Dj laBBy

This is what happened to mine

On some of the old style Detroit 2 stroke Diesel engines, the were Di charged(or whatever) basically being 2 stroke, they needed a blower(sc) to force out the exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber when the piston was at BDC. The roots type blowers were there basically there till the turbos kicked in. They didn't force air through the SC, but like a flap valve, like what has already been said. Works well. The flap doesn't have to be perfect. I like the idea about the square pipe, it would make it easier. It could be done with say 3 1/2" pipe (3" normal ic pipe) so the flap would be around 3" and spring or weight (similar to what a truck has on its stack) loaded. As soon as the turbo spools up, the flap would open and bob's your uncle. It comes off boost, flap shuts and bam, the sc takes over. What comes to mind about the weight loaded flap is these brass check valves i use for saltwater systems. I know its not really the same though but its an idea...

Shit thats interesting. Not something i would've thought of, but hey, vibrations and harmonics can do a lot of real funny things. I replaced all the mounts and got a new rad, but this time i actually ground a curve in the leading tip of the blades, so basically if the engine does move forward, its not going to be the tip that digs into the rad. So far so good. The real funny thing is that in sydney today it was around the 30's somwhere and once i got it all sorted i took a trip along the beaches to test it all out. There was alot of stop start driving and instead of the temp going up to 80' as it used to (with a new rad) it stayed between 72-76. So was pretty happy with that. Not sure if the mod on the fan helped at all.

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but how did you actually go with the prognosis?? I had the same thing happen to me. I had no probs with the old rad i had, though a little overheating issue, so bought a brand new stock rad, then after a week or so, same thing happened, no other evidence of fan hitting the rad, so thought it was a faulty rad, got it replaced, put it in the car, took off one day, then noticed i had a small leak after work. I was able to limp it home, found the next day it didn't leak, ok no probs(prob just some gunk blocking it) drove it to work, came home and well this time you could see that the fan actually hit, a big strip of rad fins were bent. I had a small leak too, to got some epoxy stuff, and moulded it in place, no probs. Got to work ok, though just took it easy. On the way home i gave it some stick and got hard on the brakes, well going through one of the tunnels fairly slowly i saw the temp creep up, took the first exit and eventually pulled off, low and behold, rad was smashed. coolant and steam everywhere. I checked the mounts, the torque side is fine, but compression is a little compressed, but not completely broken. My only guess is that the engine may've moved forward and combined with the engine speed or fan speed, the blades must've flexed forward and hit the rad. So we'll see tomorrow after i replace the engine mounts with genuine nissan mounts and a new rad if it works. I seriously hope so.

yah id buy it if someone want to buy my rb25 power fc(oh it has a tune for Q45 on rb30det, on car and running) Free bump anyways.

Sorry dude, too late, damn you gotta be quick. Umm try slidewize, i got mine from japan, but through Spoolup, but he aint importing anymore

Manifold sold, but BOV still here

Hey guys, Have a couple of things, HKS cast manifold for RB25.SOLDThese things are getting rare and as they are one of the best manifolds on the market, now is your chance to get one. It has recently been sandblasted and also had the head face machined as when i bought it, i had no idea, but #1 & #6 cyl would leak, no matter how tight i got those bolts. So seeing as i didn't want anyone to go through the same thing as me, i thought i'd get it done. It has also been silica/ceramic coated for durability and heat retention. Reason for selling, changed to high mount manifold. Asking for $800.Sold It is in good condition... I also have a blitz Bov. I have got a plumb back piece on there at the mo, but i think i still have the trumpet if you want it. It also has the base flange to be welded to ally pipe(currently on 2" pipe)Also have the original blitz pipe, think its for a gtr crossover pipe or something like that. pics if needed SOLD Reason for selling, not bothering with BOV for next setup. Please pm me or 0412957329 Cheers Robb

Hey guys thanks for all the info. I ended up chatting to wollongong autos and looking at building the VL jatco 4speed. Its not as strong as the 3 speed, but will do the job. Ended up opting out of the Re401 box. Just coz its not as proven with some places and others like bms that build them are looking at over 4k for a box. Thats just a little too much for me atm. Plus wollongong autos just down the road, so he can fix me up if need be, not keep sending boxes interstate.

Mate i don't seriously think that would be the main cause. I have only a B&M cooler(not a very big one) in my trimatic and with even a 3500 stall converter and driving to work with only second and third gears (first is stuffed) which places massive strains on the converter and oil, my temp only reaches 90degC. Though i have a auto temp gauge so i know. I did away with the oil running through the radiator, though prob not so good down here in syd during winter. They don't have cable kick down's anymore, like someone else said. He's prob from the ol' school holden era. The kick down is controlled via the TPS. There is 2 parts to the TPS, one for the engine, a rheostat(variable resistor), and idle and fullthrottle switches for the auto. Mate it sounds like one or some of the solenoids are stuffed internal in the box. Worst part about these boxes.... They cost a fair bit to fix. You probably have torched the box in the past and by the sounds of it done some pretty serious damage internal with all the black oil and sludge type stuff. It can come from many places inc the converter as there are plain type bearings in there and the lockup pads. Mate just get another box, they are pretty cheap. Or get a fully built box.

