m0rt

I almost had to replace mine but the panel beaters managed to fix it, couldn't find the sheet with all the prices i had, but some of them were; Asian Auto spares in slacks creek all automotive import parts in seventeen mile rocks all jap in virginia and underwood any jap spares in brendale a1 nissan wrecking in coopers plains hope that helps, if you can't be bothered lookin for numbers and addresses give us a hoy i've got them to

Fri 26th spotted a white 33 leavin zest in jindalee at bout 5 pm and a grey 32 and a red 32 near the sumners rd round a bout (with the cattletex)

I found out that the -3/+3 is some form of calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature

scratch that i found the ansewrs on a R34 manual i have, forgot to write my origional problem, when at 18 the air is nice and cool, as soon as 19 is selected its all hot and stuff, would i be lookin in the right direction if i started pokin around at the air mixer door area???

okz, mine is startin to annoy me, i've done the test get 25 which i know don't worry bout, get 30 then i go into the 4 range and it goes from 41 to 46 fan speed changes and stuff, then i get into a 5 range where if i push the window demist button it displays 29 i push it agian it shows 26 and again then it goes back to 5, if i push the fan button it comes up with 0, pushing temp down allows a minimum of -3 and temp up allows max of 3 does any one know waht this is?? And how do you get FC to come up do you need a/c on?? eng running??

tried ebay?? i've seen them on there prob last month

I managed to find it earlier but can't find the thread again luckaly i wrote it down to check it out; 1. Hold your off button down for 5 sec or until diagnostic mode begins, must be done in first 10sec of engine starting 2. Press heat button (red triangle) once to enter sensor check diagnostic, if it returns with code 20 everything is a-ok 3. press heat button again it will enter door possition mode (motor that switches vent/s air is blown), if it returns code 30 well its all good 4. To exit diagnostic mode press auto. So far i have only managed to find the other codes for sensor check diagnostic they are 20; all is good 21; outside air sensor 22; inside air sensor 23; water temp sensor 24; intake temp sensor 25; sunload sensor (located on dash l/h side near windscreen) 26; PBR (potential ballast resistor) 27 refigerant sensor hope this helps

I duuno if this helps but my car was doing the same thing and for me it turned out to be one of my Irridum spark plugs had cracked the metal shaft running throu the plug

Hopefully way less than 2000

DOn't spose you know where one is hiding do you?? Just rang a few places for a new core and its almost cheaper to get a new kit and sell the pipe off, 269 is the cheapest so far for bar n plate

Well, thought i might put in an update. Pulled off the front bar today and the fmic is a write off, it has twisted the core, so time to spend more money again (yay). Have managed to pick up a gtr bar for 200 and a bonnet for 130 so from my end she should be back on the road sooner than i thought :PBJ:

I just put ians name there as he was the one who asked, i didn't run into ian

Col, won't be any personal attacks comin from me, s**t happens may just have to open up the distance between me and everyone else a little more. Nothin against the even either, just really upset i didn't get to finish it, was really lookin foward to it for weeks in advance

ok, there was sufficiant spacing, however the line infront of me had to end up slamming his brakes on, as he said to me the car infront of him had to, and by the time i reacted (as i was checkin my mirrors) i was pretty close and was down to about 10 odd km when i impacted. Ian, rung insurance they seem pretty kool, but due to the excess ($1900) i'm gonna see if i can do it all for cheaper and avoid having a claim against my name. Got a mate who is lookin at seeling his GTR bar so thats good, and i'll see if it's cheaper to get a new bonnet or reapir that one and go from there, and i'm gonna try and sweet talk the welders at work to see if they can weld the top of the fmic on for me

Hey all, thought i would put up some pics of the damage on my car from the Fri night mountain cruise. Apart from the obvious damage the fmic has the top plate pulled away on right hand side

Me so angry right now was only 10min in and crashed to the bloke i hit sorry, i'm gonna try n call insurance tomorrow (even thou your car got off better than mine) Didn't even get to touch the mountain, oh well maybe next time

saw a white 33 no rear wing on centenary hwy near boundry rd bout 5pmish

i was thinkin bout bringin mine oh and fyi jason the girls pulled out last night

i've talked a mate into comin out as well, can i get him added to the list, names monkey cheers

i'm gonna be drivin up that ways, i can meet up ian i'll have a meatlovers and a hawaiian

i haven't driven up that way lately the bunnings is that at the south pine rd end or further along??

i have a mate with a rb30 in a vl and he is using a calais one, also had one guy recommend a silvia one, but i don't wanna be goin out buyin all these different cables if they won't fit

i'm guessin you don't know what kinda throttle cable was used then?? Can anybody out there tell me what to use??

thats major gay esp if he was tryin to sell it what were the plates?? i'll try n keep an eye out to

can't promise anythin as of yet, she can only get her taken friends atm