GTS4WD

For how long? I know personally of race cars who have left ethanol fuels in their rubber fuel bladders and fuel lines for a couple of weeks between events and have chewed through standard fiel lines. This is just my personal experience.. other people may have different experiences.

E10 has up to 10% ethanol in it. Unless your fuel system is designed to cope with it, dont use it. It chews away at rubber and plastic within the fuel systems. As above.. not a good idea.

I dont think there would be a switch for a viscous LSD as its not electronically operated. Im sure someone will give you a definate answer though

yeah.. shame your not in NSW!!

I recommend 11ty MILLIONSSSS INCHH!!!!!!!!!!!

unfortunately those calculations you made dont factor in aerodynamic drag the car has to overcome. Either way, my hat goes off to you boys. I been following this and its very very impressive! Whats the plan for the car? What will be its duties? That will influence diff choice too. Id be waiting till you get wider rubber then see how traction is before you go changing diffs

Yeah I thought it wouldnt. I heard from several places that it would. But I was very doubtful. Just wanted to hear from someone who has done it on their feedback

Pm me your details if there are any left. Money waiting.

Hey people.. Car will hopefully going to the pannel beaters to get a little nip tuck here and there. Im thinking if its there, I wanna see what other work I can do. At the moment Im pondering: GTR front bar with GTR or GTST bonnet Chopping up the GTST front bar + GTR lower lip Rolling the guards/GTR guards Im just looking of photos of some of the meanest 4 Door R32's around for ideas. Also, silky smooth 4door 32's if you have them.. So throw them up. Please, No over the top Veilside kits etc. Thanks guys!

Hi guys! Im looking to sell or swap my TE37's for the right price/set of wheels. Specs: 17x8.5 +30 Brand new rubber - Nothing to write home about. But less than 1000km done on them. Tyres are fairly stretched. Not center caps RAYS Vavle caps. 2 rims in really good condition. 1 Minor gutter love. 1 has small part of the Y in Rays peeled off. In Sydney. Price: $1700 ONO - Throw me an offer. Swaps: Looking for something with more offset for more fitment for a 32 GTST. Something oldschool cool, meshies etc. Feel free to PM me or 0403491735 for more details if needed Cheers, Cris

pm price of both front lower control arms

if your interested in trade for Te37's, pm me

never done this. But pm me when its its in and whar you found. More lock? more responce? more feedback? Cheers, Cris

before you just go throwing more money at your car, try this; Jack the car up on that corner so the wheel is off the ground in full droop. Grap the spring and give it a little shake. If the spring is become unseated due to sagging over time, this is where your knocking is coming from. Also, do the opposite, (you will need 2 jacks for this). Jack the car up, and jack the suspension arms up untill the car lifts up off the first jack (taking the weight of the car) so the car is in full bump. Look to see if the coils are comming in contact with one another. 2 simple ways to ensure your not throwing money away.

Hi all! Ripped out my 4wd system and want to get rid of some parts. Selling the front diff out of my R32 GTS4. I believe is a 4.34 ratio. Either way, its shorter than a GTR ratio. Works perfect. never abused - car ran mostly in RWD. Comes in front sump set up Locaded in Sydeney $500 ONO. PM or 0403491735.. SMS if I dont anwer.. I work stupid hours. Also, have other ATTESSA related items if needed

yeah, thats tuff. Does it throw our weight distributions and balance out the window? What box you running?

