TTT

out bid me will ya.. *adds shabadu and abu to list*

there are devices that can tune the stalling issue out so I'm you're the excess fuel on throttle off can be 'tuned' out. I've found the best device to tune out the popping, farting, stalling, jerky transition between throttle on and off is a stock bov. I'm sure there are more expensive stuff out there if you're that way inclined.

CUBES you noob. the 'response' you're refering to can be had with a bov too. even with the stock bov. if you block off the little bleed hole on the stock bov which is there to open and shut the valve quicker and the cause of that constant shhh sound at part throttle, you will have the same 'response' on part throttle/through corners etc. aftermarket bovs don't have the little bleed hole. so if you get say a GFB plumback bov in place of the stocker, adjust it with the plumback part off so that it is 'just' closed at idle, plumb it all back up and go for a drive, it is exactly like having no bov while part throttle / on and off through corners type throttle, without the poping farting crap as with atmo bov or no bov. I've tried all kinds of things on my cars. no bovs, stock bovs, modified stock bovs, 2 bovs, one plumback while other atmo, just atmo etc. having done all that crap, "FOR ME" the stock bov is the best compromise. best drivability, cleanest rear bar , no stalling, no attention, no problems. I was happy to give up the millisecond of increased throttle response for a nicer car to drive. I think you and I shoudl go in business together. We could sell "gobble gobble" valves to everyone as endorsed by Nizpro and Coca Cola.

Important thing here is that someone has sorted the main issue with this thread, and added the required POLL item.

I see. It seems you've spent a bit of money on this rebuild. I wouldn't skimp now on an unknown part. Up to you. Maybe put up a wanted add here and maybe on Performance forums for an R33 GTR cooler.

hehehe Habib got done "habib" style. driving record gang rape for the win.

Maybe.. It was one of these.. http://www.allcarwallpapers.com/wallpapers...olf-gti-170.jpg Same colour and all that mesh stuff. not sure what year it is.

wait wait.. are you saying that's a "good car"?

true.. but a used electronic part, is a used electronic part. your current one is a "used AFM" if you get my drift. there isn't much to an AFM. as long as the wire in the element is clean and not broken, and the soldering points are not cracked, they will work fine. but for $50, it's probably handy to have a spare. then if you somehow manage to break it when doing what I said above (don't see how you could though), you could use the other one.

Never heard of "COOLING PRO".. Put it this way. I'm sure it will do a better job than the factory R32 GTST item. but if I could get an R33 GTR intercooler for the same price or better, I would get the GTR one. it's been well and truly tested for flow, cooling, pressure drop etc. Having said that, I've used a generic just jap style bar and plate china intercooler on my S14 with regular mods and it worked fine. it's up to you what you want.

I think the stock GTR cooler is about 65mm thick. You're sorted with what you've got already.. I wouldn't bother.. the way you posted, it sounded like you had stock gear and were looking for an upgrade for future plans.

http://www.skylinegts.co.uk/images/Parts/R32afm.jpg ok that's not your exact AFm but it's the same sort of thing.. Now, from that angle, the very top part of the AFM (the square box section), it is actaully a CAP. It is held in place by black automotive silicon. if you stick a stanley knife in to the gap around the cap, and cut all the way around all 4 edges, (you may need to go over it a couple of times), you will eventually be able to twist the blade while it's in there and pop the cap up. Once finished re-soldering the points, clean the old silicon off the cap and around the frame as much as you can and put it back on with some new black automotive silicon. this stuff can be purchased from bunnings or those Crazy Clarks type cheapo stores. it's in a toothpaste type casing. it's the same stuff that can be used to seal car windows...

Dick smith / Jay car type places sell little basic ones WITH solder for about $20. also, if you know anyone who has the same car as you, you can try their AFM first. 4 bolts and 1 clamp is all that needs to be removed.. that way you'll be certain that it's the AFM

Are you the transformer that transforms in to a noob?

R32 = RB20 R33 = RB25 as mentioned, stock turbo is of a T3 flange. in reality it is about the same specs as a T28 of and S14/S14 200sx. GTRGeoff is the user on here who has/had a twin turbo RB25. I believe he used the Stock GTR turbo's (which are of a T28 nature) Ask him for his experiences. if you must have twin turbo, just buy an RB26 instead. you get a better motor to start with too.

In australia, 18 year old daddy's boys argue on internet forums via their PDA while they are surrounded by sexy wiminz while at their skool formal

can't help you there.. I beat one in a stockish RS Liberty if that helps.

dude.. read the link I posted on the previous page. if it comes and goes, it's probably the electrical contacts in the AFM are cracked. they need re-soldering. if I can do it, I'm sure you can. believe me. You can't get it wrong.

They're crap man.. I'll give you $50 for them.

Andru + ^^^ GTR = MORGS sold car. Andru + 250rwkw+ R34 GTT = MORGS sold car.

If you are looking at 250rwkw of power, it might be wise to think about HEAT. the HEAT generated spinning up that sort fo power. will your stock finger thick radiator be up to the task? possibly just. but what about when you add a 100mm thick metal thing in front of it? how about the extra capacity of the even thicker intercooler and it's effect on throttle response? you're right about the end tanks on the generic $200 jobies. they are not that great. having said that, if I were in your shoes, I would be looking at an R33 GTR OEM intercooler with custom piping. People have easily got over 300rwkw with them. SydneyKid has posted about the pressure drop and temperature variations on his tests on this intercooler. it came up trumps up to about 300rwkw. AND, as an added bonus, it is tube and fin, which means plenty of air flow through the fins to cool the poor little pissant radiator behind it.

I love this forum.

LMAO at suggesting a series 5 rx7 to someone looking for fuel economy.

well it's now obvious you have money to throw around then by all means, go for gold. but why not stretch a little bit further and get an RB26? rb25 is going to set you back about $3K another thousand or maybe less and you could get an RB26. surely more capacity, better head, more potential power is worth the extra bit of money..... the point about "what a waste" was that you heard a ticking noise, a mechanic told you the engine is dead and you are now getting a new engine. what was the ticking? what has broken/blown if anything? does this mechanic have any RB experience? you sure it's not an injector? a lifter?

I guess 1450kg is a "bit" lighter than the GTR's 1460kg I've had one. unless it has something other than an RB20 in it, don't bother. just not enough torque to do anything right. I knew that before buying it and had planned to build an RB30/25 for it.. things changed, I sold it. Stag engines aren't that easy to come by. No you can't just use an RB25 out of any R33/34 skyline. You can use an RB26 no worries. but then after you've spent minimum $4K for engine and another $2K for the install and getting it running, you now have a car that is the same price as a GTR of the same vintage would have been and still NO GTR.