mtam22

etang, fellow GTR owner from HK. Congrats on your purchase, I saw the ad on 28car and you got to it before I did! May I ask where are you getting your HKS Fcon tuned in HK? I'm running 2530s and the dyno map looks rather flat in the mid range. Grateful for thoughts from other forum members on whether this is a normal curve for 2530s. Thanks

The Techedge wideband costs less than half that and it's an Aussie product. You may also be interested in reading about Julian Edgar's article on autospeed.com.au comparing the virtues of standalones vs. piggybacks. Fact that you don't see any sub 10 sec car running e-manage is no proof that they aren't competent in achieving what they are designed to do -- that is, easily tunable by user and offer full authority over fuel and ignition. I've never seen a F1 McLaren doing sub 10sec run is no testimony that they can't. In any event, I thought what's being discussed here is a suitable ECU for everyday tuning and not extreme applications like 10sec. E-manage won't be the right tool for extreme applications like that as you'll be talking about injectors that are at least twice the flow of the originals. The e-manage can handle no more than 150% increase. I don't dispute the usefulness of standalones. Horses for courses and there's no best computer to suit all application. To wit, the e-manage suits my Mkiv TT perfectly as I run 25% larger injectors and I'm keeping the factory turbos. Harness is fresh and the Jspec car already runs MAP sensor. It's the optimum solution for this application and I need no more. The e-manage won't be the solution for my RX7 as the main harness is getting old and brittle and I need it replaced. Instead of paying ridiculous money for a factory harness, I'm getting a Haltech E6X to replace the whole system for about the price of a factory harness. I need to get rid of the MAFs on my 32GTR as they are a big restriction on the TD05s so I'm planning on getting the Haltech E11 which can be run in a piggyback configuration to retain all factory electronic options and a MAP sensor to get rid of the MAFs. And I only need a chip upgrade for my Escort Cosworth because Ahmed Bayjoo makes a rally tuned ECU/injectors/3bar MAP sensor package that provides a perfectly tuned 330hp with no additional wiring or fiddling around. As you can see, specific situations require specific solution. My comment on the e-manage is a general statement assuming that you're just looking into squeezing a bit more performance from the open loop end of the ECU operation by raising your A/Fs from the low 10s to 12 or 13s. The e-manage is totally capable of acheiving and that's all that I'm saying. Incidentally, can't see any reason why anyone needs the e-manage for VTECs and hope it doesn't disappoint you that I never owned one.

What makes you think a standalone is superior to piggyback? Well, it is not. With the e-manage you have full control over fuel (within 150% of original injector sizes) , timing advance/retardation, boost, and can datalog injector cycle etc. You can't even datalog with your powerfc let alone see the whole 16x16 fuel and ignition map. Don't think you can handle additional injectors with the powerfc either. With the powerfc, you need to go to an authorised dealer with the Apexi excel software to tune. With the e-manage, all you need is a laptop, a disc, and a wideband O2 to do what was hitherto, doable by a professional tuner only. Don't forget, with he powerfc, you have to factor in initial tuning costs and the recurring tuning costs everytime you do some major power upgrade. If you must go standalone, the only logical and economical solution is the Haltech. You'd want to do that if (i) your existing harness is tired and old anyway and you want to renew all sensors, (ii) you want to get rid of those restrictive air flow sensors, (iii) you need datalogging on more than just rpm, throttle position, injector cycles etc that the e-manage offer, (iv) you want to run NOS, (v) you're running mega injectors that are more than 150% the original flow. None of this minds you, is acheivable with the so called standalone power fc.

?? E-manage is definitely way cheaper than a powerfc with commander. Even with the commander, you can't do half as much tuning yourself with the powerfc than the e-manage. I've played with the S-AFC for a year and cannot get it to control my larger injectors. I got the e-manage installed in three hours doing alll work myself. Tuning is a piece of cake with a laptop and I get a nice 14.5 A/F from idle to 4,000 and 12.5 from thereon to redline. Mid range and high end improved out of sight compared to the fuel rich setup before. The e-manage is definitely the best bang for the buck out there and way ahead of the S-AFC and powerfc if you like to do your own tuning.

Thanks. Sorry for being so pedantic but have you tried this or got this info from literature posted elsewhere? Reason I ask is a friend insisted the e-manage MAP sensor is used exclusively by e-manage to control wastegate. It'll still look to the factory MAP sensor for fuel control purpose. Doesn't make sense to me why the e-manage would want to deal with two MAP values hence my question.

