TTT

I'm not looking at buying an SAFC or any other bender. it was from another conversation that I started thinking about this point. Are we saying the percentage of correction it does is dependant on throttle position? 100% throttle might = 5% correction at 5000rpm but if it senses only 50% throttle it adjust by 2.5% at 5000rpm?

I think you mean you want to have a flutter sound right? remove your bov (2 bolts, 2 clamps) cut out a piece of sheet metal the same shape as the base of your bov and drill the holes for the 2 bolts. put that under the bov and plug it all back in as it was. now you have blocked off your bov and it looks stock. you will get flutter. then, once you get annoyed of the car not acting as it should, you can easily just remove the plate under the bov and be back to normal.

Bear with me on this one. SAFC (Super Air Flow Converter) is a device alot of people take to tune their cars. it cheap, it's effective and it's better than nothing. however, I have a question which came to mind during a conversation in another thread about the SAFC II and it having 2 maps. now. SAFC (or any other signal bending device like the Jaycar digital fuel adjuster) is wired in between the AFM and the ECU. the AFM reads the amount of air going in to the engine as it goes past the wire on it, and sends it to the ecu, the ecu then calculates how much fuel is needed for this amount of air according to it's programming from the factory. Right so far? As per my example in the other thread right? if you set your boost to 15 psi, get the SAFC tuned. the dyno operator runs the car as is on the dyno, gets a power curve plot up and a A:F plot. then looks at the rpm points across the bottom of the dyno printout and lines it up with the a:f points and makes adjustments on the SAFC to either make it bend the signal to make the ecu think it needs to add more or less fuel (make it richer or leaner) right? so what then happens if the owner of the car decides he only wants to run 10 psi during the week. what happens at the rpm points where the dyno operator has made changes via SAFC? at 10psi, the amount of air the AFM sees is different at each rpm point as it is when it is running 15psi. does the safc still send the ecu a signal that has the settings from the tune? in an example.. before tune 15psi, 5000rpm, AFM reads 300cfm of air, a:f ratio = 10.5:1... tuner plays with SAFC in to trick the ECU it's only 250cfm of air, ecu puts less fuel. after tune 15psi, 5000rpm, AFM reads 300cfm of air, SAFC bends this to say it's only 250cfm, a:f ratio = 12.0:1 you now have more power. driver decides to turn the boost down to 10psi 10psi, 5000rpm, AFM reads 200cfm of air. What happens next? does the SAFC still bend the signal at that rpm point? does this cause a lean out?

do you have a print out of your last dyno run showing a:f line? hae you made any modifications to the car since last tune?

I'll ask it in a new thread.

move to brisbane. problem solved.

there is not much to an AFM. if the wire on the element is still intack, then open the top lid, re-solder the points, dry the whole unit with a hair dryer and put it back on.. should work.

I thought there was a difference in clutches (push type and pull type) between R32 and R33 GTR's. also, I thought R33 GTR engine already had the right crank for an N1 oil pump and doesn't need a collar like the R32 did.

here is the link for the intake mod http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9&hl=intake stock ecu and 11 psi and pinging.. where exactly are you? just go to any dyno place to do a power run and ask to get a print out of your A:F ratio reading. normally a stock ecu'd R33 goes rich.. if your's is leaning out, it might be a fuel pump/filter/injector issue.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9&hl=intake

turbo tech is now about $35. there are install diagrams in that "$22" thread. hose goes in one side, another hose on the other side. done. electronic ones require a power, earth source at least. and cost more than double. the turbotech bleed valve is perfect for what you want. and very easy to install.

