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Hi there, Well, it was bound to happen, the fence decided to attack the front bumber of my S2 Stagea. I wasn't driving, it was the missus. I'm looking for a bit of touch up paint in the form of a pen or small pot, whatever is best to cover up a couple of 3cm x 2cm scrapes on the corner of the bumper. Will i be able to find something in repco or autobarn? It's sonic silver right?

Extra lag has been known to help with fuel consumption around town, so don't let that put you off.

I'd never used a sequential stick before the DSG and i kept pulling down a gear when i wanted to shift up. It "felt" more natural to pull down when accelerating due to the forces (maybe?). Even currently in the Stagea sequential auto, i still do it sometimes.

I've driven a DSG VW golf and i must say... it's very nice. The ability to whack it into D in traffic jams is sweet. If you do put it into DSG sequential mode, you can choose not to change the gears with flicking the knob if you don't want to. You can whack it into the middle of + & - and it'll still change gears automatically, but really hold it to redline before hard changing. Very versatile. Oh yeah, and no way can you change manually any quicker, it's official that the DSG 0-100 times are quicker then manual boxes.

At the end of the day, 15-16L/100kms is just something i'll live with for the joy of owning these wagons. Was just hoping for better economy when i baby it around town.

16.5L/100km at last fill, BP Ultimate. Before that i got 13.5L/100km after dumping in a whole bottle of Nulon Injector Cleaner.

Same here, after doing the solenoid mod, i whacked one of this babies on and WHOA... very nice indeed. Definitely builds boost a lot quicker, and holds it very nicely at 10psi. One thing i had to do after a few of adjustments and realised that my boost wasn't going anywhere, sometimes the ball bearing gets stuck and you need to undo the whole thing and drop it back in. Just don't lose it! edit: Very easy to "hide" under the sock box too.

Can't remember what the % allowable difference was, but wear and tear wouldn't really cause it as it would be within the tolerance. When i bought the car, the dealer whacked on the 17" RS4S rims on it which had different profiles. Once i replaced the rears to match the rolling dimension of the front (235's vs 215's) and topped up the fluids, the shuddering stopped.

I cannot believe this car hasn't been snapped up, great looking/sounding/performing car here for a very reasonable price. Someone buy it already!

Pretty sure it's ATF (Auto Transmission Fluid). But if you do a search you'll find what's best. Mine did the same but it was because the rolling dimension of my front and rear tyres weren't the same. Once I fixed that and topped up the Attessa fluid all was good.

Yeah but Pixel's is an auto too and he's getting pretty much factory figures. I live in Adelaide too but getting more towards 15-16L/100kms with no mods bar the same mbc @ 9-10psi. As mentioned before, if anything, the car gets driven by the minister of finance quite sedately.

Fair comment, but if your car is suppose to run 11-12L/100kms and you're burning away $1000ish every year, wouldn't you be the slightest curious why it's doing that? Think of the mods you could do if you had the $$ saved!

You go for dinner in china town with your 7 iron? :laughing-smiley-014:

Well... not looking at 6-7L/100kms or anything. But would be much happier with 12-13L/100kms taking into account the age of the car etc. Not 15-16L/100kms. 2-3L extra every 100kms, do the maths, it adds up $$wise. I'll take that SAFC off your hands then Thing is, fair enough if you have a lead foot it hits you, but when you baby it around 90% of the time and still get 15-16L/100kms that's something else.

Replace the resonator with a muffler?

It's not that it doesn't fold, i can hear the motoor humming and usually if i give it a nudge it'll fold alright. When you said you pulled it apart, did you remove the motor etc? I only got as far as seeing the motor in the housing, but couldn't work out how to remove the motor even with the 2 remaining screws remove.

A stop? What does it look like?

Not really that big a problem but everytime i shut the door a little hard the drivers side wing mirror housing moves in a little. And i have to adjust it back out. The auto folding function clicks non stop on the drivers side when i have it switched open, and clicks non stop on the passenger side when i have the switch to close. I've removed the mirrors (door panels, 3 nuts etc.) and squirted WD40 in there but it's still doing it. The clicking probably means the gears in the motor are shagged? Can i remove the motor and replace them or do i have to find 2 new (silver) side/wing mirrors?

Thanks!

This is behind the tyres right? Pic would be great, might have a look at mine tomorrow too!

Awesome, thanks for that. Looks like 15L/100km which equates to 6.7km/L is definitely not right then. In complete stock form I'd love to know why.

I really don't think a lead foot is all there is to it, i mean, the missus drives the car 90% of the time and i know for a fact (as stated before) that she'll hardly ever hit boost. Sure allowing for wear and tear of the engine it'd never be the factory claimed figures, but 4-5L/100kms off is a pretty big step. There must be something to it... and the figures stated are stock too! Only chance of me hitting < 11L/100kms is pure highway driving.

That's something that would be good to find out. Anyone here know the Stagea factory mileage?

Well.. i now know the car runs exactly 419.5kms on a full tank of Boost98... the missus couldn't start it this evening as it had run out of petrol. It equates to 15-16L/100kms which in my books is still disgracefull seeing she uses the car 90% of the time and it'd be lucky to see more then 2psi. That was with a bottle of Nulon Injector cleaner in it too.

S2 here as well and am only getting 400kms before the light goes up which is around 60L (15L/100km). I would be far happier with 450kms (13.5L/100km) before light if possible. Running hi flow panel filter with TT mbc @ 10psi as the only mods. That's with Boost98 too. I replaced the O2 sensor with the NGK/NTK one and when the car was in the workshop the other day they tested the O2 levels (or was it CO2?) to check air fuel mixture by sticking a rod into the exhaust connected to a handheld electrical meter thingy while driving around and all the readings were fine. Does that mean the O2 sensor is alright? Been quoted $500 and for a custom 3" mild steel catback exhaust, very tempting if it guarantees drop of 1-2L/100kms.