r3240sx

Come on fellas, I'd really appreciate some feedback! -Max

Theres no point, but if you really want to rev that high the most popular setup is an r32 GTS-T conversion with forged internals and proper oiling mods. You could probably see 10,000 rpm safely.. Yes this setup is far superior to the rb25 in every way.. Also, this post is entirely inspired by sarcasm.

Still looking for info

I've been searching and searching, but I seem to get so many weird results with the SAU search feature. I'm just curious as to what it would take for an rb26 swap in to my s13. I have an rb20 intalled currently with an r32 crossmember... Are all r32 crossmembers the same? Will the rb26 bolt on to my transmission, and the mounts that my rb20 sit on? Do rb20 oil pans work on the 26? Any input is greatly appreciated.. I apologize if this has been covered before, as Im sure it has somewhere. Would you mind pointing me in the right direction? Thanks! -Max

I'd like to order a pair of Red RB20 cam gears. However, I live in the states, will this pose a problem? Thanks! -Max

Have you looked into a Garrett T3 super 60? I think those are good for around 300 hp, and cost about $650 USD (750-800 AUD?). Plain old journal bearring, so it wouldnt spool as fast as a 2530... but you could buy like 2-3 of them for the price of the HKS unit.

Lol, that exhaust is a 3.5" from the turbo elbow back.. Its still to quiet! The Nur spec can's sound deadening is completely gone too... I like cam idles, so it sounds cool to me... but yeah, unhealthy at the same time.

Right on, some inspiration! My plans have changed a little for the near future.. As much as I'd still love to do this, the car is my daily driver atm.. I dont want to wait 6 months to drive because of parts on order. For now I'm doing some bolt on power upgrades that will help in the future stroker/built motor, and in the present stock/reliable form. Fitted my GTR cams - woot!

Funny joke, you are joking... arent you? If you're not joking.. Read this: http://www.bblgroup.us/ssautochrome.htm and then PLEASE change your mind!

what should I set my timing at? RB20 timing (15) or RB26 timing (20) Idle Vid:

r33 rb26 cams btw

I used rb20 cam caps. I have only driven it slowly.. but I did get on it in first, twice, which broke the tires loose about 4000 rpm. I havent timed the car yet and I left a BOV unplugged, so I've got 2 huge problems that are sucking power.. Yes my car has basically no torque now.. I dont see how people do any cam upgrade in an rb20 and get this bad of low end.. I dont buy it just yet, I'm gonna fix my boost leak and time the car properly and then give you an accurate power opinion.

Just got my car back together and running. Cams work fine, I dont see the big fuss.. Really just gotta take your time and make sure the cam caps/journals are smooth, and the cams arent bent. Most time consuming part was finely sanding the bolts to fit better in the cam caps. Worst idle EVER! I've heard cammed LS1's idle better than this!! If I knew the idle was going to be this bad I would have gladly paid DOUBLE for the cams even if they didnt make any more power! Sounds like a drag supra! Its the truth, the sound is the real gain! Now, when I time the car properly, fix my humungous boost leak, and adjust the idle a little, I'm convinced the that idle is just going to be a little rougher than stock... but seriously dudes, you're modding a car for higher HP (kw's, whatever..), sacrifices must be made. I'll post my power gain impression once I work out these few issues.. I'm still convinced I described the important part of the payoff of these cams though (sounds). Great thread guys, a few bits of info in here really helped.. Thanks Dudes! -Max

Got the rb20 cams out. The only problem I had was the bolts seizing in the cam caps.. I didnt break any bolts, but they sure dont turn well in the caps. I'll remove them from the caps tomorrow at work and find away to make them turn easily in the caps so they do not bind or break. Other than that, everything came off pretty easily, just marked the crap out of everything with a sharpie so that it will go back on properly... I'll keep you guys posted, if I get the new seals and the bolts turning freely in the cam caps I'll have it back together by tomorrow night. Its about 15 degrees farenheit here right now and the roads are all iced over, so a butt dyno probably will not be very accurate... And Im not sure when I'll be able to get my car on the rollers... But I'll keep you posted on the change in exhaust note! -Max