Yeh I know what it does.. but leave the 2 maps thing for now. regular SAFC just "bends" the signal from the AFM to the ECU. AFM reads x amount of air coming through and the stock ECU maps say, x amount of air requires y amount of fuel. SAFC jumps in between and goes "OMAGOD, bro, I swear ecu bro, der is only "z" amount of air cuming through uleh.. you gotta put less fuel in bro.." ECU goes "Me so solly.. I put in less fuel" and that is how you lean out the misture to make more power. but the thing is.. on the SAFC's, you can only make adjustments against the RPM chart. on the original blue screen SAFC, it is every 500rpm. on the newer one I think it's every 250rpm. so what I am trying to find out here is if the SAFC setting is static. does it always tell the ecu to take out x amount of fuel at a particular RPM you had made a setting at? even if you get to that RPM without boosting and therefore you have less "air" at that rpm? Might have to start another thread..

hmmm.. someone clarify this then. Are the SAFC settings static? I mean, if you tune a car with 18psi boost. it will have say 300CFM of air at 5000rpm and the ECU will add X amount of fuel to it. you can tune the amount of AIR flow the ecu sees via the safc so the ecu adjust the amount of fuel it dumps at that particular RPM. if you then lower the boost to 10psi, give it a hit, at 5000rpm, it will be sucking in say 200CFM of air. the setting you made at 5000rpm before via the SAFC (lets say you made it so it removed fuel by 3 points to get the A:F ratio at 5000rpm to 12.0:1), does it still remove the 3 points of fuel? All this may be confusing... 18psi boost @ 5000rpm = 300CFM of air 10psi boost @ 5000rpm = 200CFM of air you make a setting on the SAFC at 5000rpm point to make the ECU remove 3 points of fuel when tuning the 18psi run. what happens at 5000rpm when you run 10 psi?

safc II is not a boost controller. it can't set boost. it is a piggy back air:Fuel adjuster. it basically "modifies" the signal the AFM sends to the ECU to adjust the amount of Fuel the ecu puts in to the mixture. the ability to have 2 maps to me seems like a waste of time.. why would you want 2? a good one and a bad one? a good one and a better one? why wouldn't you just have the best tune you can and leave it?

the intake sucking closed can be fixed pretty cheap. search for "intake" by user "rev210" he had a little article about his simple and effective fix. also, if you could hear pinging while drag racing, with a helmet... it must have been pinging pretty farking badly.. and it would explain why the ecu woudl retard the timing so you couldn't kill the motor. I'd definitely have it checked on a dyno to see how the current tune is.. is it tuned? is there an aftermarket ecu in there?

if you get an R32 GTR, try to stretch your budget to buy one that has been rebuilt and has aftermarket turbo's/turbo. you would be silly or all cashed up to buy yourself a $18K 89 model R32 GTR with original engine and turn up the wick on those.. how much money you got to spend? if your car is worth $15K and you have another $10K lying around, you could get yourself a nicely built R32 GTR for $25K that only a handful of GTST's could come near in a straight line or around corners.

yeh it'll be hard to convince them it's stock. it should still run. stock afm, stock ecu, stock injectors will make it run. just not at it's best.

Even on minimum boost setting on that wastegate it will be around at least 7 psi.. 7 psi on that turbo would already out flow what the AFM is capable of. if you are off boost when driving, it MIGHT get you around. it will be a pig to drive, but if you are using stock injectors, afm, and ecu, it should still have standard emissions... but like I mentioned.. it will be a pig to drive around. Add a Z32 AFM to your list of things to get next month (unless of course the ECU you get uses a map sensor instead of an AFM)

Do the free things for a start. Clean AFM take out spark plugs and see if they are completely farked. If so, spend $30 for a set of new COPPER spark plugs. if you still have problems, look at replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter.

could be. are they NEW as in out of the box? or new as in New to you but are actually off another car. you could do a test.. Disconnect the wastegate vacuum lines off both turbo's and plug them up. then "CAREFULLY" go for a drive. make sure you keep your eye on the boost gauge as you give it some accelerator to load it up in gear. it it builds boost and gets up and boogies, then you know that the turbo's are fine and the wastegates working fine, and that they need to be adjusted. put all the vacuum lines back as it should be, then adjust the wastegate actuators as required. it would be easier on the dyno but can be done on the road.. a whole lot of driving, stopping, adjusting, then repeat till it is how you want.

