worn, although this would also usually show up as the car using oil and smelling of burnt oil as well, and constantly fouling spark plugs). (As a bonus when you drive after doing this test you will do the whole Batman smoke screen thing until all the oil in the cylinder burns up ). If there is no difference between the two readings, your valves most likely aren't sealing properly (or maybe you have a big cam ). One last thing, high compression doesn't give you better performance, correct compression does. (too high you need to retard the timing to stop the engine from pre-ignition and loose a lot more than you gain). Cheers, Daewoo