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bradsm87

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bradsm87 last won the day on December 15 2010

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About bradsm87

  • Birthday 06/04/1987

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    Hobart, Tasmania

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    Nissan 200SX S14a
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    Brad

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  1. My vote goes to ditch AC, mount power steering pump down low and low mount turbo, trying to get turbine inlet flange as close to the centre line of the exhaust ports as possible.
  2. Just don't put a turbo too small on it. It's high comp and you're running pump fuel so U gotta go medium-large turbo and low boost. Definitely not a stock turbo IMO. GTX3067R .82 would work well.
  3. Full boost at 3300 if loaded up in a high gear from low RPM. Transient throttle at anything above 3700 is insanely, insanely quick on to boost. Comes on gradually and very controllable if loading up from low rpm. If u hit the throttle at 4500-ish, u gotta be careful becomes on very fast and hard.
  4. The 1.05 is prob a bit big. The .92 easily,easily will achieve that goal. I have a 2.15L SR20 with a 7064 .92 and Poncams (tiny) and mine made 258rwkw on about 16psi with very,very conservative timing. It goes a lot harder now but haven't dynoed it since. Still can't afford to take it in for another run. With 24-26psi and 260 degree Procams, it'd go off it's head (Prob 350 odd rwkw. My injectors/gearbox/clutch would not support that level of power).
  5. There are a lot better options around these days.
  6. The IWG on the .92 housing would only ever be a problem if you were trying to run very low boost on a V8 or something. Generally on any RB or whatever, you need to run a lot of boost to make a lot of power. To run a lot of boost, the gate needs to be more closed. The more boost you run (making more power), the smaller the gate you need. Putting a bigger than necessary gate on just means that it will be more closed for the same target boost level. 800hp through a .92 IWG:
  7. My favourite thing about EFR turbos is doing this (very, very quick clutch tap from 2500rpm): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9FWbtCK2HQ That's 3rd gear up a hill. Waaaay too scared of breaking the gearbox to do it in 4th.
  8. Is that one wastegate pipe coming out of both sides of the divided manifold?
  9. New turbine/housing options listed on match bot too. Also found an awesome read on mixed flow turbine wheels with a mention of the pros/cons of using TiAl - http://www.hindawi.com/journals/ijrm/2012/589720/ Needless to say, I'm very excited about the 7163 in 0.80 twin scroll (although I hope the 0.80 comes out for my 7064 because I'm not changing turbos any time soon)
  10. The dyno run with a fairly quick ramp rate did not represent the on-road boost threshold. It showed full boost at around 3800 on the dyno. I'm now running my E30 mix and have added 2psi of boost across the board and around 6 degrees more timing in most of the full load cells with no sign of knock. I didn't push it any further but I plan to get it in to the tuner in a month or so see if has any more headroom and get a good dyno printout with RPM and at a slow ramp rate.
  11. If u want full boost at high-2000's, your options are: a) Put a tiny turbo on it that will make no more than about 90kw at the wheels when pushed to the limit. b) Get a bigger engine.
  12. Get an N1 block for a start. There are plenty of GTRs out there putting out 650-ish kw at the wheels on non-N1 blocks and N1 blocks are meant to be even stronger.
  13. For next time Geoff check this thread: Will the .80 divided housings only be for B1 frame turbos or will they do it for the 7064 as well? I'd be soooo keen for a little smaller housing on my 7064 to get full boost under 3000rpm
  14. My EFR 7064 recovers from shifts around the same as a GT2871R. Pretty good considering the 2871 has a 54mm turbine wheel and the 7064 has a 64mm one.
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