Whooby

spotted white series 2 last night, about 10:15 turning right on to Logan Rd. Mt Gravatt. Think it had Autech kit. And some shiney wheels Wasn't in my Stagea, Was in the Celsior.

I have a different Diag cable and a few different programs. It's a cool tool, really need 2 people to use it while driving, all the guages are really distracting Shows timing, voltages of various sensors, acceleration timing etc. Seeing and resetting engine faults is great too. So buy one if you can.

That sucks, possible to do in a different state? People have said its easier to get a car done in QLD than NSW/VIC. Anyone know if its true?

All back together and all happy. Faster and boost level is closer to 10psi on the guage now. Idle has also changed. Seems to be firing better. time for a run on a dyno.

spotted black series 2 in ipswich the other night, at the lights near the school on the corner, turning right, cant remember which night now though. Was in my Celsior(UCF11).

Hello all, I'll keep the uninteresting parts of the story short.... ****I had no reason to doubt the performance of the car as it drove well and still quicker than cars with 0-100kmh times of ~6.5 secs(Golf GTi 4Door)**** After suffering some front bar damage we decided to pull it off and repair it, while it was off I thought I'd clean up the SMIC becuase it was looking a bit sad. I didnt know how sad till the cleaning began...... I could scrap the grease off with a screw driver, thats how thick it was. Didn't think too much off it till the degreaser started to work its magic. While cleaning it off, I found that a core row on the cooler was cracked on the end tank, at BOTH ends. Not massive but big enough to see it wasn't right. The cracks were hidden by the grease, possibly the grease had sealed the holes ?! As the grease cleared i noticed the bottom row of fins was completely stuffed. (Hope these images show) At this point I was amazed because the car doesnt have any damage in the area, and it hasnt had a FMIC as far as I can tell. Also pretty annoyed becuase I had to get another cooler now, even though it's been 10 months on this one . I rang helpful Jeff at NizzPro he said he had one, drove down to his shop but with his craziness making room for new arriving goodies we couldn't find a good cond. stock side mount. Luckily Myles was able to help out and sell me his original cooler. Here are the pics as a comparison between his near mint cooler and whats left of mine. As you can see one of the end tanks is no longer straight and it has been pushed in on the cooler. Also note that the cooler is BENT and TWISTED, much to all of our amazement. Even though the cooler was in this condition, the turbo still made 8-9psi I think I've covered all of the details, but if not i'll be sure to fill in any blanks, or answer any questions. My advice even though your car might be running well, even really well, still pays to double check. Cheers, Hugh.

emissions test, with the way things are now they can tell you to go to the pits for your windows being down if they're having a bad day. But its up to you.

If you weigh up the cost difference between buying a high-flow cat $300 ish and the cost of the fine for not 'having' one $15000 the decision is simple So i'd say pay the $$ for a decent high flow one.

How does one drift? like this.....

I have a MiNes ECU in my series 2 stagea. It removes the speed limiter(havent tested though), changes rev limit to 7000rpm, advances timing, removes 'half' boost mode. between 8-9psi by 3000rpm. Not sure what else, becuase it came with the car not sure how different it would be compared to standard. But you can tell them the mods to your car and they'll remape the ECU to that spec. I should really email them and ask what is done to my ecu......

There are some bolt on options, do a search you'll see what people are using, what works and what doesnt. Performance wise might not be that obvious with just an exhuast, but unlocking the kool RB sound is worth it