I hevent read th thread. But in my opinion, the benefits you will gain from using a 26 head a not worth spending the extra money as opposed to a 25 head. 26 head = ~ 2K 25 head = ~$500 Take the difference in $1500 and spend it on the engine. As far as I am concerned. Power figures when it comes to NA engines are dependent on 2 things: 1) intake runner length 2) compression ratio my advise. If you want good power figure (throwing out drivablility): Reduce weight: lighten the bottom end, balance it, lighten the box (including clutch and flywheel) driveshafts/s and diff (spool diff would be nice) this will let the engine rev harder and faster. Tune runner length: the shorter the the intake runner length (yes, ITB's ARE worth it!!!!) the narrower the power band will be, the higher in the rev range it will be, but the more power it will produce. this is ESSENTIAL to get right with the next step Cam profile: You want a nice healthy valve overlap to get as much fresh air into the engine as possble. Cam lift and duration will be dependent on alot of factors including the runner length, volume of the engine and ecu tune. Exhause manifold: No. Coby extractors will not do the job properly. Get it built from scratch, get it tuned right (spend the 1.5K difference here and the ecu, and ITB's, the benifits will far outweigh a 26 head!!!!) the right Juice: tune with and run E85 (you will have to use e85 friendly fuel system - or drain it after every drive) 109 octane etc. for best results 200NA kw is easily acheivable.

I wonder when we will see some more hardcore NA track demons

grab a multimeter and try a continuity test in figgerent parts of the circuit. This will help diagnose where the problem is. You may have to take the dash out. It may be as simple as a blown gobe. This is not a nice exercise. Best of luck

As said by duncan before, get the wheel alignment sorted. This will make huge differences in handeling characteristics. If the alignment is as SydneyKid recomends, who am I to argue? If you can invest in a tyre pressure gauge and tyre pyrometer this will help too. Basic wheel alignments are a good place to start but they are very dependent of driver characterists (i.e, how you drive the car) Find out what tyre pressure the tyres work best and aim for that pressure when the tyres are hot. A big tip I have found is start off with the simple basics, ie tyre pressures, and get more complex if you have more problems. If the car feels under/over steery, adjust tyre press first by adding or lowering pressures in the tyres to add or reduce grip at one end of the car (its not quite THAT simple, as adjustments at one end of the car will change characteristics at the other end too, but its a good place to start). From there you can use a tyre pyrometer to see how effectivly the tyres contact patch is to the road. In other words, are you getting as much tyre contacting the road as possible or could you increase grip further? But if you dont have any problems with the characteristics of the car, why change them? Work bettering yourself as a driver and extracting the most from the car. Once you reach the limit, you will start encountering problems. From there, you'll have to identify where the problem is (as Duncan said). Under or over steer? Corner entry/mid corner/corner exit etc, under brakes? Acceleration? It it aint broke, dont fix it.Once you have problems, let us know and im sure we can help with something

In my opinion, gains are so minimal its not worth the money. Save your money and spnd it on something more worth while. There is very little increase in power or torque. The only thing you'll gain is a deep growl under throttle. If thats the only thing your looking for, just add a pod only. CAI's have very little menefit unless your car is often working hard in hot conditions.

it may not. This depends on the coilovers. If they are hight adjustable, you can lower it without making the spring stiffer.

Drivers side. On the front windscreen. The black shaft. If you can locate the gearbox. Look for the transfer case. The thing protruding out from the drivers side of the gear box is the transfer case. There is a driveshaft the protrudes from the transfer case to the fron diff to drive the front wheels. Im not sure if this has been explained in this thread how the ATTESSA system works. ATTESSA is the name of the driveline system. It is the same as the GTR driveline. Its not AWD. Its not RWD. Under normal circumstances 100% of the power is sent to the rear wheels to drive the car. Making it a RWD car. The system uses ABS wheel speed sensors, G sensors, steering input and actual speed sensors to assess whether any of the four wheels are spinnning or the car is sliding. Once these inputs senses there is something going fishy. The ECU works out how much of the power needs to be sent to the front wheels to keep you out of a tree. From there, hydrolically operated clutch packs engauge in the transer case, which turns the drive shaft which drives the front diff and hence the half shafts and then the wheels. Making the car AWD. Once the system has kept you out of a tree, the clutch packs disengauge and the car becomes RWD again. Hope this helps

Thats soooo cool!

If you have front lower control arms. Pm me