TTT

buy car go to CRD give them keys. give them account number and pin number. make sure account has $200K in it. come back 3 years later and pick up 1000kw gtr.

an rb25 turbo on an rb20 with about 14psi and a re-map of stock ecu will put you in the region of 180-190rwkw. some have got higher. and RB25 front cut or just engine even is going to be over $2K to begin with. Rb25/30 is useless unless you have a larger turbo to go with it. an RB25 turbo will almost be on boost at just over idle. so a hiflow or second hard GT turbo of some sort adds another $1K at least. everyone says (and I used to aswell till I searched for cost of parts and added it up), just get a $100 bottom end, bolt a rb25de head from an R32 to it, bolt your bits and you're done. but then you realise, oh yeh... gasket kit - $250 new timing belt - $100 new pulley/idler - $100 new water pump (might as well since the belt is off) - $250 new turbo - $1000 modify intercooler piping for the extra 34mm hight in block - $100 modify the exhaust for the extra height - $100 unless you can do ALL these yourself and have all the right tools to torque the head down correctly, you're looking at about $1000 or more for labour. then you gotta use your Rb20 AFM and ECU. AFM will max out quick smart. ECu will need to be re-mapped or replaced with PFC or similar. might aswell get the Z32 AFM. there goes another $1800 (rb20 PFC is rare and still around $1500) then tuning will be about $500 minimum then you have your car running. and damn it goes alright.. then, bang.. rattle rattle, crunch, crunch.. oh there goes the glass RB20 gearbox. let's pull together $1500 for an Rb25 box. hmm.. clutch could do with a refresh.. not to mention the flywheel. $400 RB20 $300 rb25 turbo $500 to get it in the car with new belts etc. problem solved.

that turbo breaking the engine thing only happens in GTR's. I don't see how a piece of the turbo can go through an intercooler and still be big enough to wedge open a throttle butterfly valve.

and so we enter in to "the R32 gtr game"

early rex, earlier RS lib. don't launch last for ever.. A mate sold his RS Lib for $9K and it was doing 1:10 on average around wakefield on road going 17's. best lap time on same tyres was 1:08:50 only had about 160awkw.

well you 'opened' a can of worms with the comment that removing/blocking the bov will cause him to break the turbo.

the 30/25 is NEVER as cheap as people make out. NEVER. if you want a cheap option, 30/25 is not for you. CHEAPEST option is fix what you got or get another rb20 block from forums or wreckers and put all your shit on it.

bro listen carefully as this is what you will need to do to fix the problem.. kjlljkdsre jklfsdiolkjer jklfsd klj sasaczx m.rs m,.m,.sdf kl mmkl;fsd m,..m,klj dfsm,.m,.kl You should be able to understand that. Hope that helps.

What?

Cause it's a turbo designed for a 3L and he had it on an Rb20. it's not a good turbo for it. but as you said, it's not a VG30 turbo so I'm not sure what it's from then.

it's not a stock RB20 or RB25 turbo. possibly a stock VG30 which would explain the crappy spool time followed by crappy top end. Stock RB20 turbom from silver top RB20 has 16v on the compressor cover. stock RB25 turbo's have either 42v3 or similar on the comp cover. exhaust wheel looks to be ceramic still. but it is definitely bigger than the 20 and 25 wheels.

the gain funciton on the controller is to adjust how fast boost comes on.. i don't think that it will hold it up top

it's been said before.. if you take your AFm off, remove the black sealant on the top, remove the black cap, re-solder the afm wires that are in there, seal it back up and plug it all back in, it will be like new. as long as the wire element in the AFm is also clean. so clean, re-solder it, new AFM

then why don't you just hold the shifter on the shaft near the base to do the shifting.. you should be used to that...

you say 3 inch exhaust. what exhaust? what dump pipe? what cat?

man.. he must have sensed his name mentioned.. hahahaha

see it helps that you mention it's a drift car. Then I wouldn't have said it's crap because it's tuned and still rich. Speak with CEFFIE from these forums. he burns his own remaps so he may be of some assistance here and may have come across it before.

don't speak in yugoslav to me young lady

mate that is crap. don't worry about the power figure so much. all dyno's will read different. but that A:F graph is crap.

^^^ bahahahaha

that graph is the "after tuning" graph? *crosses another workshop off the list*

Give that damn can opener... idiot

at that boost level, the turbo is on the "any day now" side of death. motor should be fine if the fuel and timing is fine. People always love pushing the envelope which is fine if they have a spare envelope lying around.

why would one still think that when one's seen these come up over and over? One would learn lesson wouldn't one?

take photos of front and back of turbo and post here. and no.. I don't know of any place in auckland that hiflows turbos.. but I bet there is a hiflow business called "Choice bro flows"