GTS4WD

Dad has an Xforce muff. He has one on his R32 Rb25DET VVL. When we first started the engine and before all the settled carbon and shit build up in the engine left the engine, it made it sound like a bog block V8 WRX.. gosh it was freakon sexy! The mufflers are quite loud and does create a fair bit of resonance and droneing. Some people get off on it, others take the muff off. What ever floats your boat really.. Its quite wanky and rice burner-ish. Its chromed, sticks out a fair bit (2 door R32) and has X-FORCE embedded within the top of so as you can see it from space.. Drove his car.. after 20min of driving, i was going CRAZY! it resonates and drones throughout all RPM. btw.. it came with the car.. dads trying to swap me his muff for my NISMO one.. HA!.. (told him ill trade him my muff and stock suspention for his HSD coilovers.. not going too sucessfull).. So theres your answer.. see if it floats your boat..

WOOOO!.. thanks for the help guys!.. been emense help!.. I got a few quotes back.. today: Price on block would be $260.00 balanced with piston and con rods. Dip cleaning is included in the price. RB30 1500hp con rods that have upgraded bolts in them $1620 inc.gst. So i think ill wait for my other quotes to come in about balance and dip clean.. I may even see if I can clean it myself. and $1620 is stupendus! Ill be getting them when I plan to run 13:1 CR.. if i ever do.. but for now.. Ill get rod bolts.. Ill give fitzpatrick a pm. See what he sais about front sumps/diffs.. Thanks again boys!

I remeber reading somewhere rod bolts help in engines to rev higher? Confirmation? it was something along the lines of: "if the rod bolts are stronger, it helps stop the rods from flexing?" mind you this was at the top of Mt Panorama during the Bathurst 1000.. so both of us were on the cans pretty hard by then.. so traslation may have been lost

NO NO NO! US$1200 EACH!!! "They are $1200 each." Lol!.. yeah!.. only by coincidence, whilst looking for RB30E bearings did i bump into it over google. There seems to a little more work than first anticipated bur faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaark!.. this file is going to help me a BILLION fold! lol.. ill cross that bridge when I get to it.. lets just hope its not some big f*ck off bridge! I have a set of RB25DET forgies laying around at home.. but I have a feeling dad has shot gunned them for a future project.. besides.. the amount of shaving and decking involved to bring the CR to a decent level is purely SPASTIC!.. so that plan is out the window.. Well.. what are my optioins? By no means do i have the $800 on top of the build funds to pay for aftermarket rods. Could I get them shot peened? Nitred? Cryogenically treated? A cheaper alturnative? I dont think Ill be pushing it past 7000RPM as its a stock RB25DE head and wont be modifying that till a later date. I do do alot of togue and mountain passes.. so Ill need to make sure the engine has adequit oil and oil preassure.. Ideas anyone?

A MASSIVE cheers to everyone that helped put together the RB30DE .PDF file! Its taken me a while to find it (after reading 50 pages of this thread) but its all been worth while! If i bump into the boys who put it together.. Ill have to buy them a beer!.. or 20! Thanks again fellas!

LOL! *insert guinea pig noise here* Well Im still reading.. *Side note.. some bloke in america payed US$1200 to import an RB30!! and he baught TWO OF THEM!* But im hearing a common trend with thr RB's becoming unstable over 7500 RPM. So im hopeing the balance in the crank will sort that out. Im in the process of sending e-mails for prices on the balance and clean/acid dip. Also looking into prices of bearings and rings. Im thinking the race bearing will be better suited to the application. Ill be getting a full run down pretty soon.. as soon as people write me back and find appropriate prices. And after slogging through 50 pages of a massive 282page SAU thread I found the .PDF they posted. It wasnt available because the thread was back from 2003. I have a feeling this thread here will be quite comprehensive after a bit of a clean up. next time i hear the question: "What zorst" or "how do i get more power" Ill just cut and paste the link

Champion! Thanks mate! Ill just get a second hand flywheel, machine it and use that. I already have an exedy clutch and love the feel of it.. so ill keep that.. I think Ill stick with the 5kg flywheel

