TTT

it pretty obvious what sort of life a 17 year old GTR has had.

We're not DISSIN it y0! we're stating facts. at least I was.

have a read of this.. sounds similar.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8437&hl=AFM my solution at the end.

if you think that you are going to get ANY 89 model R32 GTR's with original engine and not be up for a rebuild soon, you're kidding yourself. If you drive it around like you're in a camry, then it will live for ever.. but it's a GTR. Built to be driven in anger. and has been since 1989. so if you drive it like that aswell, you'll soon be doing the rebuild. If I ever buy a GTR (Not likely) I would buy it ONLY locally, ONLY after I've driven it, ONLY after I've inspected the documentation of the rebuild with receipts, ONLY after I've spoken to that workshop that built it to confirm. No-way in hell I'd import an unopened R32 GTR from Jap-pan. KM's mean nothing really. My current car has 315,000 on it. engine has been rebuilt once back in 2004 (with receipts) and I have confirmed this with the workshop.

surely someone has put their GTR on a weigh bridge. a proper read out. runnin gcondition, half a tank of gas. as youd drive it on the road. I agree with the extra weight. going from a 225x50x16 to a 245x45x17 will add a bit of weight in tyres alone. the bigger brakes would also add weight. I don't think that 20kg is that much of an issue when you consider the benefits of wider track, heaps better brakes etc.

would have been enough.. interesting though.. it seems they went up to 1500kg at that time.. it mentions the clutch change over but nothing about the crank etc.

you had a non turbo RB20 in there before?

Sorry man.. forgot to return it.. LMAO at the people who answered it since yesterday. MARSSS you douche... Stop trying to sell your skyline to a kid from 4 years ago who talks like Vanilla Ice.

DON'T BE A GIRLY MAN!!!

what a waste. I'll give you $50 for your so called "dead" RB20 motor. EDIT - I'll also keep an eye out in the for sale section for your car once you're finished the conversion and can't afford to keep it any more. a second hand RB20 motor in working condition would have cost you about $500 max. it would have all bolted in to place so the labour rates to a mechanic would have been maybe another $500 $1000 and you are back on the road in under 2 days. How much did you pay for the RB25? does it have any warranty (eg 1-3 months from date of install)? have you got a quote from a mechanic/workshop that is going to do the install? Did you get an RB25 gearbox?

AFM? Hotpipe as in you have a pipe going from turbo to throttle and no intercooler?

if it is the intake sucking closed, you can do the mod in the link above. it will cost you next to nothing. but the only way to see if it is sucking closed is on a dyno. or remove bonnet, strap a mate on the front guard, then go for a fang and ask him what he can see. could be fun..

nothing happens. you can plumback. I don't get what you mean. you will need a plumback bov, a return hose, and modify your intake between AFM and turbo to be able to plumb the bov return line in to. Or just buy a skyline intake pipe which already has the return line on it.

Yes, if one breaks the other CAN still stay on. and yes, they CAN both break off. how can you say that the flutter was the cause of the breakage on your turbo? you can't. One of my previous cars was a an ex-rally tx3. no bov. 15psi 30,000kms on the same turbo without a breakage.

I say stop trying to spin my words and take in the point that flutter will NOT DAMAGE THE EXHAUST WHEEL as you have said.

no.. all of the above "COULD" happen. different turbo's have different tollerances. they are not all built to the same specs (VF22 example). Point was that a damage that MIGHT happen by no bov/flutter would only be to the compressor wheel. it will not be the cause of broken exhaust wheel. ceramic exhaust wheel breakage is always due to a combo of heat and turbine shaft speed. these 2 cause the epoxy that holds the exhaust wheel to the shaft to delaminate let go. that's why as a general rule, people say not to boost stock skyline turbo's past 12psi. as any more than that on a stock turbo (example rb25 with stock turbo), and the heat generate is alot more, and so is the speed at which the turbo has to spin to create the set power/boost.

fair enough. I was refering to URAS's post about the increase in midrange over a bleed valve..

will the increase be worth the minimum $200 extra you'd pay for an ebc over the turbo tech valve?

no bov/tight bov = flutter right? flutter is the caused by the air that was SUPPOSED to be released from the bov. the air that went in from the air filter, through the FRONT wheel of the turbo, through the intercooler, to the throttle, that was supposed to come out of the bov when the throttle shut, has no where to goexcept back the way it came. therefore, through the intercooler, through the FRONT wheel of the turbo, past the AFM... etc. so, the air pressure that reversion (flutter) puts on the turbo is only one the front wheel. Skylines turbo's have ceramic EXHAUST wheels and steel front (COMPRESSOR) wheels. Series 2 r33 gtst and R34 gtt's have a ceramic exhaust wheel and a plastic (some form of plastic anyway) compressor wheel. the wheels are connected by the one shaft. You know when you buy a second hand turbo and people always say "it's got minimal shaft play" etc.. well there are 2 ways there could be play. side to side, or in and out (thrust). there is always some play in turbo's. when the turbo is boosting, it is sucking in the air and therefore it is pulling the wheel/air INWARDS. when you back off, it goes back to spinning freely. if you have no bov, the "reverting" air pushes against the turbo's COMPRESSOR wheel to try and escape. this push of air, thrusts the compressor wheel OUTWARDS. Long duration of this or high boost and this constant push pull on the compressor can wear it out and eventually cause the compressor wheel to touch the housing due to how much shaft play it has. and as you can guess, a turbo spinning at 100,000rpm + reversion + time = 100,000rpm spinning wheel hitting static compressor housing... could cause chip, could cause complete failure. one of the STI's stock turbo (VF22) is very well known for not liking to be fluttered.

no need for a review mate.. there is a 5 million page thread on it already

Hi Postman Pat. What year/month are you refering to for "late model"?

see in that guys pics of the bottom of the bov.. there is the large circle in th emiddle (the piston that is effectively the bov.. it opens and shuts) and then to the side there is a smaller circle. that is the screw he has put in there. a small wood screw does the trick. if that bov wasn't modifed, it would look like the bov on the right in this pic. http://herpetology.com/dsm/bov10e.jpg

that is old skool been around for like 5 years. why would you buy it when you can get a screw and stick it in there yourself? the little hole is there for a reason. it helps to open and shut the bov faster. if it's blocked, the car feels a little more jerky on the transition point from boost to vacuum. as in when you back off from the accelerator in a gradual fashion (like when you drive on the street)

No the stock gtst ones don't leak after 10 psi. No it doesn't matter which gtr bov you get. expect to pay about $150 for the pair or half that if someone is selling one.

gtr bov is plumback. it can "blow off" more air than the gtst one. but the gtst one is also good for well over 200rwkw. GTR's have 2 bovs as standard. they sit in the drivers side front guard. gtst owners usually upgrade to a single gtr bov. each gtr bov can breath more air and for this to happen, the OUTLET is larger in diameter. to fit to a gtst, it will bolt on to the stock gtst bov position, but you will have to get a larger diameter PLUMBACK line. NO, you can't vent the gtr bov to atmo. not having a bov will not break the back wheel of your turbo. if anything, it's the front wheel that "could" be damaged.