Strik3r

that might have been me.. what time ? i was driving south along bermuda at around 11.30pm or just before.

i'd say dumps too.. running bigger turbos on stock dump pipes is going to severly limit your boost building. on the down side i dont think that would be causing the misfire.. double check coilpacks if uve replaced spark plugs.. maybe spitfires are in order ?

I like pie too.. someone tell me why i only pulled 160rwkw on the dyno =\ FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, Pod Filter, Cold air intakes, Boost set to 12 psi, SAFC2 tuned. i was hoping for 180-190.. much disappointed It was on Matt Spry's dyno, which i know reads a little low, but was still expecting to hit 175-180 on it.. One thing that may provide some clues (tho im not sure how). When we did a run on the dyno with the SAFC2 zero'd, the AFR's were much higher than would be expeced from a stock ECU running 12PSI.. (like, A:F in the 13's)... we ended up tuning the SAFC to PLUS 5-10% air so it richened up the mixture more.. isn't it normally the other way around. And if so, what would cause the car to run lean like that ? Could it be the reason why im not seeing the power i should ? GO WHORETOWN TO THE RESCUE

p.s., best thing abotu whoretown is that you can come and not read anybody elses previous posts and just say what u want.. plus im bored at work and just feel like ranting somewhere..

who wants to know when its next going to rain ? just ask me when im next washing my car.. jesus christ.. the past 5 times i have washed my car and that very day (or the very next day) it rains.. and im not talking your nice spring sunshower, im talking grey skies, huge winds and rain that wets my car and causes leaves and dirt to stick to it and then dries and ends up looking like it hasnt been washed in a month. If and when i finally make my way to heaven im going to punch god in the face. *end rant*

so i managed to limp my car up to andy's to get a new radiator installed. As is always the case with these things, nothing went quite to plan Firstly, in the r33's, does anyone know what the temp sensor that goes into the bottom of the rad is for.. well obviously its measuring temp, but it doesnt seem to controll anything as the guage temp sensor is in the engine...... Atm we've left it disconnected but i wouldnt mind knowing what its supposed to be doing. Perhaps it controlls the secondary fan ? When installing the radiator, we ran into a problem.. the mounts at the top of the radiator didn't line up properly..... solution ? ZIP TIES !! anyway, will obviously try and sort out some new mounts in the next week or so. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes with a drill. Will let you all go how my new tune goes tomorrow. big thanks to bunta for the huge help he gave putting this in.. legend !

spotted DBR33 going north along ipswich road then onto cornwell. got behind him at the lights and beeped Love the SAU number plates !

do a search.... Short answer, you need to find an experienced tuner in your area to tune it for you. Depending on where you live, there are a few good ones around.

ah ok thats cool. does anyone know how these ones compare vs the stock cooler ? I'm not really in need of an upgrade as tihs car will never see more than 250kw at the wheels (goal within 18 months) but dont want troubles down the track will fire you a PM as soon as im home bunta - would love to have this sorted so matt spry can have another go on friday. thanks again.

bunta - yes please mate that would be awesome. has it been used much ? how would it/the JJ ones compare vs the standard r33 radiator (better im assuming?). Im not at home at the moment, but ill fire you a PM tonight/tomorrow to get some details and hopefully organize a date/time this week to get it. cheers

trying to do this on the cheap. ARE and PWR are a bit xx'y arent they ?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161157

yea i think i can put in a radiator myself so i guess i need to source one. Just Jap are out of stock on their r33 rads and i dun really wanna order one from nengun and wait 3 weeks (although the car should be quite driveable for a while - the leak is very slow). i might have to do some phoning around to see what people have.

stop dribbling here and post in my radiator thread !

except in the pants

seems it sold. ill have to be quicker next time

Skip first 2 paragraphs to get to the problem -> So i rocked up to matt spry's this morning all excited about getting my SAFC2 tuned.. was looking forward to enjoying some nice mid range power gain and seeing how the car pulled on the dyno. Matt did his normal engine checks before starting and noticed there was no water in the resovoir. Said might just be running a little low so he added a litre or so. Once he wired up all the sensors however, the water temp sensor was reading a little high for idle. he checked his settings, and put the car up to 2000 revs for a minute or so and the temp increased to about 100 degrees. He wasn't happy at this point so we turned it off and he started poking around the radiator hoses and noticed there didnt seem to be much water. Did a quick pressure test and immediately noticed it wasnt holding pressure. Put a squirt of water in there and once the system was pressurised again it started to bubble out the top of the radiator. (not in gushes, just a slight dribble). There were also some water stains around the top of the radiator and the surrounding areas. So to cut it down, my radiator has a leak in the top tank. The rubber seal along the top is also not in great nick. Matt said i had a few options.. I could price getting this one repaired, look at getting a replacement from a wreckers or something, or find a new aluminium one to get put in. The car is still driving, but i have to be careful and keep water with me at all times. But this does mean i cant really go for a long trip to get this all fixed, so whatever i do it has to be on the coast. Does anyone have any ball park figures for the different options i have ? Or any other alternatives? Also if anyone can recommend a radiator palce or a mechanic that would do a good job on this on the gold coast, would also be great. Gavin Wood is obviously first choice, but he is on the north gold coast, so i have to get it up there and then be without a car for a day or more. Also very glad I took it to matt and not an unknown. If someone didnt do all the checks matt had done, the problem would have easily gone unnoticed (dash temp guage never moved). Im guessing the problem hasn't been around for a long time or I would have noticed something. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers guys

hi ! hope to see you round the coast..

i got pulled over for a 'random inspection' about 2 weeks after i got my line. 'pop the hood please mate'. Cop was cool about it tho. Didnt even mention the front mount... just warned me that a some cops would give me grief about it. chatted to him for 10 min cause he owned a 300zx twin turbo about 5 year back with that list of mods, its only a question of time until you get done.. some of us get defected when our cars are LEGAL let alone when they arent Plum back your BOV for starters and you might escape detection..

i wont ask what you were looking at when u found that.....

FAHJIGJBAIFKOAFN ASS BASTARD SHIT f**k sorry.. bad morning at work.. i feel like going to the car park, hopping in the skyline and going home to sleep. I knew going clubbing last night was a bad idea, but who can refuse free drinks =\

spotted a white r33 heading down Bundall Rd this evening (~7.30pm).. well actually, he spotted me and beeped. I beeped back, hope you heard.

edit: LOL i thought this was for a GTS-t. dont mind me im a twit

yea sounds like ECU is in limp home mode..... if you've tripple checked the AFM, maybe disconnect the negative battery terminal and pump the brakes a few times to reset your ECU.....

have a look in the Classified section at the top of this forum.. if you don't find any in there that u like, check out the SAU Australia classifieds as well... you'll get a much better car/deal from here than any dealer will get you.