89CAL
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Posts posted by 89CAL
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Stock turbo and manifold? I suggest the Stock wastegate
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Did you even read my post?......
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Give this guy a chance. He looks legit-
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Ill lend you the money at 38% interest
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210,000km*
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How bout you look under the car for anything obviously wrong?
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Engine has internals.... good to hear
As above, search "the goods on oils" but pretty sure it id stickied at the top of this section
I use 10w40 penrite 10tenths racing. Run in, i used cheap nulon mineral oil-
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Looks like you have connected the boost feed on the throttle body (which I believe is pre throttle and not MAP) to the BOV and the MAP line that is supposed to go to the BOV to the steel line for the charcoal canister.
So there should be 2 solid lines that go from the charcoal canister to around the cam covers (can sort of see them in that photo). One of these should be hooked up to the throttle body boost nipple and the other to manifold. Just check that is what is happening. As I said above, looks like youve mixed one up with the BOV line
Boost Tee should go between cooler pipe and wastegate (assuming internal gate, external can be a little more complicated)
Boost gauge should be fed from the manifold -
What on earth happened in here.......
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Can you get a video of it to show us?
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Is it absoloutly the AC? It behaves no differently free reving or driving really so you should be able to hear it with the car stationary
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Reset stock ECU? Sounds like AFM but you said youve changed that.
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So its not in limp mode then if it has no fault codes.......
So more detail on what it is doing? Not boosting well? Smells really rich? Misfires?
Is it on a standard ECU? -
Or I can sell you a new intake manifold.......
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Grab a small drill bit and drill, then go bigger slowly. Cobalt drill bits are one of the better options for this.
Drill the bolt out as much as you can before trying an easy out. If you manage to get it very central, you can drill it nearly all the way out and run a tap down it.
You will just have to be persistent. Make sure the drill bits stay sharp -
Does the noise go away immediately when you turn the A/C off? If so it shouldnt be leaking gas, more likely belt or compressor clutch
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I think you may have answered your own question....
Check all the coilpack and ignitor plugs, check the earth at the back of the coilpack harness. Check the wiring or plugs arent brittle and disturbing them had just upset them a little -
If its on the 'outside' then it can only really be the compressor or a leaking line. Perhaps something wrong with the A/C Fan on the condensor but doesn't sound consistant with what you have described.
Sounds like A/C Compressor if it changes with RPM. Could be an issue with a bearing of the clutch, or might be a belt issue also
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Was it a stock plastic radiator? Might have just been due to fail. Otherwise the only thing that causes too much pressure, is your radiator cap being faulty or incorrect
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Hmmmmmm
You do not need to hook the reg up to vacuum for it to work
The vacuum/boost supply changes the pressure to suit what the car is doing. More boost = more fuel pressure. Without the Vac line doing anything you will have what is called base pressure
I think its already been suggested but just in case. Fuel pump line should go to filter then to rail then from regulator to fuel return -
The car injects fuel differently depending on the water temp. So if your water temp is say 10 degrees, the car will run in a cold start mode and inject more fuel because it is colder
Like I said, this is all just guessing
I would strongly suggest hooking up the cooling system and correctly filling it to avoid any chance of the head or block warping or cracking -
You really need the car running to check the timing.
I think you have already checked it but the CAS isnt a tooth out or something along those lines?
Is it just the standard ECU?
Be interesting to plug consult into it if so and see if there is an issue. My thinking is possibly AFM or water temp sensor perhaps (ECU thinks its -50 degrees or so)
Fuel pressure regulator hooked up correctly?
Im thinking that there may be a dud sensor. Double check all the connections (pull them out and check the pins) but you may have a sensor that is connected correctly but internally faulty -
It sounds like it was never turned over by hand at various stages of the build.....
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RB25 Throttle Body standard vs 80mm throttle control
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
If the car is essentially stock, dont bother.
I put a Q45 TB on mine, because it bolts straight onto the Greddy/Freddy Intake manifolds. It is fairly possible it makes a difference, however I did alot of upgrades at once so hard to say. I would say if anything you may notice transitioning from closed throttle to open throttle there will be a little less fine control and it wont quite be as smooth but other then that, as above.
No idea what mods you have but the stock throttle body will do in most cases