400HP

No actaully I have a feeling he told me it was a plasmaman unit. I'm not sure but I think this is what he said.

:D Franky do a search for a thread started by me about resetting ECU theres one from a few months back when i first got my car.

Yeh leave it all nite... same deal. Apparently pushing the brakes drains the bats...... Its more like Alt-F4 Yes... you'll have to retune 106.5 love song dedications on your FM radio

should be the same as R33's dude.... jsut disconnect the battery... push the brakes a few times... leave it for 15 mins or say then wire it up and take it for a thrash I been meaning to do it as well actaully....we can do it next week if you want

no ... you don't lose any. All point loss offences are listed on the RTA website.

Joel - so you think the problem came from the thickness and used brake fluid? Well I haven't changed the fluid for the last 10k's so I'll probably be doing it this weekend. What else did you do to check the problem? did you take out the pads at all and see if anything was around them?

6 weeks is possible if your car is coming from Hokkaido. If its Kobe I doubt it would be 6 weeks. I have imported two cars myself and they took 3 weeks from tokyo. you should: 1) find out which port its leaving from 2) find out the name of the shiping company 3) find out the actual ships name 4) call up the actaul company here and confirm most of the shipping companies or at least the port authorities here should know if the ship is coming. If no one knows any of these details then it sounds dodgy to me.

what do you mean by rekit the calipers?

Well I was told by a few shops you didn't need to put em back in. I might put em back in just to see if they ARE the cause of the clamping but I doubt it. Those shims are the only shims that were in the caliper. I'll let youi know how it goes hehe

The clunking noise seems to be coming from the rear brakes. And I can only really hear it at lower speeds. I only changed my rear brakes about 2 months or so ago (leaving the fronts) and no discs have been machined. I thought it could be something I've done when I changed the pad. I removed the shims but I doubt this has anythig to do with it as I've spoken to quite a few workshops about this and they say its fine. I've been to wakefield and driven hard a few times since and its not so bad that its not driveable... Mine are like yours.... I think they lock for a tiniest fraction of a second. Barely noticeable.... as i said the noise is coming from the brakes... I don't notice any noise from the actual pedal. I think even if its not the same problem it could be similar. When I changed my pads I also did what you did... I pushed the calipers in by hand with the bleed nipple open... very strange..

Let me know what happens. I have a similar kind of problem although not as extreme. When I press the pedal... for a very split second the brakes making a *clunk* noise where no actual brake pressure is applied... then the brakes come on very hard. I'm not sure what it is either so let me know what happens to yours. Cheers

I doubt it only happens in America... I've heard of a few incidents where workshops have crashed cars "testing" customer cars anyway that thread is very fkn entertaining... 63000hits so far!

okay I'll try measure it. It was fitted in a mirage so it will fit in anything. If you're on a budget for subs it sounds VERY good. The reason for sale is that I am getting better louder newer subs. you can even see the subs working if you want.

*doof doof doof*

PMed you

I have two Sony 12" subs for sale. They are sealed in a professionally made custom box with grey carpet type stuff (dunno what its called). They haven't really been used much and sound quite good. Easy fit in an R33 skyline... Asking $250 for the lot.... (Sydney buyers only)

u wanna sell your sub?

as title says in Sydney please

well I dunno how big I should get... my current cat back is a 3 or 3.5"... I'm looking at getting a tuned length front pipe and decent dumps... I'm also wondering whether its worthwhile getting it done here at a place like HiTech or just getting the jap parts... obviously the jap parts are tried and tested but I'm wondering if anyone has any experince with the local stuff?

Hi guys.... I'm considering getting a dump pipe and front pipe have people realised a noticeable gain from this? Some people say that it improves power in the low end... what are your experiences?

as title says only want Sydney sellers

When braking at low speeds my rear brakes make this clunking noise just before it breaks..... this is only at low speeds. It doesn't seem to affect braking performance at all but its really weird. This only happened after I put my new pads in but only after around 3000km after.... Anyone know what this is?

s13 drifter... I partially disagree with your comment... yes the 33 GTR isn't as fast as either the 32 or 34 (by 10ths of seconds on a quartermile) and in the experience of people who have driven it its not as 'pure' a car but I definitely wouldn't go as far as to say its a "daily driver car" no where near as much of a race car.... it definitely is still close enuf to a race car and given equal drivers for all three cars I reckon yes it probably would come last but not by much... its still a GTR... it still has ATESSA... it still has an RB26DETT...

I can't remember the replacement. But many of the toyota turbo models such as the Mark2, Laurel and Chaser have been merged into a few models that bridge the gap between the different kinds of cars...... none of the engines are turbo... YET! I THINK the RB's have already been discontinued... the V35 at the moment has an atmo engine.... dunno if turbos are on the horizon...

I'm 99% sure that the JZX100 is already a single setup. Anyway the Chaser has already been discontinued in Japan as of this year. I think all 2JZ and 1JZ engines are being discontinued.. some already are such as the JZA80 Supra, Mark 2 I believe has also been discontinued. Yes these engines are being discontinued for emissions. No idea about production cost. Yes if you buy an aftermarket turbo you should buy a new ECU. Its not really as simple as just changing a setting on the handset I think. With different turbos you probably need to upgrade different things. For example in a GTR if you edn up getting a single conversion it is usually a pretty big turbo. This means upgading a lot more things than just the turbo.... such as intercooler, ECU, injectors and the whole fuel system like fuel pump an regulators etc, AFM's lots of things..... in order for all these things to be tuned properly aftermarket ECU is needed.