phat_man

+1 on the hicas part, i bought two, one non hicas (i thought it would work perfectly) then i bought a hicas one. so much better with the hicas one. Whyte has an awesome write up on NS.com give it a try, its not that hard. goodluck champ.

its not easy, but remember to pull that little metal bit from inbetween the button and the sleeve 1st, then u can stick the screw driver in between, helps heaps if u have a thin one. put it in and bend it up and down then put it in further and just keep doing it till the whole thing isnt stuck onto the lever. goodluck, issa.

spotted a 4door 33 going down cumberland rd auburn yesterday.

yea man, bought a HKB hicas one 2day from justjap for 99, its awesome, powersteering works perfectly, and doesnt seem like the steering wheel is on to tight when i tighten it up. the other one from gktech is hopeless for hicas, got the blinkers to click back but it was still crap. HKB hicas FTW. now its awesome, just like stock but better wheel.

lol, i thought that would be it really its just supposed to disengage the spring, in the perfect world it would be better to remove the spring as its no longer needed. but its a flamin mongrel to get out, so just disengage the spring by bending the lil studs out. i was lost when i did it as we'll, it felt so shonky, it wasnt right. all it is, not leting the handbrake lock. what usually does this is the lil spring, if you just do that, whats gona push the button back out and make it lock again, so you spend crazy amounts of money on something so small and simple, just so it has a knob so u can pull it out when u want the hand brake to lock. out=locks in should go up and down freely. lol just explaing it so well (even though its so simple) so you dont think like i did when i got it, like how f**kin gay it is. salem, issa.

lol yea i figured it wont even come off if u did cut the stitching, its got rubber under it. yea its just like the s13, get the screw driver to loosen it and break the seal on the metal then yank it out, then u'll see these pins that hold the spring in place, bend them out so they dont hold the spring anymore, then put the cover back on, then put the 'drift' button back on over the stock one. anytime abu bakar, issa.

i just took it for a drive, seemed much better, i did some of my own modifications. got electric tape under the sensors, enough so i could push down and it would stay up, then taped around them both (note thats why i put tape under so i could do so). taped around them so there stuck to the boss kit lol, im running no back plate on the boss kit, just the tape (acts like the back plate), but i still have the steering wheel not so tight. im thinking if i get the HKB ones, would it feel just like stock, or does it still have the same drama's? cheers, issa. *edit* thanks so much for the reply mate, really appreciate it.

i bought a boss kit off GKtech, really good service and got hear quick to. but now ive installed it, i got the blinkers clicking back, but the steering wheel isnt. its asif i have it on to tight or something, when i loosen it up, it starts to go back but not as quick as stock would, plus its on loose for it to do that. when its on tight, its also harder to turn. anyone know whats it from? i really want to know, its worse then driving without powersteering, really annoying me. should i go get the pricey just jap ones? (dont wana spend another 100$ on useless mods) cheers, issa.

nah dont do that man you'll stuff it. i had the same drama when i put my "drift button" in like 2 weeks ago. get a thin flat head screw driver, and fit it in where the leather meets the metal part of the hand brake, push it in and wiggle it around so it loosens up the leather, do it all round it then pull it off with ur muscles. btw make sure you pull out the litte black metal piece around the normal hand brake button. look at ur hand brake an you'll get what i mean. btw dont worry about it loosening to much, i put mine back on and its tight as. cheers, issa. edit* make sure its not just actual leather, its also the soft stuff under the leather that you gotta squeeze the flat head into. so basically inbetween the metal and what ever else there is.

anyone here in the force? 3rar in particular, spotted a nice grey r32 gtr as i entered holsworthy, i beeped

sorry to hear dude, your situtation sucks balls. i would definately see if the workshop you did the work at had anything to do with it. they werent gona steal it unless they knew what it had done to it. my 1.888cents, goodluck finding it mate, i hope you get it in one piece. cheers, issa.