Hmm... thats quite comprehensive.. LOL.. some one did their research! I want to make sure the bottom end is prepped and then Ill worrie about the head.. Ill be looking into throttle boddies etc. at a later date. I think Ill stick with what I had planned and some rings, rod bolts and bearings. Ill pick up a universal oil coorler for next to nothing too. Its worth it. I read some people were having problems with keeping their temps down. So its a small price to pay, $50 for a universal oil cooler (I really dont see why you would pay ~$400 for the trendy blue ones) How do you plan to do a sump extention? I dont think Im prepared to do all the work you mentioned as yet. I still want to enjoy my car. Besides. I still want alot more suspention and brake work to be done before i go skitzo on the engine. Plus its easier to become a better driver on an underpowered car. so thats another thing thats at the top of my "To do" list. But thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Ill be posting up a finalised list of items/jobs and prices within the next few days..

But will an Rb25DE/T flywheel bolt up to the block? What flywheel are you running at the moment? Stock RB30? Did you get it machined before you put it? How much did it cost?

Sorry.. double post..

Well its been converted to an RB25DE And soon to be high comp RB25/30. So I need a flywheel that will fit an RB30 block - mate up to an RB20DET Clutch. (I just realised how bazar my car is) Im wodering if an Rb20DE/T RB25DE/T lightened flywheel will mate up to the appropriate parts. And how a ~4.5kg flywheel is on the driving.. Btw.. I run my car 90% in RWD so its not too much of a problem

Hay guys!.. Just a quick question.. Would an RB25 flywheel bolt up to a RB30 block? (Rb25/30 conversion) Roughly how heavy is a stock flywheel? How hard is it to get a say ~4kg flywheel off the line? Much feathering of the throttle/clutch required? besides the revs climbing and dropping heaps quic, what problems encountered with a heaps light flywheel? thanks in advance! =]

Saw your car near parra about a week ago.. its hot.. I like the calipars too

Stupid question.. But would fit a RB30? NA block? If so.. willing to post to Syd at buyers expense?

Im running 195's on my R32 GTR rim.. and their .. PHAT! Go the stretch!

Toe in causing feathering to the extent its balled?

I have heard of RB20DET box's stripping second gear when they hit around 240rwkw and around 210rwkw they start to do their input shaft bearing in. so it may cost me a fair bit more than first anticipated..

Well I want reliability.. Thats why im not going higher lift and more CR. Is there any chance I could have a look at your plan of ur NA engine.. cos I really want to make sure the engine isnt going to shit itself.. oh.. btw.. drop in possibly new bearings depending on the condition of the block.. I also have to see if the RB25DE injectors and Rb20DET fuel pump will fuel it adequitly..

