TTT

whatever the f**k you want to call it. to resolve it, you need more resolution and tuning. PFC + Z32 AFM + tuning = problem solved. I should have been a mathamcmatics teacher.

Bite my arse moon pie

bump - updates please "Mr. I'm-gunna-have-to-marry-the-daughter-of-an-oil-sheik"

the number of times the words Skyline and missfire or skyline and splutter get posted on here is unbelievable. it is all too common. and therefore, there are all too common checks you can do. coil packs spark plugs afm those 3 are the easiest to check and cheapest to fix. plugs - cost you $4 each AFM - can be cleaned using electric contact cleaner and while it's off the car, you can take the top off and re- solder the contacts in them. Coil packs - you can do a cheap job and tape them all up with electrical tape. or, next time it splutters, pull over and unplug coil packs one at a time to see if the splutter gets worse or doesn't change. if it gets worse, that particular coil pack is working. if it doesn't change, then that particualr coil pack is faulty. change just that one. if you got more cash, get some split fire coils. fuel pump - possibly an issue. - new BOSCH one couldn't be much more than $300. fuel filter - should be under $50 for a new one. worth changing. they are the most LIKELY causes which you can check/fix/replace yourself for not much money.

well rich and retard sounds like a retarded term to describe a complete "CUT" situation. if your car runs rich, it uses more fuel and doesn't feel as resposive. if the timing is retarded then it is a similar feeling. so are you telling me that if you were on a dyno, accelerating and the power figure goes up, A:F ratio starts to come out of closed loop, goes down towards, 12:1, 11:1 etc, then when you are at max torque and you hit your inappropriately named "R&R", then the car would "CUT" and the AFM line on the dyno graph would all of a sudden flat line at 10:1 like a dead persons heart rate monitor? I just think that R&R is not the correct term to describe the complete BRUTAL shutdown that happens.

I was under the impression that if your ECU "richens up the fuel mixture" and "retards timing" to prevent damage, then you would lose performance and possibly feel a little doughy when right up the revs. what he is describing is very similar to the issue I had with my S14 and my R32 GTS4. my AFM plug connection in the S14 was a little frayed. and when I had to go to a pod from an air box due to FMIC, I hadn't mounted the pod securely for the 2 weeks. and if I was accelerating and hit a crack in the road (parramatta rd in sydney) it would completely CUT all forward acceleration for a second then come back. almost puts your head through the windscreen. my R32 GTS4 on the other hand was a similar thing but it would do the same thing as it came on boost. the problem with that one was a dirty AFM "AND" the soldering on the AFM was cracked and would move a little with movements while driving. NOT R&R. it is some form of cut due to the AFM. wether it is cutting because it is faulty or maxed out I don't know in your case. why not rule it out. take it off, spray it with electrical contact cleaner, also take the top of it off and resolder the joints. seal it back up, put it back on the car and go for a drive. soldering iron and solder can be bought for $20 from tandy. they will probably have electrical contact cleaner too for another $10. Kmart, bunnings or any $2 shop will have auto sealant silicon (it's like regular silicon but it is BLACK) for about $5. comes in a toothpaste type tube.

r34 smic problem solved.

don't worry about it man.. it will stop cutting out soon with that sort of boost level. it will stop cutting out for good.

They should have been at WSID in uniform. that way, people there will see them and not do anything stupid afterwards. but they decided to be sneaky instead. oh well. sucks to be a sydneysider!! hahahaha

footage from WSID.. is this SECURITY's car? you'll see which one I mean.. tv star bro

Unigroup Engineering. http://www.unigroup.com.au/contactus.htm

here's mine.. wssssssssssshshhshshshshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaaaarrrgrggghhhhh f*king woosh sic!!

Play station or xbox for the win

I "kinda" feel sorry for this guy. thinking the sharade was a money pit then talking about a low km, "mickey mouse" R32 gtr. "KINDA" because we all tried to tell him and he doesn't listen. "obviously" you know your cars as you have said, and can just put a bov on it and drive around for a few years and get your money back. a VR4 with exhaust and filter will do to your charade what bankstown boys get jailed for. and it will cost under $8K there was recently a 280awkw VR4 for $12K anyway, my point is your 2 optins of gtr and gtir are no good. they are not cheap cars to own or maintain. they are old, they WILL break, they will cost a lot to repair. Oil and oil filter changes cost the same on almost all cars. but a clutch upgrade on a GTIR is an "Engine out" job. and why would you put a stock clutch back in when you are doing it.. so the price doubles for just the clutch. then the labour.. If you think the charade was a money pit, you are about to enter the hi-rollers table in terms of money

^^^ time to take your meds obviously.

who the hell is selling the car? Rossman or Sarah?

try reving to 8532rpm and holding it for 13.4 seconds.. it gives off mad sounds.. much better than sex..

no-one said he was a bogan Uleh!!!

I didn't hear a bov.. and I know you didn't hear one either.. Do I have to explain it yet again?

fight your own battles you little pencil neck!!!

If you "MUST" rev your car and make bov noise bryan Spillner stylez, you can do it. but because there is no load, you need to do it in a weird way. if you just plant your foot and release it probably won't do it. if you rev, then release and as it comes down, rev again and release, it will give you the Fast and furious effect you are obviously after. NOTE: this will not magically generate nos pergers out the front bar up broad minded persons skirts..

pfft. buy 6 new spark plugs. - $30 new oil and filter - $80 put those in before you go for the tune.

$20K GTR is not the way to go. $12K gtir is not the way to go. both are expensive to maintain. $12K GTiR will cost you another $5K to sort out to something decent. $20K gtr will cost another $5K to replace all the things mentioned just before if you want traction and on the cheap, perhaps look at a Lancer GSR, galant VR4, early rex. they are definitely cheaper to maintain. 4wd and turbo and will tear your 14 second charade a new anal passage

^^^ how many monies you got to spend? GCG cost around $2K ball bearing etc. if you just need to get back on the road, just buy another stock R33 turbo from these forums. should set you back about $300 - $400 and time to swap all over.

yes they are interchangable. swap and see if the miss goes to the next cylinder with it.