r3240sx

I recently got my car running again with the new motor. I lost my last motor due do a faulty brain (leaned out and chewed away at most of my pistons, I'm retarded). Anyway, my car's back on the road with a fresh bottom end and a fuel system that can support my power (about 280whp). Walbro 255lph Supra 7mgte injectors with resistor (440cc's) Nismo fuel pressure regulator (48 psi) It seems to be around 2700-3700 if I lay into the throttle slowly but completely, the wideband takes a dive for the lean end of the gauge, I usually catch it before it gets past 15.5:1 and let off. Keep in mind the turbo has probably only spooled 3-5 psi by then. If I were to stay in the throttle and not let off, the gauge would peg lean 17+:1 and I'd feel the car surge a little because of the terribly lean mixture. I do not have a reflashed ECU and the only thing I'm tuning with is an SAFC. I know this is not ideal, and I'm not expecting perfection, but I would at least like to know what is causing the leanout. If I have huge injectors (nearly twice the size of stock), shouldnt the car run rich in any given situation? Does anyone else have this problem? Thanks! -Max BTW: This is in an s13, and once I downshift a gear to above 4000 rpm or so, she richens up to around 11:1-10:1 and RIPS!!! This motor makes me happy. Kbye

Hey guys, I just thought I'd add that your oil itself does not wear out ever, it is re-usable (this is why we recylce it). The reason we change oil is to get rid of harmfull deposites in the oil... If you dont change your filter everytime, its pretty pointless to do an oil change at all.. Not that it wouldnt help a little bit, but the small amount of extra money and work makes the oil change count. For the record, I use mobil 1 fully synthetic 10w 30, its about $40 USD for a case of 6 quarts (5 liters?), and a K&N filter.. try to change every 5k miles.

This is because the GT-R's that say the GT-RS is too laggy are running 2 GT-RS' turbo's. One GT-RS would be fine on an rb25. A gt2530 is a good responsive turbo... if you're running 2 of them on a GT-R lol. But really, this seems way too small for an RB25 single. GT-SS is again just a little too small. My vote is GT-RS or GT2871R. Good luck!

I was just curious, since I wont be doing my reflash until I find a larger maf.. Just good to know. I've got about 250 hp (almost 200kw), with this new turbo, and about a 2600 lb silvia.. She taps the limiter quite frequently

Doesnt that make either your tach or speedo not work anymore though?

What does the CA weigh then? What does the SR weigh? Provided their accessories are identical, and do not have transmissions. I got my information from a pretty reliable source. I do not have proof, but neither do you.. Could you get both motors on a scale to confirm?

The SR20 is heavier than the CA18. I havent personally weighed them, I remember a thread on HybridZ, I believe, that said the weights of certain motors.. The CA18 is physically smaller, which I believe makes up for the heavier Iron used in the block. "Often referred to as the four cylindered RB engine" "Due to superior head design (cam on bucket, as opposed to the flawed complex and heavy rocker arm actuation of later motors like the SR and QR), many enthusists consider the CA18DET to be the best engine platform since the FJ20ET that powered the legendary DR30 Skyline DOHC-RS." Why an SR lol...

I've used an autometer boost gauge in a celica GT-four. With the car off, it was at 2 psi. I've used autometer a couple other times, never was I impressed by their quality or convinced that the readings were correct. I bought GReddy electronic meters.. and one peak hold warn meter. They hurt my wallet but I dont regret it... Looking at a quality set of gauges everyday is really pleasing... I love my greddy's and am fully impressed by their quality and accuracy. I also like defi, apexi, blitz.. they all seem to be nice gauges, although I have never owned them personally.

Hey, I'm not skimping on anything.. I bought bigger injectors and broke 2 tips on them.. I have no choice but to run stock injectors for the time being, thats why I'm looking for a safe conservative boost level to run with the stock injectors. 200kw would be fine for me, as I have never driven my s13 past the 225 whp I was making before. 260whp would seem like light speed to me I'm sure. Theres no such thing as $200 GTR injectors in the states, not even in USD.

thats with the vacuum line unplugged correct?

If you want more power, invest in a GT30. kbye

Good to know, I dont want to reach quite that high of a duty cycle, but I also have a smaller turbo than you... I'll keep the boost around 16 psi and maybe take my fuel pressure up a few PSI. Thanks for the response! PS: do you have a dyno graph? and did you add fuel with your SAFC?

This is why I listed the specs on my turbo, and injectors... I'm not looking for an exact answer, but just a safe guestimate.. Thanks!

I figure this turbo I have might be comparable to a high flow in size, any comments? I'm pretty unsure of what sort of numbers I should see at what boost levels with this thing...

