GTS4WD

Yes. With S13 and I think s14 too

I would probably do the exact same thing!

But if you look at the photo upside down, does that make it the upper control arm?

Yeah shane, they do, But disconnecting swaybars completely seems like a drastic change! I have never driven a car with a disconnected swaybar, but Im assuming it would be a massive change!

If you were in sydney, I would have snapped up that seat tonight

dirt turbo What diff is in it?

some of those things are jobs you can to with minimal knowledge and tools. You could EASILY cut that in half if you have a friend with a couple of basic tools and a spare weekend! DONT JUST ALLOW YOURSELF TO GET BEND OVER LIKE THAT

Great angle shane'o! Did you manage to hold onto it? Lol.. what is that to the left of your car? An under tray? Drifting seems to be an awesome way to loose weight out the car. Last time I went, I had 3 interior pannels rip/tear/break themselfs off the car

spewing I dont have that channel. I suppose its a good thing australian motorsport is getting air time though.. other than v8's

Thats right.. its very important data, thats why I wanted to know how close the three areas of the tyre should be to make the most of the contact patch

On this thread, to save me starting up a couple of other threads, I just have a couple more questions: Tyre Temps in the wet - Should I be aiming for the same as dry by ramping up pressure? How much should tyre temps differ accross the inner middle and outer of the tyre? I understand inner may be hotter because of static camber, but how much difference should there be between the three areas of the tyre? Boxheadmr - Thanks for the reply, this gives me ideas..

RX7 S8 Production Sports Great Link UWAM! Thanks!

if you want more power your going to be using more fuel. Honestly though. Dont waste your money

Which dunlops? what Track? What were you running? In our category we are allowed to run Michelin Wets.. but shoestring budget team The only advice I say is to keep to the dry race line

Interesting points you guys raise. The driver I work work is vey good in the respect he is very calm when he drives and plays smart. Never seen the red mist decend.. yet. So im not tooworied about that.. Im just looking for something thats going to give a little more edge in the rain.. I will deffinately do so Roy if we get the funds to make it there!! So best thing is to get as much heat into the A050's as possible and they aren't too bad then hey?

Hi people I’m going down to Phillip Island in a couple of weeks for Island Magic and am preparing for the worst. I have found it quite difficult setting up cars to race in the rain as it’s quite difficult to plan test days in the rain. But I have come across a couple of interesting theories and devised my own curiosities about how to get a quick car in the wet. As far as I understand, the idea is to move as much water off he surface of the track so as the tyres contact patch is on as dry a track as possible. We do not have dedicated wets and will be running Yoko Advan’s AD050. Aside from softening up dampers, the two ideas I have concern running extra static camber in the wet and increasing tyres pressures in the wet. Extra camber: After looking at some old Improved Production photos recently I noticed that the water which has settled on the track seems to be “ploughed” out of the way (similar to a bow wave) due to the angle of the camber. Now I see a couple of big cons with this. One being less contact patch which means less grip, less braking performance as less of the tyre is in contact with the road (and as the wheel moves into bump more dynamic camber occurs due to unequal length arms) and decreased mid corner grip. BUT!.. and this is where I need help. Because the contact patch is smaller, there is more weight on a smaller area so more water is moved to the outside of the tyre and ploughed away by the camber. But a decreased contct patch translate to decreased grip!!! So I’m not sure which is fact, which is fantasy. Do the benefits of moving water outweigh the decreased contact patch? Increasing tyre pressures: Secondly, by increasing tyre pressure to above normal you again have less contact patch but more weight on a smaller area so water is moved more easily. I’m not concerned about tyre blistering etc. from overheating as the water on the track will keep tyre temps down. So who has had any experience or insight to this would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any other tips for racing in the rain, it would help greatly too. Cheers, Cris

I think I know what you are talking about. Does this "over correction" occor when you lift off the power and have steering lock on? Take a bend at the speed where it is most pronounced, feed in a fair amount of steering lock, lift off and power on. Does it occur then, every time you lift/apply power?

pm me re: weather shield

if it dont sell by next week.. shoot me a pm

if you run a high temp brake fluid and you arn't cooking brakes, I wouldnt bother with drilled rotors. A good set of pads, high temp fluid and slotted disks are ample for track days now and again

so if you want a squishy ride, why do you want coilovers if your never going to the track?

if you drive it regularly.. do not get it welded. Welded diffs are horrible on the road.. they make the car sound like it rattling itself to bits any point the lightest bit of steering lock is applied. Welded diff like to shag axels. Its an irriversable operation. They are a death wish in the rain!!! You will find yourself into a tree, gutter or god knows what else before you leave the driveway. They tear tyres to bits. The only reason I would suggest getting a welded diff is if its a dedicated track car. Only then. And even they id suggest get a spool diff instead of welding. Re-shimming is a cheaper alturnative, its better on the car, better for the driver, better in a daily situation and is adjustable.

WIN!

Id be thinking if your building a car for the track, you can service it yourself..

I think one major thing that everyone has forgotten about motorsport cars: Fast Cheap Reliable Pick two.. you can have all of them.. Bear in mind alot of the cars mentioned are getting very old and likely thrashed within an inch of their lives. Its best to gt a car that hasn't been in the hands of several P platers already.. you will spend all your time and money working on it, rather than driving it. Find an MX5 1.8L from an old fat bawld man who has woken up from their middle age crisis and is selling his MX5. Find a BMW E30 that has been in the family for ages but rarely driven. EK/EG honda SSS Pulsar - Look up SR16VE N1 - and buy one!.. then drop in an SR20VET out of the Jap spec Xtrail.