I think the MAP sensor in my Supra can't read more than 1.3 bar. Does anyone know if using the optional 3 bar MAP sensor with the e-manage can help the injectors to fire correctly beyond 1.3 bar? Or is the e-manage 3 bar MAP sensor good for controlling the wastegate/actuator only?

Are the cops similarly tight in Sydney? I'm worried as the cops are catching up on us in Hong Kong. My plan was to ship the cars home as soon as they get defected. Now it seems like there's no where to hide. Just last week, my car got defected because the letters on my number plate are placed too close together. That by itself is easy to fix but the Gestopos might yet issue me a notice to have the car examined... fxxx!

Will these fit the 32 GTR? The original injectors are top feed low impedance. Good if you could post pics just to be sure.

...and that person needs to be a PR or citizen of Australia as well I suppose.....

I wish people will just stopping trashing the Supra's handling without trying to really understand the car. Granted a stock Supra's suspension setup is soft like a cruiser and its immense torque and frightening straight line capability only amplifies the perception that Supras are tail happy but any owner who has a basic understanding on car handling should know that the situation can be easily remedied with a set of sway bars, stiffer suspension, and a harder locking LSD (TRD clutch types). Once the suspension is thus sorted, a BPU++ Supra running stock twins can easily outrun GTRs running anything less than a pair of 2530 twins. I'm not just talking about straight line performance, my assertion is equally appcliable to mountain circuits. Why? It's all in the 2JZ's torque. Neither the GTR nor the Supra are featherweights and leaving the 4wd business out of the discussion for the time being (see later), in road races cars at similar power levels should not have a clear advantage over the other in the straights. It is the corners that sorts the good from the not so good. The 2JZ's immense torque allows average drivers like myself to be less precise with keeping the rpm within a narrow range when braking for a corner and be less precise on when to gun the throttle for the exits cos I know it's a pretty flat torque curve from 2,500 onwards. With my R (granted it runs a bloody laggy pair of TD05s but there should be no argument that the RB lacks torque below 4k), I'll have to be a lot more focused on not overbraking before a corner and dropping the rpms out of the sweet zone. But the GTR is a 4wd hence traction must be better around corners? Undoubtedly, for a professional driver who's taking both cars to 9/10ths of their capabilities, the GTR will be the car to have. In real life situations however, you're really doing very silly things to activate all 4 paws on a GTR around corners. I'm the first to admit I have neither the guts nor the skills to gun the GTR into corners at speed that'll activate the 4wd. Look at your torque meter and notice when it starts to swing. If that's not enough proof read Julian Edgar's article on Autospeed. IMHO, for any driver without substantial track experience, the only advantage of the GTR's 4wd system is on launch. In this department, even my constant 4wd Escort Cosworth with "only" 330hp would win the TT hands down (4.2 sec as compared to a best of 4.7 for the TT). So why am I bitching like this at the Skyline forum and why don't I just f*off with my TT and crawl back under the stone I came from? I'm by no means trashing the GTR or else I wouldn't be here begging for opinions from knowledgebles like Sydneykid et al on what to do with the R. Is Girl A better than Girl B, pardon my vulgarity, functionally they have the same orifices but you have to assess the whole package and get to appreciate her for who she is. That philosophy applies to cars as well and no one's going to get me to say whether the RX7 is a better car than the Supra, or the GTR a better car than the Cosworth. The 2JZ's long stroke is good for torque but a shit engine to wring rpms beyond 8k. Like CNG says, the 6 speed is an overkill for an engine of this design. In 3rd, the Supra tops out at 140kph and while you snatch for 4th, a similarly powered GTR will shoot past you in 3rd singing happily to 180kph. I'm just venting because I'm tired of hearing people vilifying the credibility of the Supra because of unsubstantiated hearsays. The Supra DESERVES a much better place in history than it's currently afforded outside of the US. May the hearsays RIP and God Bless you'll never hear from me whinging on the same topic again. Michael

Wouldn't dirty injectors REDUCE fuel economy if it's "peeing" rather than spraying?

Thanks for all your advice. More questions. Would a high lift (say 10.5) cam help spool up? My car' comes with a mechanical Greddy boost controller and I wonder whether installing an electronic boost controller may be a more effective way of ensuring that there is no leak at the wastegate at lower boost pressure? How safe do you think I am running the N1s or HKS Kansai GT-SS without laying a finger on the engine's internals? Rgds Michael

Standard FD3s comes with 550cc for the primaries and 880cc for the secondaries. Can't remember whether they are top feed or side feed though. Not sure about impedance either.

Anyone knows whether these will fit the GTR?

What's the best streetable clutch for holding apr. 500 rwhp then?

Sorry for the double post, I thought the first one didn't get through.

