RANDY

If anyone has one lying around after doing a catch-can installation, i'm keen to get a good/perfect condition breather pipe. Mine has a small split in the end, so it needs to be replaced. I'm sure a new one wouldn't cost much, but a used one should do me fine. Anyone have one? Cheers!

Soo... 87a is the circuit for naturally closed, and 87 is naturally open. You've got a single pole, double throw relay right? SPDT So when the coil is activated, 87 will join the circuit. When the coil is off, 87a will join a different circuit. I'm not sure what exactly you're doing, or how you can join two of them together though... A double pole, double throw will let you join one circuit while turning another one off, and then vice-versa. As far as how to "do it", i'm not sure what you're exactly doing. =-[

Just a wild guess... exhaust allows the turbo to push harder at lower revs (earlier spool etc), but if the fuelling can't match it... problems? Or if the car *is* heavily modified in terms of boost/cooler/etc, it could just be the rich and retard problem even? TOO much fuel? These are just really random and wild stabs in the dark. I don't think anyone could definitively say what the exact problem is without some element of a guess. (short from actually working on the car and diagnosing) My money is still on coils though. =-] An S14 mate of mine had the same thing, but then he put a tuned length manifold on and it went away. There are some strange, strange things that happen with cars. =-/

Ah well.. no biggie! Prolly rear-ended at some point in its life, so the boot was replaced, and new taillights went in... and i'd guess that someone skimped on the sealant with the new lights. My taillights were all factory gooped, but the water was coming in the threaded rod part of the taillight that goes through the boot wall. Try the water trick to test... find out where the leak is, then take action. Shouldn't take more than a day if you have to run around getting sealant and a caulking gun, or order a new boot seal... whatever the culprit is.

He gave it back to you without the intercooler connected?? =-o Man... it doesn't sound like he puts much pride in his work or reputation at all!

Soo.... fogging up? In which way? Condensation, or the hazy plastic problem that some R33's seem to have? I have to get out the ol' plastic polishing cream and buff my headlights like crazy every couple of months to get them clear again. It sure isn't condensation on the inside, is this the same problem as you have? If it's condensation, then I can see how the "hole-drilling" would help but if it's the magical "I bought it from Japan and now the plastic hates Australian climates" problem, i'm keen to hear more suggestions!

I'm afraid you're mistaken =-] The switch on the dash will give you either full-height or half-height when the antenna is already triggered to go up. Pressing "down" on the switch when the antenna is up will only bring it half-down. It won't do squat when the antenna isn't triggered to move.

One more way? =-p Splits *are* the "bomb", but rarely can you install splits in the rear of a car without some fancy mounting skills. So... Generally 3 way are better than 2 way because there are more drivers to split the frequencies up... this in mind, I hate them! The cone has to slide up the pole that holds the tweeter and mid, and I never have much luck finding 3-ways where the bass driver still sounds tight. The rear is supposed to be for "fill", and because of the positioning in most cars, you'll probably lose any staging that might be possible with good speakers. So i'd probably just use splits without the tweeters. Just the bass driver doing full range or even just mid. The tweeters up front will do all the highs you need, I recken.

So... how stock is this? 4500 is where the dual stage solanoid switches from 5psi to 7psi... and I think the vvti changes over around that range also? I couldn't accurately guess what the problem is... short from some kind of fuel issue (if your pump is semi-dead)

Highly unlikely dude. More likely if it only hits under load, that your engine mount on the torque side is stuffed, and the motor lifts up and hits the piping. The piping probably doesn't move from the turbo because of some silicone joiner taking the flex. That's a loooong shot, but I don't see why it's not possible?

Mine's been doing it for two years now. It's not getting any worse, and I only hear it with the AC fan off and radio off... meh! =-]

Umm.. for a start. The antenna doesn't give off 12v. Your "accessories line out" (remote) gives it power. That wire is only supposed to be for telling the amp to turn on. (via the amps "remote" wire). Hooking it up to the antenna control wire will make it go up whenever the headunit is on. (not just on radio) If the headunit doesn't have a power antenna out wire, you might want to just hook up the antenna wire to a switch and do it manually. It sounds like you've tried to fix that when you were testing. That out of the way, i'm assuming that your amp runs the speakers and not a sub? If so, swap the RCA input L and R from the amp and see if the noise swaps sides. If it doesn't, then you might have a speaker problem. If it does switch sides, then it could be the RCA cable or headunit. Swap the speaker outputs on the amp from left to right also... that should test that the amp isn't doing it... and so on. OH man.. re-reading this... you're using the REAR RCA outputs on the headunit to the amp... and then what? Running FOUR speakers from the amp? If so, use the front RCA output and see if the noise is still there. That will rule the headunit out too!