I got my cams in the mail today. I'll be installing them in about 5 minutes... just going to skim over this thread one more time, lol! What should I do about tuning? I have an SAFC, and its corrected to about 12:1 when I ran 13 psi. I'm running 10 psi now.. Should I set the fuel correction to 0% just for safety until I can get my car on a dyno? I am at over -10% correction right now for most of the rev range. Any input on my SAFC settings would be greatly appreciated.. also any tips on installation of these cams will probably help! Thanks, -Max

You're damn right there is! I put down 219 hp, or 163 rwkw, at 12 psi on my rb20 turbo. SAFC, open downpipe, FMIC. My roommates car made 258 hp 259 tq on his r33 turbo @ 16 psi.

Did I read that right...? you hit 14 psi at 5800 rpms?!? Sounds like if you replaced your turbo/manifold gaskets you'd get better spool than if you upgraded to a ball bearring turbo! Seriously, thats and unhealthy late spool.

I saw a 595 rwhp rb25 on nitrous. It lasted a few months I believe. I think you could pull off a 500+ rwhp RB25 with a stock bottom end for quite a while if you tune it correctly and it doesnt see redline 100x a day lol. I've heard of a few other 600 hp rb25's but that is the only one I clearly remember. Not to thread jack, but does anyone know the record high hp on an rb20's stock block? Just curious.

Just look at your dyno graph and see if the power looks like its still rising when it hits 8,000. If your head is entirely stock it seems like 8,000 should be the limit. Get cams and then think about raising it.

I got them from a guy on nico. How much were you selling yours for? I paid $175 USD shipped. A few people told me that was a good deal. If shipping isnt too bad my roommate might be interested in your cams. We're in the states btw.

Well I went ahead and risked it, I have a set of GTR cams on order.. I'll report here when I get them in. Perhaps a dyno graph if time allows.

Well guys I really appreciate the reply's. However, I've been thinking the past few days if I'd like to be waiting for months at a time for parts to arrive. I still really like the idea of a properly done stroker motor, but the cost combined with the time is massively discouraging. I knew there would be a lot of work involved, but it seems as though theres more waiting and BS with ordering the right parts than there is actual building. Like I said, I dont mind the wait... but if this motors going to take years to even drive again, forget it! lol. I'll hang on to the crank and rods for a rainy day. For now I have a set of GTR cams on order and trying to decide on a turbo that will give me a nice powerband. Besides, a 2500 lb car will be nuts even with 300 hp! Thanks again, I dont consider the research a waste, just more learning... -Max

I dont plan on getting 500 rwhp with a stock head. I will build the block first. The head comes next when I accumulate more funds. Final goal of around 500 rwhp. Regardless, I already have the rb20... Already have the crank and rods. Lets do an over estimation of the costs... Berrings/rod/main, new studds all around/metal HG/crank collar = $1000 Pistons (OEM) = $500 Pistons (forged) = $800 Machine work = $1000 And lets just add another $1000 for kicks and giggles and the other parts that arent coming to mind. Rb23 = $3500 roughly Stock Rb25 motorset = $3000-$3500 + New driveshaft, mounts, more wiring. The rb25 would be another sketchy unknown JDM motor The rb23 would be completely rebuilt, and I'd know it would be less likely to crap out on me. Peace of mind if anything. If I wanted to spend more on another used stock motor, I'd just save for an RB26. I dont see what I'm missing, but let me know if I am missing something. Thanks, -Max

Thanks for the help guys.. I've read just about all of that RB26 cam thread, and no one seems to have made up their minds if its a good idea or not (might not be drop in/might not be worth the headache/etc). Now, I'm still a little curious about my questions 1,2,3 (mostly about knife edging the crank), and 5. Again I appreciate the help! -Max

Okay. I'll put in a set of GT-R cams, and call it a day. That is, until I have the money for a real port/polish and aftermarket cams. Merry Christmas dudes!