GTS4WD

Reset ECU. Check Coils for cracks and proper spark under boost.

Bump. Taking offers

WOW! Are you guys serious? I run 45-50psi on the rears at the track when I go drifting. And about 32-34 at the front (16" rim, 205-55) It depends very greatly what press to run. Factors like wheel alignment, driving style, driving conditions, quality of rubber and what you want to get out of your rubber. Have a look at the tyre wear on the rubber, where is it wearing first? Is it an even wear? Is it feathering on the tread blocks? For daily driving I wouldnt recommend more than 36 just to try limit fuel consumption. Tyre press is a comprimise betwee grip and tyre wear. Do you want you rubber to last? or do you want it to grip?

In short, SRDE/T = S13 because of less weight Sr16/20VE = N15/N14/N13 because of less weight. Fj = Dr30, again less weight. In all honesty, If you want to race in IPRA, id go a turbo car. Chance are, your not going be highly ranked in the over 2L/turbo class, but you will be involved in the middle of the field mixing it up with competitors and thats what you want if your in IRPA, to be involved with other racers in a race environment. My best best - Rb25DET in a 32, basic engine mods and attention spend on brakes/rubber/suspension.

Cirtainly a bit different. Its amazing how different modification styles are across different countries.. Not better, not worse, just diff

I skipped a couple of posts.. But any verdict on air to air cooler or air to water cooler?

yeah, thats cool.. 147 sports sedan Good luck with the project man. Great to see something a little more different in Australia

Great video mate.. Unbelievable drifting

Very interesting read. Car looks super tuff already! Cant wait to see it when its done. I like your attention to detail too. I like your assessment of weight too.. every gram counts! Looking forward to your next update

Bet he feels like a dick

Its the ABS releasing.

I haven't read all of the posts in the thread but in terms of the thread question: Short answer: Yes. 200hp is possible out of an RB25DE. It would be even easier to reach 200hp in a hybrid RB25/30DE. Obviously by increasing engine capacty your going to be (theoretically) making more power than keeping it 2500cc. The large question you should be asking yourself first is: How much do you want to spend? Will you be doing the work yourself? Expect to double the budget if your paying a workshop. Biggest gains your going to have are from increasing compression ratio. As said before, you can safely increase CR to 11:1 without too much trouble. You can increase CR to 12:1 if you constantly run high octane fuel with a good quality ECU. Of course you could run even higher CR if you choose to run non-pump fuel and is not used as a daily driver with supporting mods. And as all people have said above. Reduce intake and exhaust restrictions. I dont know why Nissan has decided to use this "over head" design, but for an NA car and intakes, you cant beat individual throttle bodies. Depending on runner leangths, trumpet diameters and head ports you can minipulate where the engines power band occours. You can move the power band higher or lower in the RPM range. So obviously you'll want to have the power band higher up in the RPM range for peak power output. ITB dimentions will also dependent on camshaft profiles (and therefore lift and duration) you have to choose from. A good healthy dose of valve overlap is necessary to get as much fresh air in the combustion chamber as possible. To do the job properly you will need a high quality set of headers and exhaust system in the right diameter. Again, exhaust diameter and header runner length will be dependent on where you in RPM range you will be making power. You'll be looking for a slightly larger diamter to gain a higher peak output. If you go ITB's an ECU to match. Increase fuel pump capacity. Lighten bottom end and flywheel and balance All of the above = $$$$$$$ Short answer = NOS.

wow. This thing is awesome! Its grat to see something a little more different running around too! Interior looks awesome! Congrats! Ill see it at superlap

thats gorgeous.

Bump Want this gone. Taking offers Best to contat 0403491735 SMS first is best as I have class most hours of the day.

I too have a smimilar prob. Does it seem like its coming from the box or further forward?

$500 is not worth speding on a diff for a car that has a pretty good chance of ending up in a tree (no offence, no comment on your driving). If its a rally only/street rarely, car the benefits of an LSD are not worth it. Welded or minispool is the way to go. Horses for courses. Id vote with a minispool because its a diff designed to do a special job, as opposed to a welded diff which is a butchered item. That being said, they do exactly the same thing and will feel very similar. Its your call though, wont make much of a diff (pardon the pun). You may as well buy the item that does the job properly and buy a minispool.

And make sure your in boost before you flatten the pedal

Wheel align the car propery too. Toe out at the rear and the front. TO out the front will cause it to dive in, TO at the rear will cause it to oversteer. As said before, tyre press is good too. increase the rear press to lessen the grip. Invest in good rubber for the front. Turn in under brakes, keeps the weight on the front, pushes the rubber on the road. Feint before corner

Got a dial gauge and stand? Check run out

I got a tomei Trax advance. 2 way LSD cluncks, chatters and likes to chew up rubber in tight corners. Not so good in carparks either, sreeches wheels and carries on. Can also be a bit of a handful in the wet too if your not on the ball, especially when boost comes in. Bloody brilliant though, incredibly predictable and the grip is amazing!!! The difference between the stock VLSD and a proper 2 way is just huge! The predictability and grip is ten fold as good. Its not for everyone and unless your prepared to put up with the harshness of a proper mech diff, dont get one. Get a GTR diff. thats mech 2 way too, re-shim it with some smaller shims so as it doesnt feel "locked" and doesn't bite as hard. Best and cheapest option for a streeter id say. Bear in mind the gearing is different so the speedo will be out. Can ask though, what are the reasons for wanting upgrade the diff? Does the car see much trackwork? Drift? etc.

keep the photos comming! I love photo diarys.. They are such a great insight to an amazing culture.

Location? How much for driver seat + rail? Pm me

I was with the Tafe workshop there. Had a poke around at some of the cars. I dont know who owned it, but the R31 was absolutely mint! Great to see some Skylines there!

GTR dash.. very trick. Shame you cant use the "boost" function