spotted a grey r32 turning onto rawson st in auburn today, gave me the nod of approval

Make: Nissan Model: 1992 r32 gts-t Transmission: manual Colour: black Location: auburn, sydney Currently registered? yes, till september 08 Price: $12000 Contact: pm me or 0424742563 Comments / Modifications: custom 3" turbo back exhaust, HKS pod, HKS turbo timer, Apexi bov, Apexi boost gauge, custom intake pipe, HKS springs and nismo shocks. car has been looked after really well, clean inside and out, never been in a big accident, very few scratches on body. inspection welcome. never harrassed by cops in it, looks stock and goes really well. 4 pot brakes up front and 2pot at the back (type M option upgrade) as well as a option upgrade from the normal LSD diff. no sunroof. reason for sale, i need a sprinter in my life. Images: ok, SAU blocks my pictures, so for pics look HERE PS. no tyre kickers, if your not interested in buying, dont comment. cheers, issa.

Thank you everyone for you help. i have found the problem to my idling issue... well actually my cousins mechanic found it. it was a seizing throttle body, it was getting caught on all the shit stuck in there, so he gave it a good clean with some carby cleaner and i was on my merry way, its still seizing up a little, its just the last of the grim getting sucked away... i hope anyway. at least its not stalling anymore and idles properly. thanks alot, everyone esp to GEETR for your help. cheers, issa.

i have the same problem, i cant seem to get the rubber handle off so i can put a "drift" button on.

as title states, i need to know the differences (ratios, strength etc..) between the s1 gearbox and the s2 gearbox, and the differences between a r33 s1 diff and a s2 diff. do the r33 tailshafts with the r32 diffs? is there anything else with a higher diff ratios? sorry about all the questions, but i need to know this for a project. thanks in advance, issa.

sorry to hijack, but is there a difference in s1 gearboxes and s2 r33 boxes? cheers, issa.

looks awesome mate, both the car and the dyno sheet, well done. worth the wait. congrats.

update. i blocked the pipes where the red is, and i put a makeshift fliter on where the yellow is, it fixed the idle alot better, but it still sometimes idles lower and stalls when i slow down??? what else could it be. im pretty sure its got to do with that, as it started happening straight after i installed the intake pipe.

the last catch can setup im talking about, would that be the best way to go about it?

thanks alot for the help mate, i finally got a picture of my engine bay as it is now. as you can see the pcv pipe on the right is just open, it was bunged but its just flowing freely. whats my best bet; just put a filter on the end of it? put a filter and a one way valve so it cant suck but it can blow out? put a catch can so its just connected to the open pipe, and the other hose on the catch can goes under the car? or put a catch can with a filter on it so i block the lines from the plenum going to the head, then connect it so it connects to both the knobs on the head? im lost atm, thanks again for the help. issa.

edited so it makes sense.

thanks for that, i had a read, i think i get whats going on. now someone asked a question which no one answered in that thread and i want to know sort of the same thing. i had the pcv pipe that used to run into the air intake pipe bunged, now i unblocked it and it sucks air in, should i put* a valve on it so it can't* suck air in, but so it can* blow out? or should i leave it as it is and just put a filter on it, it still idles abit funny but the computer is learning, and sometimes it stalls before the computer can correct itself. so basically does it have to breath, or does it just have to blow out? edited* thanks alot, issa.

thanks alot GeeTR, your a champion. i get what you mean now, so its stalling because its sucking in air which isnt accounted for by the air flow meter. isnt this bad because its sucking it in from the top of the head? or does it need to be pressurised, thats why its in front of the turbo compressor standard. thanks alot, issa. edit: so just putting a filter over it wont stop my stalling problems?

fair enough, i miss interepted what you were trying to say, ma bad. update* i unblocked the PCV, but i still have this problem, im not sure why its stalling out, it cant be my fuel pump or my bov as it wasnt doing this before. thanks, issa.