GTS4WD

Buy it and make it fit I dont see why it wouldnt

Seriously.. Some of this shit is just going to get taken to the dump/kurbside clean up.

Post would be about $40. Its fair heavy and quite large. Let me know bump

bump

Bumpski

Hi people! http://sydney.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GT-non-turbo-P-plate-legal-9-months-rego-W0QQAdIdZ249800021

I dont understand why people buy all new coilovers cos "they are too stiff" for 2K when you can go and buy, for $200 softer springs

"SLO4DR" On my R32 4Door I really wanted "SLO32R" But it was taken.. and 2 weeks after looking I saw the plates on a GTR 32 at my local shops.. Grrr..

I have had HSD's HR's on my 32 for years now. Love them! I had to go down a couple of KG's in spring rating in the rear to stop the arse comming out so easily. But other than that, love them. No problems, no leaking, nothing. Only down side is you cannot independently adjust bump and rebound rates. You get what you pay for I suppose.

Im in love with the gear knob but dont have the money. If not sold in Jan next year. Pm me and ill buy it

You can modify the 25 injectors and use them

I have another alternator for sale too

Exhaust manifold sold.

run super dot 4 or 5 brake fluid. I cooked my brakes at my frist track day and shat myself when the pedal went to the floor with no redardation in speed after the main straight.

Unless you have a cool 10K for a tough NA engine. Forget it

I think were making too big of a deal out of it. Do it. And see how you feel about it

Interesting photos you put up. Simplyfies a very complex problems. Any more? Where did you find them? Did you draw them?

That was the theory I wanted to test. That was where the thread started from.

My thoughts exactly when I read the first post. (aside from the toilet paper roll length list of things its going to screw on the suspension geometry)

I dont think the differences will be massivly drastic. And its not a bad idea. You may have to adjust the way you drive a little and prepare to catch the car when your giving it a poke. Softer springs in the front will increase complience in the front and decrease understeer, making it want to oversteer. You can tune out some of the oversteer if your THAT worried about it by running 1-2mm of toe in on each wheel at the rear and getting the camber settings right at the rear. Also, you can run lower tyre pressures in the rear. If you can, soften the dampers at the rear and soften swaybar if you can adjust it.

Hey Eugene, Things are same old same old. Sweet ride! What times does it do at willowbank? Is there a photo of the whole thing?

hokay.. so what does all this dribble mean? My interpretation of the numbers (and please correct me if I am wrong or provide other interpretations) By increasing tyre press you are reducing slip andgle. This would make for a lower level of maximam grip (yes?) as you are reducing the amount of slip angle the tyre can provide before it begins to under/over steer. How this is better, I dont know. Reducing dampers to allow for more weight transfer. More weight over each contact patch? I will ponder this some more and get back to you. There is more to be said, but I have to figure out the wording first.

Sorry for the late post.. I have been under the pump at work to get our cars out before the end of the year. But, this is the data collected on a ride day at Eastern Creek in the wet. Its not alot of data because we couldn't change set ups easily in the 40min between sessions. I will try to include as much information about the car and set up as I know to get the best information out. Car: Mazda RX7 S8 Set up and Specs: 1mm toe out on all 4 corners (yes, not the best for the wet) ~3 deg. Negy Spring rates unknown - Jap brand coilovers Corner weights unknown Total weight unknown Roll center unknown - No roll center adj. Standard sway bar's Tyres: Yoko Advan's AD050's 235/45/17 S compound Target press in dry - 32-34psi After speaking to Bill (from Gordon Levin) from Yoko, he said the target tyre temp is 50-80 deg. C (Precise, I know) Conditions: Track Temp ranged between 23-25 deg. C all day. Raining Sitting water on track Overcast Wet line Starting pressures for S1: 28/28 28/28 Psi Hot after S1 - 7 laps: 31.5/31.5 31/31 Tyre temp after S1: Bizmal 20-25 deg. C accross tyre Driver complained about understeer and unpredictability. Pressure changed to: 40/40 40/40 Psi (cold) 40/41.5 41/42 (hot) With tyre temps ranging from 35ish to 42ish depending on session but a nice even temp accross the tyre with little temp varience between the outer, middle and inner of the tyre Imediately, driver was much happyer with more predictability and less under. Dampers were all prgressivly softened throughout the day front and rear with positive results. Swaybars were not adjusted/disconnected (although we do do this with our Porsche Cup Car and GT40 when racing in the wet) Interpretation of data in next post

Very nice and clean man! I love the 20DE too!

Alternator sold