bradsm87

Tein super street is cheap shit that Tein make a shit load of money off because ppl buy it because it's Tein. The shocks are shit and the height is only adjustable on the spring perch so if U don't have it within 15mm each way of the centre of the suspension travel, u'll either be hitting bump stops or lifting wheels. Greddy Type S would be better but far too stiff. Tein Mono Flex are a far better option. They're about $150 more a set than Greddy Type S. The shocks are better in them but again, although better than the Greddy's, the springs still seem too stiff for street use. EDFC is for VERY lazy people and you're much better spending the extra money on a better product than bling like that. Tein Mono Flex for R33 - $1908 with today's exchange rate plus shipping on perfectrun.jp . If it was me, I'd ditch the 8k front and 6k rear springs and fit some 5k front and 4k rear and a pair of whiteline swaybars. It'll handle better and be much more comfortable than 8/6 with stock swaybars. Edit: ah shit I just realised U already have em. http://www.perfectrun.jp/src/detail.php?pid=34005

Flutterdump is when the BOV is a cheap POS or the spring in the BOV is too stiff and U back off and it starts fluttering then the BOV vents. It's considered a problem and can be fixed with a much softer spring. As long as the BOV is plumbed back like it should be, it can be soft enough to stay open on idle without and probs. As soon as U give it the tinyest bit of throttle, it slams shut.

Why on earth would U want an electric power steering pump? It'd put a huge load on the alternator and cause the same or more resistance to the engine because the alternator and electric pump aren't 100% efficient. I see no advantage.

Do it man. That really sounds IDEAL.

By the looks of that pic, it looks like it already has some form of aftermarket camber adjustment. WHeels not fitting if car is higher makes no sense at all. When it's raised, the camber goes positive but it's corrected with a wheel alignment. then when it does hit a bump, it'll have more negative camber when it retracts into the guards and more clearance.

What caster setting did you get after you installed the caster rods? You did get an alignment didn't you? What are all the alignment specs you're using? I'd suggest to at least raise the rear up by 10mm to make it about 15mm less from wheel centre to guard than the front like it should be. I just read the bit about it needing to be that low to accomodate ur rims. That's BS IMO. If anything, it looks sorta retarded bein so low at the back compared to the front and would look better higher in general. If the coilovers are only height adjustable at the base of the coil and not at the mount, it's probably riding on bump stops which is BAD. Also try turning the shocks up stiffer at the back and softer at the front.

Ok for r33/r34 GTR only then.

And how is that? Be specific. So because u have a quick gtr mean's there's no point thinkin outside the box to make it quicker? I guess audi, porsche, mercedes, R35 GTR etc Have it all wrong then. Caster must be useless.

Yeh it'd be possible but would require modifying stuff for clearance. Would be nice to get lots of caster and no rubbing anywhere. Also I dunno how far u can go without stuffin up the angle of the front driveshaft.

I think 5.5 - 6 degrees is acheivable which has gotta make a difference. With urethane bushes and coilovers with relatively short suspension travel, just having the end of the upper arms 'turned' compared to the inner part of the arm would be more than sufficient without causing much deflection of the bushes at all. Changing the position of the bracket wouldn't be necessary. I am more thinkin for an R33 or R34 anyway. That's why i said the bush type ones. They make both pillow ball and bush type arms.

Not true at all in my opinion. More caster gives u more camber on the outside wheel when cornering (when you need it) and allows U to run less static negative camber so better braking grip and better traction for 4WD's. So a way to DOUBLE the standard 3 degrees to 6 degrees is a small gain? That's why I said the angle of end of the upper arm has to be different to make up for the caster. I can't see why it can't be done easily. There are some decent ones out there like the ikeya formula bush type ones but pricey (well worth it IMO)

Nothin to do with the S14. They don't even have front upper arms. Question applies to skylines only.

Just wondering why nobody makes an upper arm for skylines that positions the outer bushes further backwards and tilted to get more positive caster without crazy bush deflection? They could be used in conjunction with caster rods to get like 5.5 degrees of caster in a GTR without huge rubbing problems couldn't they? Just very interested to know why nobody does them???

Nismo don't do side feed 480cc injectors. The only 480's they do are for the neo engines which use totally different injectors. Yes S15 injectors have 4 holes. Yes you will need to up the fuel pressure a bit to safely hit 300.

No error codes. Have borrowed my mate's laptop with Nissan Datascan and consult cable but I can never catch it doing it with the laptop plugged in and I can't borrow the laptop for more than a few hours. I'm lookin at the PCB in the AFM now and the solder joints look a little dry but not cracked off. My mate has already purchased another S2 AFM that looks grottier on the outside but u never know!

I've got a mate with an R33 GTS-T Series 2. He knows the previous owner who has imported it and looked after it well. It's straight and very tidy looking. The only mods it has is a pod filter, FMIC and 3" turbo-back exhaust. It used to misfire badly but that problem has been resolved with new spark plugs and Spitfire coil packs. Series 2's have ignitors built in to each coil pack so the ignitors have effectifely been replaced as well. I have cleaned every single connector on the car with contact cleaner, rubbed the paint back behind all the major earths for a better connection, cleaned AFM, checked all wiring for damage, cleaned piping, blocked hole in BOV, all the usual stuff to help get it running sweet. The previous owner has replaced the fuel pump with a brand new nissan one. You can be driving along and the ignition and fuel would just CUT. Can be for long enough to stop and can be in the form of a brief cut then away you go. It doesn't pop or anything when it cuts back in which leads me to believe it is spark and fuel. Not 100% on the fuel bit but ignition is DEFINATELY cut. All the dash lights that are usually on when the car is running remain on. It's not like a pop or bang, just like if u turned the key off while driving. The previous owner has taken it to a few of their trusted places time and time again without success. Any help or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

It depends what your current ride height is and if your factory camber adjustment is already at max adjustment.

At a minimum, Greddy Type S is a good start for cheap. about $1900 should get U a set with the current AUD. They used to be cheaper.

The new Coppermix is completely different to the older G-Max clutches. They are HUGELY smoother.

OK my bad. Use the 87mm pistons that come with the stroker kit then.

I'd go a JUN 2.7L crank with custom rods and 88mm pistons in an RB30 block. Best of both worlds. 2.75L for a bit more down low than an RB26 and high rod to stroke ratio to just KEEP ON REVING!

Guilt-toy, why don't you try running 50% BP Ultimate and 50% E85? That should give you more power out of the injectors compared to 100% E85 but more power than the BP Ultimate because of the higher octane rating. If you max out your injectors too early, try slightly lowering the boost until the injectors max out right on redline. Should be good for 400 i reckon! It'd be a pain in the ass mixing it all the time but i reckon it'd be the perfect balance, especially considering you max out your injectors too early on E85.

Maybe -30 intake temps at first but around a track, the water warms up a fair bit even with a large radiator at the front.

Dyno queens? They don't give more power than FMIC's. They have much better throttle response due to sustantially shorter piping and lower pressure drop.