stagea and R33 intercoolers are the same unit. R34 intercoolers are larger in every direction.. only by a little but still, enough to be a more efficient unit. the fact is this. the amount of boost you can run with your stock turbo, does not need a FMIC 600x300x75 generic intercooler. you can't boost it high enough to create enough heat to require that sort of cooling because the ceramic exhaust wheel will f**k up long before that happens. so the R34 smic is a perfect cheap solution. but you say to yourself, I might upgrade the turbo later. fair enough. when you upgrade the turbo to something bigger than a rb25 turbo, then you can sell your already modified r34 smic for $200 to some guy who wants an upgrade to his stock turbo'd rb20 and then add another $200 to buy yourself a FMIC kit. the other point to condsider is this. Most of these $400 fmic kits are Bar and Plate cores. this means ALOT of air is blocked from getting to the radiator compared to when it didn't have anything sitting in front of it. and if you look at your stock radiator, it's about as thick as your thumb. and if you are trusting your factory temp gauge which has a C and H marked on it for water temp, then you could come into problems. I'm not saying it will over heat. But unless you have an aftermarket water temp gauge or one of those consult things from a member on here which displays water temp via the stock ECU consult port, you will never know how much of an effect it has on water temp. You COULD get a tube and Fin cored intercooler like say from a GTR. or after market, but I am yet to see an aftermarket tube and fin FMIC kit for under $500. a GTR cooler will be about $200 (R32 gtr) then cusotm piping and brakets etc will cost you another $200+ Or you could get an aftermarket radiator. not sure on these prices. all this hassle for a FMIC on stock turbo. waste of time. Best upgrade for 200rwkw type power is an R34 SMIC. if you add water spray like someone mentioned, then even better. If I ever get another skyline that is the path I will take.

I had never heard of a "HKS GT30R" maybe go in to the "sticky" thread at the top of this section, for the RB25 power figures and search for hks gt30r in that thread to see if anyone here has one and have shown results. to be honest, sounds like a made up model.. as in someone is getting GT30 and HKS mixed up and has been spread around like say "bovs that make the flutter sound"

we're talking once it blows though. if you have a stock rb25 that you have spent $5K for bolt ons, and it pops, and you are about to bite the bullet for forged bottom end, N1 pumps, head porting etc where you are going to end up spending about $10K to have an internally tough rb25 and bolt your $5K worth of goods to it, you could spend that $10K to buy and build an RB26 (which has a much better head to start with) or an RB30 bottom end and RB26 head then bolt your $5K worth of goods to that. it ends up costing the same to build a forged RB of any kind. might as well go for the best you can get for the money. and for $10K, rb26/30 combo can't be beat.

Like it's been said mate.. just because someone is making 300rwkw with no problems, that doesn't mean that you will have the exact same outcome. you might, but there is always the chance that you will lunch your engine. yes - both engines are RB25's. but who knows what kind of life they've had. what kind of servicing they've had in the past 15 years before it came to you. If you want a "better" idea of how healthy your engine is, you should get a compression and leak down test done. if the results are all good, then you should then do safety precaution maintenance. new belts, injectors cleaned, new filters, new oils, etc. x psi or y psi doesn't mean shit. to get 240rwkw, the stock turbo (for example if it could stay together) would need to be pushed to massive PSI. a hiflow stock turbo will need like 15 psi. a Garrett GT30 would need only 10 psi. All examples above. the point is, saying, will x psi to make y power make my engine last long is useless. Boost pressure is just a measure of restriction. if you remove the restrictions, you can use less boost to make the same or more power. a large turbo is less of a restriction than a smaller turbo. therefore it needs less boost to make the power. Z32 AFM alows an aftermarket computer to be tuned at higher air flow levels. it converts air flow to VOLTS. it can measure up to 5.1V where as the rb25 and rb20 ones measure to 4.7V (I think) so essentially, there is more room for tuning at higher levels of air flow which in turn means more power (if you have the fueling to go with it) "GENERAL CONSENSUS" is that the RB25 is good for the power you want. the usual remarks about RB25 weak points are the piston ringlands. these seems to not like too much boost.

hope not.. But I doubt that's true. Well sorted car..