Had the same thing happen in my Celsior, but with a black widow alarm. Was down at the coast, went to leave serv-o car didnt want to budge. Celsior's are damn heavy cars to push. Had a look around under the dash, took a look at the alarm box looked fine, i must have moved it and the dash came on(for those who havent seen a celsior dash they're black until they get power, When the power is cut to it, its hard to see how fast you're going) Anyhoo, i opened up the alarm box to find that the bloody thing had short circuited and melted the damn main plug to the alarm box. I managed to tape it into a position to be able to drive the car again. I rang black widow and told them what I had to do and even with me dodgeying up the alarm box it was still replaced for free. Appearntly the first goon didnt install it right any way. Now to the stagea's alarm wo's, Went to drive the car one morning, completely dead, no lights nothing. Any power drain was making the siren sound?! Put a massive marine battery in the car thinking it was just a flat batt, still no good. Called the guy that installed it, tried some trouble shooting and he ended up telling me how to bypass the immibolisers to at least drive the car to them to fix. Replaced the alarm box and all is happy again. I say just ring them and tell them what the car is and isnt doing, After they run through their trouble shooting things then ask what they're going to do because you're not happy. Theres my 65c worth. Good luck. Hugh.

Sorry to be off topic, dont have a standard muffler. But i saw a Series 2 stagea heading into Booval shops on the weekend, possibly you? All black stagea, no kit? I have the Black over Grey Series 2.

Hey All Just wondering if anyone else has the chassis brace? I found this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rs...l=chassis+brace But its a bit old now just wondering if any new owners have found the same thing. Being one of the few with an S-Tune(I think) it's hard to compare. If anyone else has found the bar that links the chassis rails under the fire wall, around where the exhaust starts to go horizonal. If no one has it, it would add to the list of S-Tune differences. I dont have a decent pic at work so I can't show you exactly what I mean. So far I know the S-Tune has the Bilstien's, different air filter, Body Kit, This chassis brace? The Brakes(read it some where, Not Brembo's tho)? 2 Tone paint? Only Black over Silver I know of. Mines ECU(but i know where thats from ) Anything else anyone might have read/heard/seen would be a great help Cheers. Hugh.

Its very clean, I looked at buying it. But went with the RS4 they had instead with all the 'trimmings' - leather, sunrooves, S-Tune goodies. It has a twin plate clutch in it, not overly heavy has the usual 'rattle' they make under no pressure. Yes it's a little more expensive than importing one yourself. It was 38k when i first saw it. But since it's already here and ready to go, spend some more $$ and take it sooner. It is very tidy and legit, if I had the extra $$ i would have bought it. They're easy to deal with, very particular about their cars(have to show real interest before you test drive it, so no hoons have thrashed your potentional car) If you want the wing for it, Ask Paul(owner and drifts Motorman S13) he'll probably get it for you. However, these are just my opinions and take them or leave them, up to you. Hugh.

I could be way off, but would that be a signal wire for the torque split gauge? Just my guess.

I've fixed the Stagea, starts under its own power. Damn wiring. But we'll be there. S-Tune with cracked bumper(Hate Cats)

Tried and failed with the neutral trick. BUT! I found what my problem is, Massive voltage drop between the starter wire on the barrel and the solenoid engage wire. 12.8V down to 0.7 WTF? So I ran a new wire from the barrel to the engage point on the solenoid and it cranks! It's only a bandaid for now, but it's made my car reliable again. I think the old rooted starter may have been jammed on and the wire has been burnt some where along the way so i'll have to track it down i suppose. But thanks to those with suggestions. Sunday here we come!

Sounds like a good plan. Really hope I can work out my cars starting issue by then, otherwise i might be forced to set it on fire....... Plus hit a cat on the freeway last night, put a nice crack in the front bar. HATE CATS!

Thanks for quick reply, car has an earthing kit already(came on it) i tried removing it its earth to the battery and starting car. No change. Where abouts is the starter relay? ive had a look but some of the words on the fuse box are scratched off. My partner is off to our battery man today. I put the volt meter on the battery + and the Starter casing 12.8V same as battery. I think the small wire is from the relay to engage the starter? Thanks.