As some of you might know, my 32 comes with a pair of TD05Hs but the previous owner removed the additional injector holder and just let it run with the six stock 440cc injectors when the car was sold to me. Boost is now turned way down to 1 bar and my eyes are constantly on the EGT while I am still undecided on what size injectors to upgrade to, answer to which is dependent on whether I'm going to dump the TD05Hs for smaller faster spooling N1 turbos or retain the TD05s. Anyway, I've never seen my EGTs going above 700C even on full boost (1 bar) but each time I get out of the car after a moderately spirited drive, I can smell metal burning and that concerns me. Question I have is -- is it possible to melt a piston when the EGTs are well within 700C?

I just rewired my R32 last weekend so I'm not going to take the panels off again but I'll be doing my Supra tonight and I don't mind taking a few pics. They're all the same, no magic in it.

I've tried the HKS twin and its not as on/off as the Exedy or OS kit. The HKS's on/off is something I can live with but not the Exedy or the OS giken.

Anyone got experience with this particular item? A friend's offering to sell his but as it's taken out of his car, I've no way to tell how user-friendly this is. He assured me the take up is similar to HKS double plates but by the look of the setup (no spring), it looks more like a total on/off thing that must be a bitch to drive on the road.

Would 264/264 cams go well with the TD05Hs? Where can I get the smaller 16G housings, how much, and do I need to change the turbines as well? I've got two camps of friends giving me opposite advices. The N1 camp advocates dropping the TD05Hs. Pros they stated are: 1. Faster spool up, lot more fun and usable on the street 2. Engine wear will be a lot less severe than TD05Hs even if the N1s are run at 1.5 bar because power delivery is more linear and less brutal than the TD05Hs 3. Easier to control fuel And on the other corner... the TD05H advocates: 1. Easily double the power of the N1s 2. It's already on the car there's no point purchasing all the stock manifolds, intercooler and downpipes again 3. Horses for courses, a high revving TD05 GTR will supplement my mkiv TT which is more suited for low/mid rpm street races The shop that sold me the car will take back my engine in excellent condition engine for apr. AUS$1,700 and sell me a used but also excellent condition 2.8 lit (Trust piston/Trust conrod/N1 oil pump/Nismo water pump/ ported head with 264/264 cam) for apr. AUS$5,000. Seems like the 2.8lit is a much safer platform to build up my R rather than spending the money on N1 turbos don't you think?

No no Hippy, don't take out the glovebox. All you need to take off are the door panels to run a coat hanger thru the rubber gommet. Do this once and you'll realise how simple the job is. If you're not running an amp and assuming that your existing wires are not frayed, changing the wires won't help your sound environment at all. If you're running amps and 6" components up front of 30RMS or more per side, then changing the wires to thicker guage will make a noticeable difference.

I've just finished installing a pair of Blaupunkt VR2100 amps (2x200WRMS each) in the trunk. Before I managed to install the capacitors, I start hearing tales from my friends on how such a pair of power hungry amps could destroy my ECU and alternator even with two 1.5F caps installed. Any truth in this?

Get a piece of wire, run this through the inside of the door through the rubber grommet and into the car. Stick your speaker wire to one end of the wire and pull it through from the seat well.

Guys, I'm at a cross road on what to do with the 32 GTR I just bought. The previous owner swapped out the original 2.8 litre before he sold the car so I'm left with a setup as follows: Stock engine in very good condition Pair of Trust TD05H-18G with twin downpipe and wastegate Matching twin entry Trust intercooler for the TD05Hs Stock fuel system Trust mechanical boost controller running 1 bar Greddy AIC but disabled and injector holder removed Trust ECU allegedly programed for stock system and need to work with AIC Turbo lag is horrible with this setup with no boost in 1st gear until 5,500 rpm. Engine willingly spins to 9,500rpm. I'm undecided between the following options: 1. Cheap option and keep TD05H -- Get 264/264 cam, upgrade injectors to 550cc and Tomei ECU matched to this setup. Up boost to 1.4 bar. Leave engine standard. 2. Expensive option and keep TD05H -- Get a ready built 2.7litre engine with forged piston, N1 oil pump and N1 water pump. Stock conrod, stock crank with new N1 bushings. Turn boost up to 1.6 bar. No money left for cams 3. Dump TD05H and revert to stock turbos or upgrade N1 turbos -- Need to replace intercooler plus all piping. Upgrade to 550cc injecto and turn boost up to 1.5 bar. Fast response, lower top end and wasted the TD05s. I want a street car not a drag car and need to lower the boost rpm to around 4,500 rpm. Are the TD05s capable of boosting this early? If I leave the engine stock, how many horses do you think it can take?