joe blo

http://youtu.be/McgdP52m9k0

Hang on vids coming

Hi mates I'm troubleshooting my car. Had some problems of what I beleieve was related to fuel filter, it wasn't flowing too good wen I removed it. I've put a new one in now. It's in a rb20. Fuel setup is the lift pump shown in the vid into surge tank then 044 into fuel filter to the fuel reg and rail and stuff. The lift pump is unknown and prob not a real good thing goin off the $29 price tag on the receipt I got with the car tho it obviously worked initially as made 330rwhp on a competent tuners dyno after tune. It's prob a couple years old now. I'm goin to change it to a carter black. My main reason for the post is for thoughts on the gauge flickering and losing pressure once motor is started. Also listening to the fuel pump varying in noise would that suggest anything? Maybe differing quantities of fuel being available to it? I believe the main noise if from the 044. Could be voltage differing to it tho The car was inconsistent in performance recently. Sometimes it would pull good and sometimes it would not right down like no fuel . Turning the boost down helped some but was still apparent. Thanks mates

Hi mates will I be able to run in a 25/30 on standard ecu? Wanna build one but won't have ecu injectors fuel pumps turbo and all that yet

Anyone else done one recently?

I wanna put a new lift pump in and beef up the wiring and fuel filter before I test drive it again

I replaced a 044 with a 044 so would think its the same tho the first one was prob china. Wouldn't the fuel reg accommodate any variances tho? I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, haven't done anything. My theory now is that the lift pump is dying and not keeping up enough allowing the 044 feed pump to drain the surge tank. Is that plausible. After some thinking the cutting out reminds me of pumping donuts in the old r33 without a surge tank back in the old days. Is that theory plausible? The receipt from 2012 for the lift pump was $30 new so it prob wasn't a real good thing to begin with but was doing the job at least initially

Any ideas mates?

On high boost it would cut in and out about 3 or 4 times in 200 metres. Low boost did it just once

Hi mates need some help troubleshooting my beast. Rb20 with gt35. Haltech e11v2. Gt35. Surge tank,044, unknown feed pump.21psi high boost 12psi low So I had it going good. Could pull through second gear on boost and slide all through second as long as you wanna hold it. One day it was going good apart from a coil pack clip broke on cylinder 1 and when it comes loose it would misfire. Only difference between that and the next day was I crimped the connectors down lore so it didn't come loose again and wasn't experiencing the misfire issue when new thing started. I took it to drags and from first run was having problems. Would pull through first and then in second the whole car would basically cut in and out enough to throw your head forward then back she. It came back on then forward when it cut out again. Turned it to low boost and it cut out once at the start if second gear then pulled the rest of about another hundred metres. Leads me to believe its fuel issue? Some details about fuel setup. I ran the tank pretty low on gas when I moved house about a week prior to issue starting. Went to start it about 2 days later and the 044 that was I. It was dead. Turned out to be a chinarie I believe. Didn't have any markings like the genuine 044 I replaced it with. Car was pulling all through second up the highway after replacement so not sure where problem is. Didn't drive for two more days after replacement and car running good the. Out fill tank of fuel in and went to drags. Could it possibly be fuel filter? Thanks mates

hi mates need to obtain a single rb20det injector northside brisbane

hi mates I need to obtain a single rb20det injector. northside brisbane

yea thought about nistune if I cant use same tune and repair ecu for around 400

does anyone on Brisbane northside have a laptop cable I can borrow sometime?

hi mates im just thinking about my haltech that stopped working in my rb20 hilux. does the map sensor get power from the ecu or somewhere else? its a external 3 bar haltech one. im trying to determine how dead the ecu is before I send it to haltech. it has around 5 volts at the map sensor wires. ecu does nothing else in regards to spark or injector pulse I haven't got a cable to hook up to laptop to see if anything is happening im hoping I can get the tune out of it once I get a cord or take car to the shop then send ecu away to be repaired.

hi mates. need to get a rb20det crank angle sensor from r32. prefer northside Brisbane. need it today. not as important but might get a r32 rb20det ecu also northside Brisbane thanks mates

Mmmm I could maybe test for power at map sensor. That should be powered up after ecu. Hopefully it's a power circuit

Yea il have a chat to them online tomorrow. Luckily they still test and repair e11v2. Was hoping to do some troubleshooting myself in the meantime.

I'm stuck for ideas on something I can test that gets power sent to it by the ecu so I can confirm ecu isn't dead. My thinning is that the 12 volt or whatever it is power at the injectors will still be there even if there was no ecu in the car and that the power I'm seeing at injectors isn't fed from the ecu and that only the switching is. Is that correct of is the power I'm reading at the injectors isn't from the ecu? If it is from ecu then I probably say its cas problem and I be a lot happier not worrying I have a dead 1000$ ecu and $600 tune

ok that test with my spare one doesn't do anything. trying to determine why my car stopped working. was hoping I could rule out ecu or cas somehow. its haltech e11v2 with patch loom plugin thing

ok that test with my spare one doesn't do anything. trying to determine why my car stopped working. was hoping I could rule out ecu or cas somehow. its haltech e11v2 with patch loom plugin thing

hi again mates. is there a test to check if a crank angle sensor should work without it on the car? its a rb20 one. Im trying to diagnose a problem with my car that wouldnt restart 2 seconds after it stalled. I have a spare I got with the car but its unknown condition and doesn't do anything when plugged into the loom on car

did some more testing. didn't need standard ecu. I checked it with multimeter. has power. what would be the next thing after the ecu I could check to make sure power is going out of the haltech ecu?

I've done some more looking and thinking. I hooked up spark plug to coil and prob have no spark. Then removed spark plug and no fuel on it I connected another cas I had (unconfirmed weather good or not tho) and turned it by hand with key in the on position. Nothing happened. No spark no injector noise. My next thinking is I want to check power getting to the ecu and then follow from there. Problem is the haltech e11v2 doesn't have any lights in it to see if its powered up. Is there a way to check power to it? It's a patch connector thing so the standard ecu plug is still there intact. I am now thinking of obtaining a standard rb20 ecu just to see if it lights up as my test for power getting to the ecu. Any other ideas mates? Just bought house. Ment to be selling car. dream boats f**ked

Yea probs bad. I suspect that because they just run constantly once turn the key. Doesn't turn off when priming. Hopefully my ecu isn't dead. I don't believe the e11v2 has any lights on it so can't get quick idea if its getting power