Mr Jollwah

The main purpose for using the Z32 ecu is that Nisstune have daughter boards that allow real time tuning with map tracing and they support wide band AF sensors (Tech edge i think). All this for approx 400$ + Install and a tune. I am going to use a Z32 AFM as I felt this would allow me to use the Z32 ECU maps untill I had the Nisstune daughter board installed.

Yeah the Z32 does control VCT, which is why I am choosing it over a RB20 ecu. Standard switching point is 5900 rpm on z32. Also z32 injectors are 370cc same as r33 i think. Anyone got any info on the stndrd boost control thing?

Thanks guys. Will probably use an older Z32 Ecu (8 bit). Probably install nistune daugtherboard at same time to iron out any problems. is there anyone who can shed some light on the factory boost control eg. does it work from the z32 ecu?

Am thinking of doing this instead of aftermarket ecu. Will be running Z32 Afm with FMIC and exhaust everything else will be standard. Will probably use one of nistunes boards for tuning eventually, but till then. I have just a few questions. - Does it matter what type of ECU (16 or 8 Bit). - Are The stock z32 maps suitable for RB25 - Will Z32 ecu run the standard boost control soleniod. - Can I run an external ignitor with my exhisting coils. - Are my exhisting knock sensors suitable. Any Help would be greatly appreciated.

Mine was doing this, Checked my afm for cleanliness and noticed it was covered in grime and air filter oil. Cleaned it out with brake kleen and all is well again.

Err Sorry Adriano was not aware of that. The RB30 Guide says that 34 heads have a different water/oil gallery design. Is this true? If so how much modification is required to fit onto RB30 Block.

True, was just thinking that a RB30DET based on the r34 RB25DET would be something different. With VVL, solid lifters and the like. I Guess that getting the constantly variable VCT working would be a pain. And for solid valve train you could just use the RB26 Head. I supose that there is not enough merit to justify the expense,except maybe that it could be a one of.

Just an idea does/has anyone used an RB30 Crank etc in a RB20/25/26/(RB25NEO) with sleaves and spacer plate like OK Giken do? Gets around oil squirter fitment, vct oil supply etc. How do you think it will compare to the usual RB30DET option.

www.justjap.com

Did my rear speakers removed back seat as described above. A screwdriver or some other lever helps with the lower part of the seat, just lever next/through the clips. I didn't remove my pillar trims etc, was just bloody carefull when i removed the parcel shelf. Took 10mins max. P.S. Standard speakers were 6" round speakers, 6x9s might be a problem the parcel shelf is not flat you may need to mod your spacers. Good luck.

I imagine it would be similar to fitting a RB25 Head on to a RB30, Though the RB26 has larger head bolts or something like that. Check out the RB30 Guide will answer a lot of questions.

I agree discopotato the non-gated housing does look familiar. might be a good thing on GT3071 or GT3076 Anyway looked on hpinabox website and decided that one of their GT2871R with nissan hotside is what i need. The wastegated turbine on the GT3271 seems to be quite similar to KKR offerings me thinks that these turbos use a turbine housing based on a diesel design. Does anyone think that the GT3271 maybe better that the KKR 430. Just a thought. Thanks Guys.

Yeah i knew it looked weird just tryin to be a tightarse, only $1100. I suppose that is expensive if it is not suitable. Twin scroll GT3071R looks great but i think it maybe to big. As I am after low to midrange power. Shame GT2871R doesn't come in T3 Flange. Does ATP make a twin scroll turbine housing for the GT2871R as i feel that would be ideal.

Was thinking it could be ok with the 0.69 AR Turbine.

Have done a search and couldn't find much info about anyone trying a GT3271 as a upgrade for a RB25, is it no good am i missing something? Would it be suitable for someone who's car is 100% street driven. Turbine A/R can be either 0.78 or 0.69 (wastegated) Anyway here is the comp map.

Cheers Guys, Am waiting to pick it up. Will try it in the diff too. Can't wait the old oil is shagged and my line has a short shifter. Nasty cold shift for sure.

Must be good stuff!! will give it a go. Thanks Uras if the RRP is that I don't mind paying a couple of extra bucks to get it local.

have removed a couple of eingines from old holdens and the like. we used a post with some chain wrapped around it then bolted to the engine under the head bolts. Bit Agricultural i kno. Also have taken an RB30 outa VL used a block and tackle tied to the rafters in the shed with some old seat belt tied onto the engine lifting points/brackets. Good luck anyway. It will really suck if you are outdoors and have to lift it out, have 3-5 strong guys there to help.

Thinking of trying Motul Gear 300 (75w90) in the gearbox of my R33GTST. Is anyone using it. Comes in at $40 a litre from repco maybe gettin ripped tho.

Here's mine, Quite stock atm. Rims, pod & apexi coilovers are it for the moment. Exhaust and FMIC are in the works.

Just did my cambelt,tensioner and idler pulleys @ 88,000 K (Old belt noisey). Went the same way as chook recommended was all good. Std belt has timing marks on it and it runs nice and quiet.

Me too.

Was thinking of shorter intercooler plumbing, tho poor casting quality has most likely put me off. you get what u pay for I suppose. Might be usefull for RB30DET for bonnet clearance. But if you can afford build one of those u'd just buy the Greddy manifold.

I Just use nissan 7.5W30 for engine and motul gear oil for gearbox and diff. seems to work ok.

Is anyone using an autotechnica pelumn. Unsure if it is ok.