Mildman

Yeah I'm still interested. I managed to get one from the Silvia forums, but a spare wouldn't hurt. Maybe send me a pm if you still have one and we can talk further. I'd have a few questions like km's, if it is still in a car, etc.. Regards,

Thanks for the tip, I've dropped a request on boostcruising as well, I'll put a request on nissansilvia.com as well. I like the sound of a motor for 2 slabs of beer (as long as it works)

Wanted: A full CA18DE motor with box, incl accesories, loom, ECU, alternator etc... Power steer or A/C are not really required. It's all for a little (hmm understatement) project I'm doing at the mo' Regards,

I was racing at Sandown today and a fairly hot R33 GTR went head first into the Armco railing at a fair rate of knots. The engine survived but FMIC was totalled. And...under the new CAMS regs he has to pay for the Armco railing that he bent!

By the way wrxhoon, which car do you use as a daily driver, the rex or the gtr?

I'd say $600 is quite a reasonable price to for that type of work, if you look at racing sumps they start at more likely twice that price. I've seen some advertised..somewhere..for well over $5000! My gut feelings tell me though that if you are dragging it is not as important as if you were circuit racing. In my experience - seeing 3 RB's go boom at the track, that were all at high speed cornering tracks - eg Phillip Island. So the lateral G seems to have a much higher propensity to cause no.6 big end bearing drama, rather than just going in straight lines really quick.

Well I was just thinking if it was too retarded, the bang is coming way to late, ergo none of the explosive force of combustion is used up in moving pistons, plus the volume in the cylinder is a fair bit higher....creating lean like conditions, resulting in a hotter exhaust gas. That was my dodgy theory anyways. Advancing it caused combustion to happen earlier, using more energy resulting in less heat. How does all that sound...plus I wanted to advance the timing anyway as it was feeling a little lethargic

No probs, there are special baffled sumps that you can buy - the even have one way doors in them - so the oil can flow through one way but not the other. Baffled sumps are expensive - but are the best insurance if you are going to do circuit racing....but for normal street driving it is not really a requirement.

Baffles are like walls in the sump. They stop the oil splashing up the sides of the sump and keeping it from sloshing away from where the oil pickup. Anywhere in the direct path of fresh cool air is the way to go.

Under heavy load and G forces the oil in the sump does not get adequately delivered to cylinder 6. The one at the fire wall. As wrxhoon recommends the sump should be baffled to ensure that is doesn't essentially run dry as all the oil is squeezed into the back or front under heavy acceleration/braking G's. A friend of mine stuck on oil cooler in as well to increase the survival chances of no 6.

I know this forum is pretty old now but did any of you guys check the alternator? These sort of problems, fuel cutting out, HICAS light coming on under load of power steer and headlights...a lot of times happens to be the alternator just can't provide charge to everything at once (if the alternator is dying). THis really pisses off the HICAS sensor, and when the car gets real upsets decides it just can't be bothered delivering fuel either.

Let me add to the general concensus that R32 oil gauges just make up whatever value they thinks sound good and display it on the dashboard in a haphazard fashion. If I were to put an oil pressure (aftermarket) in I would like it to measure as close as possible to the oil pressure in cylinder no 6 (right at the firewall) I have seen over 10 Skyline motors throw a leg out of number six....it is their achilles heel.

Oh by the way I checked out the R32 workshop manual situation, there is an R32 workshop manual for the rest of the car, but it is only availabile for the GTR (because this was Australian delivered). It goes for a measly $600...and will have some signifcant differences to the GTSt, but also I would hope the wiring would be very similar.

I can tell you that at idle it should be reading 6-7V when cold and 8-10V when warm (thats the AAC valve control signal) Hope that helps... Now that's for an RB20DET, it may vary for other engines

And the turbo survives that kind of punishment? Ouch