Ok guys.. to answer some of your questions.. I been doing a fair bit of reading and research.. Im thinking I will not be able to complete the WHOLE engine in one go.. especially as Im HEAPS wingey about my suspention.. no point in goin fast if I cant take a corner.. no point in taking a corner if I cant get out of it in time.. so.. Plan of attack.. Bottom end, the cheap headwork and springs and shockies in one go.. then the rest of head and suspention.. mmmkay.. here is how it stands.. Ill be using the RB30 NA (S2) engine as the pistons with an RB25 NA head will give me a C.R of ~8.0:1. The crank will have to be balanced with the harmonic balancer, flywheel, preassure plate and clutch on it as the engine will be spinning at higher RPM. And yes.. the crank is nitrided from factory.. so no point in strengthening it. ARP Rod bolts will be used as rod bolts are often the problem of what will cause the rods to shit themselfs. I may skim over the rods with a very fine sand block to smoothen out the outside edges (Smooth = better flow = Better running conditions = duribility) The rods I think I will leave stock as they can cope well with 400BHP so the HOPEFULLY 200kw ill be making by the end should be ok for the engine I will shave the head and deck the block by a total of ~2mm to increase CR to 10:1. Im not too worried about cam clearence as I wont be running too much lift (lift is torue, duration is power). I wont need a big increase in cam lift as I will already have enough poke down low from a high comp 3L with a lightened flywheel to get it revving into the higher RPM pretty quickly. On the topic of flywheel. I have access to a trade card.. but im tossing up if I should get a second hand flywheel and get it machined instead of buying a new one. I dont think I will be jumping into porting head myself.. as its a bit of big job.. but a polish will be done in the first stage of the engine work. Im not 100% yet.. but I should upgrade zorst. I.e. Headers, mandrel bent front pipe, cat (most likely go ghetto and just punch the contents out and weld pipe from one end of the cat to another to help flow). I have a cat back 3" (I know not best size.. bit its a NISMO and got it for $50 to get rid of the nasty metalic resonating). Now.. Id like strip some weight while Im doing this aswell.. so Im thinking.. if I buy titanium piping (anyone got ideas on prices?) and mandrel bend it myself (I have access to a bender) and weld the flanges onto the end of the pipeing and make it my zorst.. I should loose a fair few kg's.. plus its tricked out.. And.. someone bring me back down to earth cos im thinking about cutting lots of little pipes and connecting them so as they bend and make headers.. this will have to be done proffessionally so ill probs have to stick with RB30 headers (as the 25 and 30 have different header alignment) for now. I only can hope I have enough money by the end (or find some heaps good deals) and have enough money to buy a Z32 ECU That uses VCT (for RB25 VCT head) as these ecu's are mappable. The stock R33 Rb25DE ECU is not mappable. I also have a stock RB20DET laying around at home that can be chipped and re-mapped - but i will loose mt CVT. So just there.. if I need a new ECU/Chip and re-tune.. Im looking at $1000 Further than that.. its stage two of engine work I may have to fit the ECU and re-tune in stage two. But now I would need to finish zorst - if its not done and get headwork done. ie. exhaust cam gear. reginded cams (somewhere in the specs of 260* & 8mm inlet and 265* & 8mm exhaust to perhaps slightly higher - 270? 275?) Ill have to talk to the mechanics about this. Port cams proffessionally Again - Retune. Stage one RB30E Sereis 2 (NA) block ~$80 Balance crank ~$150 (mates rates) ARP Rodbolts ~$200 Lightened flywheel ~$400 (trade) or ~$200 second hand and machined Ajustable intake cam gear - $150 Polish - cheap Deck block/shave head - cheap Total: at least $780 Stage Two ECU + Retune/chip ~$1000 Exhaust Cam gear - $150 Regrinded cams - $300 Port ~$250 So yeah.. I think its possible if you do the work yourself.. do the research.. talk to people and learn as much as you can.. I need to start starving myself to save money. Stop going out Quit smoking Continue reading and research .. and.. SAVE I still have to see how to run the oil line for the CVT. So.. comments are more than welcome.. If theres any questions.. please ask.. because I need to be 150% its going to work with RELIABILITY a very high priority.. thanks guys!.. sorry about the freaking HUGE post

There is a Nismo one I got through JustJap..awesome catback.. Great sound.. stock-ish looking.. no droning.. its beaute! If your going to go zorst.. get headers back.. Look through the NA section.. there is a stupid amount of threads on this topic

Well it will be a 3L block.. So yes.. Id like to balance and get bearings.. even look into shot peened/Cryo treated (???) con rods.. I want reliablility.. Budget will be about 2K hopefully.. with all the work (except the work where professional tools are concerned e.i re-grinded cams etc. is concerned).. I just need the appropriate information to know what Im looking for.. Ill be doing alot more reading on this.. Its a shame there arnt many people looking for NA RB power.. A full lost of parts and details will be up sometime in the near future so I can sus everything out.. I still need information on air/fuel mixtures.. I need to read more into that.. and on that topic.. put down 6new injectors and perhaps a fuel pump too ( there goes more money)

So what did you find?

So should I be bothering with DET springs wich are stiffer? Any clues on on whether RB30 Valves are bigger than 25's? Or if there are valves bigger than the 25's? VG's? Has anyone gotten their cams re-grinded? How would it compair to a new cam? Its a shit load cheaper to get them re-grinded.. Would it be necessary to balance the crank?

Yeah mate.. Im telling you.. its that.. btw.. not ALL of can be as manly as Eug .. so try the cover of exhaust thing as soon as u start it up.. P.s.. wear shoes..

And focus on saving weight/becoming a better driver/suspention/supporting mods more so than outright power.. Its much easier to learn on an underpowered car how to become a good driver than a powerful one.. besides.. you will probably put a few dents and scratches on ur first car too..