See linky in my sig! =-]

I'd check the wiring to the motor or anything you disconnected. The motor can go in reverse, so it should be totally fine to swap the positive and negative around. I'd bet money that it's just reversed wiring somewhere. You can do the same on an RC car motor, and it'll go backwards when you want forwards. No schottky diodes on them anymore!

Get up to 50-60 and put the boot right in. If it's a coil problem, it might happen at a much lower revs if you really boot it. (but don't speed... .back off at 70-80) Mine did the same with a faulty coil and I could force it to happen earlier with an aggressive foot and too high a gear.

That part fit perfectly on my 3" cat. I believe it's the bracket at the end of your dump/front pipe, where it meets the cat? If so, that holds the weight of the dump/front section so that it doesn't lever off the turbo and break the bolts or crack the turbo.

By "freely", it probably won't spin when you let go, but it shouldn't take much effort to rotate it. It'll be making a very loud wind/whooshing noise if it's completely locked up. (like the first 5 minutes after turning your car on in the morning)

I'll add more helpful advice! "gently" =-p Pull the sills gently. Start at one end, don't flex it too much, and it will POP off. Sounds bad at the time, but it's fine. Then you can run them down the side of the carpet, and over the upside down U bit by the passenger seat... up under the rear seat, and through the side where the strut tower is, which opens up into the boot area. Oh, and a 16mm or so socket will take the seatbelt rails off the floorpan, so you can run the cables beneath that. Just be sure to put everything back in nice and tight!

Oh, and the white bit *IS* still there according to your picture. It has to press in fairly far (with a fair amount of force) while you tug the whole plug out. You should only pull from the white part of the plug on the cable-side. I found if you lever the white button part of the plug while pushing it down, it helps lever the whole plug out. Stuff that though. Too much risk in breaking the connections or something, just unscrew the control as I said above. It fits through the hole no problems. =-D

Failing that, i've unscrewed it from the handle a few times because I was too lazy to try and unclip it. 4 screws and it dangles there, and will fit through the hole in the doorskin when you remove it off the door. Then you can rest the whole control on the metal bracing where the inner door handle usually sits in. (right-hand side of your pic) But yes, it's a prick to pull off. (hehe!)

Fuel filler, from what i've read here. A mate of mine had the same thing (very strong smell when cornering) and it ended up being a crack in the rubber surround of the filler... which is added when complianced. (at least on his car it was)

I complained a lot in the O2 sensor thread (many pages long!) about poor economy. I would consistantly get 350k's to a fill. (about 52L) I changed everything, cleaned everything. The car was totally stock. So i've put a 3" split dump pipe on, fixed broken studs, changed the cat (still stock from cat-back) and upped the boost to 10psi, and I get 380-400 to a tank EVERY TIME. So... i'd put that down to an A/F ratio change. I'm using less throttle to get the same power because of the extra air coming in, so less fuel at that map-point in the ECU. You might have (as someone else suggested) a poor AFR. Cleaning the AFM should increase your usage, by my reasoning? If it can "see" more air coming in because it's nice and clean and not insulated with dirt, it will squirt MORE fuel to match. Oh well. Clean it anyway. ;o)

When you checked your AFM... how did you check it? Quick test is to unplug it, then try to start it with about 50% throttle. If it catches but barely runs then you have the old "dead AFM for no apparent reason" problem. A mate had this, but when I hooked up Consult to it, it said that the AFM was reading voltage. No errors or anything. Weird!

Prolly wrong area to ask, but on an R33 there are hex-like things that stick out of the headlights (when you pop the bonnet and look at them from behind) Middle top and bottom ones do low-beam, and the ones towards the middle of the car (behind the highbeams) do the highbeams. Line up at your local mall carpark, on a nice flat level... park a reasonable distance from the wall. (say, about the amount of distance you would leave when following someone at 60-80kmh) and then get your 8 or 10mm socket and ratchet onto those hex's, and start winding until your headlights just register on the bottom of the wall. Any higher, and you start blinding people. (and you will have me return the favour if I see you!) Don't wind for ages in any one direction. Check where the cups are in relation to the headlight assembly. You *CAN* accidentally wind them so far that they start denting into the black assembly parts... so check them occasionally (when they're off!) with a torch. Take a towel with you, and cover one light while you adjust, so you can see the effects of each adjustment to each headlight.

Which suburb for pickup? I might be interested in whatever the other Joe doesn't want. PM please =-]