OVL-747

i have a set of siemens 3145 750cc injectors for sale too small for new setup in my vl supported just under 500hp on 83% duty with the old setup. looking at $450 ono im in brisbane please reply here or pm , as i have no mobile

nissan designed their system to be run at 10psi or whatever the factory setting is. if you intend on running 20+ pound then you ultimately need to change a lot of stuff. i agree with a few views from different ppl in this discussion , but your ignition system is only as strong as its weakest link. in saying that , that goes for you driveline , fuel system , cooling system etc too.

you do have the fuel line going to the rail and not to the reg and the return line going to the reg and not the rail

it wont increase spool times but what it will do is increase effiency of the air to move thru the comp cover the air wont cavitate on itself over the harsh rough wall. think of running your fingers over 150grit sand paper as opposed to running them over normal computer paper , what would u prefer to do at high speed for a lengthy amount of time.

$600

why are you concerned about 3500-5000rpm if your chasing outright power. i mean , i understand its probably a street car and driveability is the main advantage ,therefore low/mid range is important, but if you want outright power at 7500 revs , then go for the greddy unit , with the short larger i/d runners. anyway i had my old vl turbo plenum/runners power ported , and made a very noticeable difference over the dead stock vlt setup. now with the newest setup on my car i have an aftermarket plenum , and that has also been thru the hands of andy sanders at specialised power porting. im a firm believer that it works. my compressor cover is also done.

yeah the 5671a-8's are a v groove , but theyre a non protruding plug. if anyone can be bothered and has a dyno at there hands , spend the 20 bux on a set and see what improvements it will make , back to back against your old plugs. other than that as described above , check for the usual afm , fuel pressure or filter , air leaks , exhaust back pressure. must admit i havent had a great deal to do with skylines , but vls do share very common problems with skylines

time has come to upgrade my cooler so i am selling the old one it is from www.are.com.au roughly 590x270x75 (core) with 2.5 inch inlet/outlet. it is in perfect condition looking at offers around $700 , value is around $1100

change your plugs completely use ngk's still , but the part number is along the lines of r5671a - 8 might be a little too cold for your car , so get one thats one range hotter.

sorry for the late notice but i should have a 32 gtr with 3 or 4 ppl in it

it all comes down to the fundamentals of the design etc of the core as to wether an intercooler will work or not. in saying that , it is a common misconception that bigger is better. more often than not a greater thickness of the core is required when the face (surface area of the core) is small. i am of the opinion that hybrid coolers suck , though im sure many upon many guys have them on cars producing 350 at the treads, which is their choice i geuss. remember that just because a cooler "flows" 500cfm , doesnt mean it will work , the way a cooler should. i mean a peice of down pipe from ur gutter flows 500cfm but does it cool air. if i was you , and judging by ur car and engine combo i wouldnt skimp in any area of its build up , go and buy a cooler and or a kit from www.are.com.au , i am biased towards that company as i have known the owner for a good 13-14 odd years now, and have seen numerous back to back tests and logging etc of various coolers, and also have one on my vl in other words , 400$ for a new cooler , no way , go spend that 400 on alcohol and waste ur money on something u will enjoy

ACL Duralite Pistons brand new pistons , rings and pins. 20thou or 1/2mm oversize they are to suit rb30et i bought them with the intention of building a vlt engine for my daily driver car , but decided not too. absolute perfect condition , brand new in the box. i have receipt but havent looked for it , though they cost 660 incl gst. want $500 ono

more than likely it is sequential injection.

oil will always run along the inside of a pipe rather than float in the air , so therefore if the breathers return before the comp wheel , then it will find its way and build up on the inside of the cover as the fotos state. a kink or blockage in the return line can also cause oil to back up , basically up and thru the chra , this can push out thru a seal aswell. personally with the motor going into ur car , i wouldnt trust that turbo , spend 500 quid and get it rebuilt , even if it is in perfect condition to start with , its peice of mind id prefer. ps - is this mick? cheers andrew

well i can gloat a little here , a long long time ago when it was in construction stages a lent a hand to help put the engine in - didnt do much , but was down there many afternoons with troy and brenno playin on it. but ur right about it being a family hauler - he gets the missus and 5? (i think its 5 now) kids in it

anyone out there with one

as title says , i am after a turbosmart 45mm gate , or a tial 38mm (or thereabouts) gate. prefer brissy but will cod if need be cheers

still here prefer brissy sale but may cod

one chap has pm'd me first i still have all four im at wynnum

i have 4 original dvds for sale HPI V1 and V2 - 2 volumes on one dvd HPI V3 and V4 - 2 volumes on one dvd HPI V7 - single dvd HPI V8 - single dvd all unscratched and work fine. v1 and v2 , v3 and v4 - retail for $40 each , im after $25 each v7 and v8 - retal for $35 , im after $20 each brissy only - pick up too pm me

or even an rb25de pump will suffice

wtd rb25det oil pump prefer brisbane sale email - [email protected]

sk - its not so much the i/d of the pipe , as its 2 ans 3/4 inch , but it has a conduluted plastic/rubber pipe , which is woefull on air flow. thats why i have pissed all mine off in favour of nice stainless , with no afm either.

why does everyone rave on about head studs , why not use the original stretch bolts , but use a torque to yeild ratio when tourqing them down. instead of just bolting it down to the specs in a work book. sydneykid - do u agree with me or do u see no need for it? and as for rod bolts , im still not sure if arp make ones to suit an rb30 rod , though a simple way around it is using sr20 bolts , just need to buy 2 sets (as there is four pairs in one set , 4 cyl's of course)

not so much the afm , but the rest of the inlet piping may cause a very high restriction , as seen on the test on the vl turbos inlet on autospeed. but i agree with u , correct size of afm for ur application and it wont hinder anything.