89CAL
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Posts posted by 89CAL
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I feel someone is about to lose $20
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Idle car. Disconnect coilpacks one at a time. See if when you pull one the car still sounds the same (no noticable change in engine note) and that might be your dead coil
Sent from my SM-G950F using SAU Community mobile app-
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Yeah you really need it in a hole made for it or perhaps an adapter in the hot side of your oil cooler lines (if you have one) so you can put the sensor in the main flow of oil. VCT line will never flow enough in my mind
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One like this?
I've used one similar to this in the past with success
The tool pictured is just a Toolpro kit from supercheap. Harmonic Balancer puller kit
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Reeks of fuel, faulty plug or coilpack?
Whens the last time you changed the plugs?
I had a coilpack fail and it was real laggy but you could tell something was wrong just low speed driving
Do you have a wideband? Is it possible someone has increased the fuel pressure and thrown the tune out (richer)
Thr fact that it smells fuely when it plays up would make me want to explore that further - too much fuel injection or not enough air getting into the engine
As above, i would take it to the tuner, especially if you dont have a wideband installed. Could take him 5mins to work it out-
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I always forget to mention earths. I hate earth problems [emoji23]
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O.K
I will explain this
We are going to use some random injector values to make it easy
If your stock injectors are 250cc and at 3000rpm they are injecting at 50% of their maximum - 125cc injected
If you then put 500cc injectors in and dont change the tune to tell the ECU that there are bigger injectors in, guess what happens - 3000rpm you get 50% of the maximum - 250cc injected
It needs a tune
It needs alot of things by the sound of it -
Have you checked voltages with the car off, cranking and running?
Test those and report back
Im going to suggest it might be the starter motor if it is worse when the car is hot. And you have changed the battery. Interested to know the charging voltage (with car running)-
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The R34 one is slightly different I think
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Have you tried Google?
I had a quick look and their are kits available to do it........
Or you can buy the parts separately and build your own kit. Starting with something like this:
General kits etc:
More Results without trying that hard
Google......... There are some answers there
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Old post but I don't think those pipes are gold. Would have cost way too much to make.
Nissan never skimp on pipes -
Well you need to work out what is causing the misfire/cylinder drop out. If it is only making the noise when its playing up, it could just be a simple issue
Does it misfire randomly or is easy to make it happen? -
Massive thread dig. Has anyone replaced the O-ring's on their sump plugs? I replaced mine previously but must have just used a general O-ring and it leaked. Have used a high temp O-ring this time so will see how it goes. But just curious if anyone has had any issues with their O-Ring, or if anyone has ordered/sourced a new one?
I'm not sure Phil is still around these parts, but he's not cool anyway cause he sold his Skyline........
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Fairly sure one of the major companies that does fittings has oil drain to dash hose adapters. Then you will need to adapt the block to dash hose (think the block thread is 3/4 bspt) and get pirtek etc to make up a braided line. Or by the fittings and hose and do it yourself
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My answer was serious....
Modify the spanner if need be. Find the right one and bend it, cut and weld it to the right angle etc.
Otherwise you will have to take something off to get to it as you have suggested. Would it be easier to go from underneath?
Im pretty sure i removed a knock sensor from underneath once. Wasnt fun but was doable
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Correct size spanner.....
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Just a dodgy camera phone photo, but finishing off the carbon fibre engine dressings. Just need to give it a clean up. Has been a bit neglected lately. Need to wait for the cam covers to yellow a bit to match the coilpack and cam gear covers though
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Looks good! My only thought was perhaps opening the slot for the plug right up to aid in cooling a little. Not that its going to help a great deal, but hopefully would improve it a little
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Yes. There are different restrictors/blanks depending on what the engine is. There is a guide (table) somewhere that tells you whats what
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Can you tell me more about the issue?
I have a HEL oil cooler kit. But the cooler itself is a Mocal. The sandwich plate is HEL (AFAIK) And thermostatic
Don’t seem to have any issues with oil but notice sometimes my lifters are a bit tickey for a few minutes -
While its a good idea, not all oil pumps work this way. RB oil pumps are pretty good at this. I usually pull the CAS plug off mine and crank it a bit after changing oil. But even without doing this (and even when I started my rebuilt engine for the first time), Oil pressure builds up pretty quickly
As I said though, Priming it before starting will ALWAYS be better than starting it without priming.
I've heard of old Land Rovers (I think?) needing to be primed after a service or they won't pickup oil.
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You'll be able to Jump over Supra's with that wing
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Hi Kustom,
Interested in some radiator top brackets for R33. Also curious what R33 parts you have/are making as well. There is a lot of random engine bay parts that could use a dress up and most places that do these are over in the U.K etc, so having a local manufacturer would be a great thing!
Send me a PM if you want
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Just because you put a new oil pump in, doesnt mean its working. I thought r33 and 32 oil pressure sensors were the same so assumed r34 would be the same as well. Did you get any sort of wiring diagram with the wiring kit?
Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Posted
Yes, just mark the CAS to the cam gear cover to get it roughly correct. I would still double check and adjust the base timing if needed, but marking it gets pretty close
The CAS doesn't really need the engine at TDC to be installed if that was you were talking about? If you are talking about your timing belt, Wind the engine over (use a socket and bar/ratchet) till the marks on the cam gears line up with the marks on the backing plate. Double check the crank gear when you pull the ballancer lines up with the mark on the oil pump.