I have a garrett journal bearring t3. It *might* be a super 60 but I'm not sure about that. .60 AR Compressor housing .48 AR exhaust housing. Garrett claims 350 hp on they're current t3 with a .42 AR compressor housing. I'm just curious, as I broke a plastic tip off of one of my 450cc injectors, what sort of boost should I run with this new turbo on the factory injectors? I have an SAFC, HKS EVC, and will be using an AEM wideband. At this maximum safe boost level, what horsepower should I be making? My goal is 300 whp, but I figure that might be pushing it too far. Thanks! -Max

I've just been thinking today about manifold options and basically come to the conclusion that not only do I not want to pay $1000+ usd, but... what in the world would ever be sure to fit my application? LHD s13, very very large turbo, and still make for a reasonably shaped turbo elbow? Nothing! lol.. I think I'll be better off buying a decent welder and making a log manifold, DP, and the required IC piping. Thanks for the help everyone -Max

Just checked em out.. Horsepowerinabox makes an internally gated t3 flanged manifold, and I didnt see a t3 to t4 adapter flange... Another problem I have is that the motor is in an s13, and I am unsure if their manifold would fit with my LHD steering column. 6boost's website is under construction. Thanks for the suggestions! -Max

I have a really good deal pending on an absolutely huge turbo... I'd rather not say what it is, because... well, I dont need anyone to tell me how slow this thing's gonna spool. Hahaa.. I'm looking for turbo manifold options as the exhaust flange is a t4. Its also an externally gated turbo. Is there any particular reason why fabricating a 3-4 inch spacer, that converts to t4 flange, and has a wastegate flange attatched to it, would be a bad idea? I'm not too stoked about paying $1000+ usd for an aftermarket manifold just yet.. And I'm not very exited about that $100 ebay garbage... I'd like my stock manifold to work untill I can fab my own a little ways down the road.. Any suggestions? Thanks dudes! -Max

I agree the eagle rods might not be the best choice... The price reflects that... However, look at the crowd that would tell you there not the greatest rods. Rb26 owners I would imagine? When rb26 owners build a bottom end are they looking for it to hold up to 500 hp? I doubt it.. I know if I built an rb26, the block would be able to support 800+ hp easily. So what are your goals with your stroker? I'm sure these rods would hold up to anything your going to throw at them. Good luck with your build!

Theres a guy here in the states who had an rb25 with 595 rwhp in his Z car. Keyword *had* the internals held up for a while.. But man, thats pushing it... Thats a ton of horsepower even WITH a good tune.

Now go back and read my post, and tell me what the last paragraph talks about... Arguing the point of this being a decent upgrade for those on a budget, and are willing to go through the extra work. I did the cam swap due to lack of solid information, experimented, and then replaced them with the stock cams.. untill I can afford the lifters and gears. It seems as though you ignored the real points in my last response so you crack a few childish jokes... well we're all learning here, is it really necessary?

Oh my bad, you're right... Not being funny, just sarcastic. Yes perhaps I dont know everything, but contributing positively to the forum with unbias information should not be a target of rude sarcasm. Back on topic.. I believe that the Tomei solid lifters are under $400 for a set from nengun. I could be wrong.. If thats the truth, the complete cam upgrade would cost around $800 (US). $400 lifters, $170 cams, $150 gears. Its hard to find a set of USED cams here for $800, in the states... and if you prefer keeping some low end, gaining a notable amount of mid range and top end, want solid lifters, and want adjustable cam timing with the blingin colored gears... Then this is a great upgrade! Someone let me know if I'm not seeing something obvious that makes this a pointless upgrade = /

Funny joke, If you want to try to act smart next time, you could read my post and maybe understand what I said. Have you ever driven a car with messed up cam timing, of course its slow.. The rb26 cam lobe centers arent even the same degree as stock. Put a set of cam gears on it and set the timing, even to stock.. and if you dont think .7 mm higher lift and 8 degree longer duration is a worthwhile upgrade... well then you're retarded

Moved away for school, ran out of money... Put the stockers back in. I found out the lobe center angle is slightly off of the stock rb20 cam specs.. thus the massive overlap, horrible idle, and not much top end. If I didnt run out of money for cam gears I would have continued.. Cams are on the shelf untill I come across a few hundred $$. I dont want anyone to become discouraged about this swap, I'm still supporting the fact that its a very worthwhile upgrade. The second time I swapped cams I did it in about 1/5 the time.. Its easy, just use common sense... ...and get cam gears!

I already have the rb20 transmission, I realize that its pretty weak, but since I already have it.. I'll upgrade when I feel like spending $1000+ on an rb25 transmission... Yeah thats right they cost $1000+ in the states. The rb20 transmission will hold my power goals for now. As I am only concerned about getting the motor running properly on stock HP, before tear into modifying it. Thanks for the feedback guys! I appreciate it. -Max PS: would you ship that sump to the states?