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About 89CAL

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    Rank: RB30ET
  • Birthday 08/14/1989

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    R33 GTS-t
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  1. It is to the left of the steering wheel. Theres a little grille looking thing on the dash.
  2. Ahhh WD40 on the belts. Soapy water works much better because it dries and doesnt leave residue....... As above with the clutch fan, davies craig hubs tend to be on 100% all of the time however. Stock ones usually do the opposite when they wear out
  3. Gonna need alot more information? Intermittent injector pulse could describe normal operation really.....
  4. The sensor in the dash is unplugged or faulty (usually gets left unplugged when removing the dash trim) Pull the dash panel off and see if the hose and plug are installed
  5. Pull the pedal box out. They often break one of the spot welds. Do a search, theres been a few good threads on it from memory Easy fix, just weld it back up (weld it up a bit more than stock to futureproof it obviously)
  6. Get some 4mm and 3mm boost line and some nipples to suit. They are all one or the other. The thread in the manifold should be 1/8 NPT/BSPT i believe
  7. Stock ECU? Buy proper ECU
  8. Boost gauge, Fuel pressure regulator, carbon canister and blow off valve should be the 4. Larger port is brake booster
  9. The plugs are different from memory. The locating tangs are in different spots so you cant connect the wrong coils
  10. Which oil are you using? Im thinking of changing
  11. Did you ever mention what Fluid you are using? I'm finding it really hard to believe you are having this much issue with the pump itself, as per my post on the previous page, I ran mine DRY for about 30mins and it still works absolutely perfect to this day about 5 years on. I would do as suggested and remove the power steering belt, drive the car and see what happens. It is possible that hearing the noise is causing your brain to think there is a power steering issue. At least this will prove it is the power steering system. Does the noise change at all when you steer? Perhaps there is a bypass valve in the steering rack that has an issue? (I'm not 100% on how the racks handle the oil when there is no steering movement). Also, there is a solenoid for the power steering effort in the rack that controls the assistance based on speed (controlled by HICAS ECU). I have had this fault before and the steering is heavy all the time (ECU Failed)
  12. I still have dramas with mine, Thinking about changing oils and going away from redline lightweight, But the box feels so much nicer with redline oil in it. I'm fairly certain I bent the tube straight a while ago and still didn't fix the issue, thats when I went to the breather setup, but I'm getting problems like yours. Was starting to think I had put the one way baffle plate in the wrong way when I rebuilt the box but think I would have bigger issues if that was the case. Be interested to see where everyone else is at with this issue, I first thought someone mentioned a batch of lightweight shockproof that was doing this but it was not an issue with later batches but I've had a few bottles through mine by now
  13. RED: From 20A ACC fuse --> ACC Relay 2 --> Junction Block --> Keyswitch BLACK/RED: Front 10A IGN fuse/signal for IGN relay --> Keyswitch and tee's off to ECU also WHITE/BLACK: 10A Fuse --> Tee's to signal both ACC Relays and goes to Keyswitch WHITE/RED: ECU --> Keyswitch BLACK/WHITE: Starter Motor, Inhibitor switch (Auto Only) This is what my wiring diagram says anyway, looks fair enough
  14. Talk to Chequered Tuning about it, they seem to be good from what I see and you never know, they might pull up your tune and be able to see what is wrong without even having the car there. Otherwise, as above. Get someone to watch what it is doing when it happens. If you have a hand controller and someone who has half an idea you may even be able to pin point it off there. They may have put a large amount of safety in some cells when they tuned it, and its not in a cell you normally hit day to day driving but when there's a different load (i.e. Burnouts) then it just touches these cells I'm just guessing. If you have a hand controller log injector duty and timing then see if it spikes or drops when the fault happens. You can log airflow as well but I think something like injector duty or ignition timing will give you more of an idea
  15. Wow. Are you sure it doesnt still have a turbo timer somewhere? Sounds like what mine does, times normally unless the park brake is down (it just turns off then) so i would pull some dash panels and have a look at the ignition barrel wiring