Hello all, I've got a really stupid annoying problem. The original starter in the car was getting a weird and strange, eg. it would make a starting attempt sound after the engine has started and the key released. Weird point 2 was that I turned the car off and went to turn it back on again and nothing, not even a solenoid click. I thought maybe the battery was really flat.(batt is 3months old, Marine battery 585CCA) Managed to get the car jump started then it was happy again. Next morning go to move the car, nothing 0, Zip. Put the volt meter on the stagea battery, 12.8Volts. Tried to crank it, not much voltage drop at all. So I get my Celsior to jump start it thinking the battery is stuffed in the Stagea. But NO! Celsior running, jump leads connected, tried to start Stagea, nothing. Not even a solenoid click. I thought the celsior should be able to start it surely, V8 plus a massive 750CCA battery could crank the Stagea. But nothing. There is where I start to get real annoyed. So I pull the starter off the stagea, its looks worse than a SR20('92) starter i have. Actually looks like it has a burn mark on the outer casing, like it hasnt disengaged and has burnt out the bushes. Then I read the forums, VL RB30 starter works. Ring repco get one, $136 later i have a new starter to put on. The physical appearance is different but it'd fitted easily and I read on here that a couple of you have used the VL starter so I didnt worry, and just put it in. The strange part is the VL starter has 2 spade points, original stagea only has 1 the other is soldered to the outter casing. I hooked up the + and the little wire to the spade and without a jump turn the key and it fires!!!! Now this puts a smile back on my face, just to be safe took the car for an hour drive on the freeway to recharge the battery. But the next day it goes south again, I'd be turned the car on and off a couple of times with no problems at all. But 1 time at the shops went to turn it on and CLick, CLick solenoid sound. Anger kicks in again. So i tried removing the little wire from the spade point and trying it on the other spade thats on the starter. but nothing. No Click. So again i put it back how it was, and after some attempts in fires! WTF? Last night went out in the car, turned it on and off 4 or 5 times, fine. happy. But went to go out 30mins later, Click, CLick. Fooled around with the little wire again, no good this time. Checked the voltage in the little wire - 0.5-7Volts. Doesnt change even when turning the key. BUT simple jump start this time and it was happy. Later last night, tried to start the car no joy. Solenoid tick. But this time, went to jump start the car and only got, Click, Click. Even tried hitting the starter to release a possible jam, but no. again moved the wire to the other point. same old nothing. So i put it back Tried to jump start the car and, and bingo it fired up. My questions are WTF? and those who used a RB30 starter what do I do with the second spade point on the starter? do I earth it? Any one else had these weird problems? Surely it'd be more than a battery if it wont jump even with my Celsior attached. Any idea welcome, id like to get it fixed before sunday, Or i'll be holding everyone up with my cars problems(jumper leads always in the back) Thanks.

Do we have a 'time table' out lined? the day is almost upon us Is it gather at 12 and leave Coomera at 1? rough directions/route? CB channel? should we bring food or is the shops at the final stop? Entertainment? Frizby etc. Any one have a good camera/video camera? I was never a scout, just like to be prepared

I can answer the fuel pump location question. Thats if Series 1 and 2 are the same, I have a series 2. Its in the bottom of the fuel tank, accessed under the right side 'boot' floor. Remove the floor Unscrew filler cap to release the pressure in the tank. Undo the Sender and return lines. (watch out for the that'll come out) remember which is which!!! unscrew the big cap over the tank and remove the centre piece(not sure its real name) Put your hand straight down you should feel a small box, it has a little clip that holds it down inside the tank. Unclip and pull it up, it will be full of fuel to becareful. Inside this box is the fuel pump. As for problems, it shouldnt be. There is a pump that is a direct replacement for the stock pump, I think its a Bosch one 040 maybe, fits the standard box and the plugs are also the same so no rewiring. My mate has the exact specs of the pump if you need it. Hope that helps.

Its the Dream World exit, go around the round-about and over the freeway Can't remember the sign, but its hard to miss.

i havent made changes to the solenoide wire, it looks to be standard. Although my stagea makes a lil bit under 9psi on full boost, but this is showing on the guage before 3000rpm. The car does have a MiNes ECU would this possibly ignore the 'half boost' mode? It still feels like it pulls harder from 4500rpm, but still makes same boost level. Car also a 3 inch exh. from the turbo. Any ideas would be great. Thanks.