sfitzy

Also interested in the tray... Pm me

can you send pics to [email protected]

Is the centre console lid thingy still for sale?

Thanks Darron...

Seperate sides use seperate fuses, weird!

I just noticed that the left hand side rear light don't work anymore.... these include the brake lights, reversing lights and tail lights... anyone with an electrical drawing out there? I'm thinking it could be some a dodgy connection or a fuse any ideas peoples?

both airbox and snorkel?

I have a series 1 R33 GTS-t and require an airbox and snorkel... preferably in Melb... open to all reasonable offers....

the larger you go in inlet piping the slower the gas velocity will be, therfore the slower the throttle response... Also at low rpm where the gas velocity is low, there could be an overly big pressure drop due to this slow gas velocity. Stay away from big piping, unless you are running high psi and high revs most of the time.

I've been doing 12.5l/100kms constantly for the last 6 months, thats for 1/2 city 1/2 freeway driving.... usually reads 340kms with a 1/4 tank left...

is this still for sale?

does the airbox include an intake snorkel?

what are the filter dimensions?

any photos?

Anyone know any good engineering workshops in Melb?

Shouldn't you do a bleed on the brake fluid and replace at the same time?

I've got a R33 GTS-T with only a pod and catback. It does betweem 11.5 -> 13 L / 100 kms. I usually use Mobil 8000 and sometimes Optimax... Hope this helps

does it come with tubing and adaptor?

Quick Question guys and girls.... Mags with thin spokes, anyone had any problems with them bending? I am looking at getting a set but I'm worried about that they could bend to easily due to the lack of metal supporting them from the centre. Comments and suggestions? Thanks in advance

Does anyone know the standard spring rates on an R33?

For four!

not after tyres just the rims! I've already had offers as lot as $220 Anyone else who wants to offload their old rims?

Puppaduck - Sweet mate, I won't grill ya! Wind chill is do with the affect of cold air over skin... liquid water on the skin evaporates drawing heat from your skin making you cold, airflow just makes this affect worse. Water sprayed onto intercoolers have the same affect, but you need liquid water. confak - Air/Air Intercoolers cannot cool below ambient. Assuming that the pressurized air leaving the turbo is held at a constant temperature, say 70oC. Say ambient is 25oC. As the temperature of the pressurized air flows through the intercooler its temperature drops, as the temperature drops the driving force for heat transfer (the temperature DT or the difference in ambient temperature and the air in the intercooler) starts to decrease. Assuming that the intercooler was infinitely large at some point the temperatures would be almost the same. However in real life the Intercooler has a set area, defined by its geometry. So the exit temperature out of the intercooler can only decrease to a temperature above ambient. I pose a question. If the air does go below ambient, then where is the heat from the pressurized air going? If there is nothing around the intercooler that is below ambient, then there is no temperature drving force, therefore it cannot go below ambient temperature. However add a water sprayer or dry ice then everything changes! I personally like the idea of an air/water intercooler, An intercooler the size of the one in a stock GTS-T can be made to be more effective than an air/air intercooler twice maybe three times its size! Its all to do with the heat transfer coefficients!

Send pics [email protected]

Go Engineers!!! Another one here.... All heat exchangers are bound by a relatively simple equation... Q = U A Dt Q = heat exchanged (kW or watts) U = Overall Heat transfer coefficient (based on the thermal properties of the fluid on both sides and the wall in between them) A = Area of the exchanger (m2) dT = Temperature difference, the temperature difference is the driving force that causes heat transfer. If your air/air exchanger is getting below ambient outlet temperatures then some thing has changed this equation or the method of measuring the temperatures is inaccurate. If below ambient temperatures you seek then you will need either water nozzles, dry ice etc. These would allow higher U values (Heat transfer coefficents) and should have lower initial temperatures. Otherwise the best you could do is a factor of the air/air exchangers size, location, environment conditions and driving style! Hope this helps...