OVL-747

if u have a couple of em , and if they are genuine vl turbo manuals , wanna sell one?

ill second that

it isnt worth the hassle really , pending where the water tank is mounted , often its hidden down by the engine , thus heating the water considerably , turboluke , off calaisturbo forums , has done it to his , he has temp probes here and there , measuring cooler core temp amongst others , difference is minimal , and unless u set it up right ,and the car is a race car/track car its a waste of time.

33box is slightly better than the vlt box , pricewise isnt much between em , so it may be benifical getting a rb25 box. differences in the tailshaft yokes etc will need to be sorted out , but isnt much of a problem mind u , a rb20 box wont fit a rb30 , so there maybe issues fitting a 25 or 30 box to a 20

as unlikely as it sounds but a broken ringland/piston can cause a miss under load. whats ur fuel pressure regulator like? a flogged out dirty catalytic converter also can cause problems. this happened to me , i had a dry solder joint alomg my loom , midway along it too mind you , absolute prick to find. could be that

wazza its cool dude

well i am ever so sorry for my un-educated reply , i will try harder next time....................

mine cuts out im not too worried coz less than 3 weeks now and my autronic goes in so i will have no bloody afm to muck me around

go on get the td06 and a computer , thatd be awesome depending on ur age , racq may do fire n theft either way good effort at willowbank

something is tricking the computer into believeing that there is air coming in which needs more fuel to mix with , or ur injectors arent functioning correct and are staying open (elec problem) , or ur ignition circuit somewhere isnt right , might be as simple as a crank angle sensor , or it may be the loom plug that connects to ur coil/s. could be a pain in the arse to find or it could be right before ur eyes or u have a fault in the engines electrical side of it , maybe a slight un-earthed wire , causes it to stall etc. good luck hunting it down

i dont know about a skyline , but that is some pretty advanced timing mate u will wanna have a great fuel system to match it so as to not ping like a little hoe

it definately could be a fuel problem dude though it shouldnt happen if ur just slowing down or coasting anyway , sometimes depending on ur selection of turbo etc , when u back off pretty sharply the throttle body closes and all that ait goes back thru ur cooler , thru ur turbo and the out the afm , afm's meter the air that passes over the hotwire , so it doesnt matter which direction it is flowing , therefore it see's all this air and inturn tells the computer to squirt more fuel (supposedly to mix with the air) anyway , too much fuels dumped into cylindar m washes out spark , doesnt fire and stalls. but like i said it shouldnt happen if ur just slowing down , will happen if u gun it , back off and then slow down. try tapping the accelerator as suggested , keep the revs up a bit

i doubt u will get it done for any less than around the 1k mark try brisbane tuning and turbo

yes - thats why it is extremely common to "hiflo" a turbo , basically , the larger wheels can push a larger volume of air , but it still enters at 14psi. the more air (mixed with proper fuel setup of course) means greater combustion = more power. but in ur case id say the computer may be sensing too much air , not enuf fuel so it cuts out intermittently.

yes 14psi is 14psi , but there is a greater volume of air being pushed in , still at 14psi though. its very similar to an oil pump , take and rb30 and an rb30t pump , they both have the same oil pressure , but as the turbo pump is bigger it flows that wee bit more oil , needed for turbo etc but still at the same pressure

maybe not so much can be tuned with stock management , but cam and ignition timing can be fiddled with , easier than road testing. good to check afr's etc too.

good stuff most ppl neglect to do it , but even the smallest blow by , being re-entered into the intake system , dramatically reduces the octane of the air/fuel mixtures , and increses the risk of misfires to detonation. etc

im not very up to date with skyline ecu's etc , but with ur new turbo , it may reach the same psi , say 14 , as ur other one did , but the volume of air being pushed in will be far greater , due to the larger comp wheel etc etc etc. therefore too much air , not enuf fuel , the computer might know to shut itself down before something bad happens , like i said i dont know much about skyline equipment so i am probably off track

malpassi is a cheap mans way to overcome that little extra bit of fuel under wot , though it does work well. a little way i thought of reducing timing was to make an actuator retarded dizzy , similar to ur wastegate , it has an actuator which when boost rises it slightly pulls the dizzy back in turn retarding timing , it would take a lot of work to make it but i think it would work.

i was just stiring the pot mate , no harm intended. gijor33 again this has been trialed with a stock na rb30 vl , but there is a fella who made a twin tb intake for his vl , though he went to a different computer so as to not run air flow meters , but he actually made quite a noticeable improvement in power , maybe something like this would work on a rb25 aswell.

s14drift im just relating to this turbo as he said it has come off a vl turbo , in which it is oil and water cooled.

also the best place to plum a return line for a catch can is into the oil drain back from the bottom of ur turbo to the block. much much easier than having to drill/tap or weld to the sump etc.

dave well known auto mechanic Mr Chan does it for very cheap , maybe ask him to do it for ya , i heard thats where ur mate is goin to get it done

yeah i see where ur comin from i cant see why the stock 25 plenum shouldnt be used , id imagine itd be up to the job

$50 per mod is what a mate of mine was charged for his vl turbo engine , lsd rear end , 33 manual and upgraded brakes. $200 all up qld is the place to be