Hey am in the process of getting a built jatco box, the 4nz one from a VLT, from Wollongong auto's I came to this conclusion after doing soooooooo much research, from power handling to drivability to how easily it can be removed and replaced in the car and to top it all off, how much i don't have to change. A few companys are doing the RE401 box from the rb25, s3 r31 and even subaru(yes they have almost identical, though its got a transfer case) BMS autos in brookvale, wollongong auto's, and MV auto's. To do this box up to cope with 1000hp, with everything topnotch, 4k plus converter(little too pricey for me) but tony rigoli's subaru doing 8's i think it can handle the power. There is even a skyline in the states with this box doing 8.2 or something like that. Ok i had the option of going a Powerglide, as i had the conversion already, same as trimatic, though i didn't want to go 2 speed, great on the strip, but not as good on the street. Next was Jatco box from the early skyline and VLT's. They have made these things tough, bloody tough. Have heard of rotor guys putting them behind 700hp rotors and pulling 8's in them. Have heard that they can handle 500rwkw. Those are big numbers, they can have a tendency to twist, but Keas and a few others are using big, thick sumps, which acts as a strength member. Ok the last jatco i was talking about was the 3 spd. I have gone for the 4spd option which can only handle 350rwkw. Because there's a couple of parts internal, i think its the overdrive, that just can't take the abuse, even with billet servo's and the like. Plus the early skylines came out with them so for me it is a straight swap. Oh the 4spd, someone in melb has just pulled off a 10.2 quater in a VL. So that should give you some indication they are still good. Regards to loss of power?? Its really hard to equate. Yes you lose power, but you gain torque, serious amounts. The powerglide takes less power due simply to less moving parts, then trimatic, then C4 and everything else. TCE make the best converters, hands down, but i can't justify spending 1400 on a converter when Dominator, who are still pretty god damn good, are only costing me around 600 for a converter to go behind a 800-1000hp motor. So for the 4spd jatco plus converter its all about 3800. That includes transbrake, the lot!! For a C4, which are a little bulky(for me) with transbrake, plus TCE converter plus tailshaft mod, plus speed pickup/cable plus mods to the standard shifter(if you want to run a standard) or B&M shifter. It all adds up. For that price i'd go the standard RE401 box with billet everything and have an overdrive.

kewl, thanks guys. Might give BMS a call seeing they in NSW

So who builds these boxes?? Yah i was talking about the Re4 box. I have heard that the VG30dett boxes were pretty tough, might look into that. How would they put in a t400 input shaft?? i guess the converter would have to be completely custom coz of that. Kewl thanks for t he info.

Well obviously you can bolt it straight up, but you will need to use the auto computer which am sure it plugs into the rb25 computer, so either getting it to talk to rb20 comp or if it can be a standalone, dunno. Then being triptronic, the 34 shifter will be needed, so you will have hassels getting the shifter in the centre console, then hopefully it has the same mounts. Then maybe the gearbox length may be different, if that is the case, the tailshaft may need to be modded. I really don't know, but just off the top of my head, they might be the issues.... Have fun

Hey guys, i'm gonna give first hand experience here on trimatics. I have a R31 with rb30det putting about 270rwkw. I'm currently on my second trimatic and at this point in time might be third soon. I read this thread as i was looking for something better that can handle the power. Not that saying 270awkw is heaps, but i don't feel the trimatic is up to the task. The first box i only made 190rwkw before i smashed the planetars/gearset. Dunno how just did, so seeing how i had the setup i got a hugo's box. Yep felt the same as the first one, no probs, but only 2000k's old and i have lost first gear, so its in the shop again getting rebuilt. Its giving me the shits as the bellhousing is so big that it is extremely difficult to remove. the trans tunnels in the skylines aren't big enough to start with and even though i have "massaged" the firewall still having issues.. Hugo only rates the trimatic at only 450hp, well taken into account the power losses through the drive train it is estimated that i have around 450-500hp at the crank. so i can't really think of any more power upgrades that i would like to do atm. I had a chat to Mike at MV autos, he sugested the standard 4speed auto same as in the r33gtst(i think) and rebuild that up. he said he can build them to take up to 1000hp. The internal gearset is stronger than the trimatic and even jatco. So that might be the next plan of attack as i'm looking to top 350rwkw in the future and crack 10's

Hey gary, i posted in the spring thread about the spring rates on my R31 for the kings but really mainly after the rears, thats all kewl and am eagerly awaiting the news, but my next Q is i have now read the group buy section and was wondering what you can do for the rear of my skyline. Now i know i can fit S13 shocks in, so that might help, but is there a replacement for the 31 and is it worth me actually changing over to bilstiens?? I drive the car to and from work every day(costs me a fortune) and also drag race it. I'm looking to lower the spring rate in the rear to give a better ride comfort and squat in the rear but still give that sporty feel. Is it worth goign to east coast suspensions(round the corner) or can you help me out. The chassis feels a little underdeveloped(compared to the rest of the car) and would like to see what i can do with it. Cheers Robb P.s. tried Pming you and your box is full. thanks

Hey SK. Could you check these out for me. They are kings on a 31. front 173mm OD 180mm OD 15mm wire 6 coils Rear 113 mm OD 113mm OD 12mm wire 9 coils The standard rear are same dia, but about 10.5mm or so wire and 11coils. The height are good for the kings, but too hard in the rear and i've only basic monroe gas. Fronts are GAB 4way adjustable as the front were a little soft, so went with a better dampening rate. Reason i think they are too hard is they don't squat enough. (drag/daily street) Thanks mate

Ah ok, might look into something like the new safc. Saying that it might be a good idea to do the 26 thing, don't have VCT anyway RB30det and prob won't cost much to change over, only thing is getting it tuned again. Thaks for that paul, wealth of knowledge, might have to take you up on that 26 offer. Cheers Robb

Ah makes sense then. Industrial oil cooler core. okey. Yah a lot of fun welding small stuff on ehy?? My first intercooler was a water/air that i made using 10mm ally tube and welded end caps, then the body then the end tanks. 72 tubes, so 144 welds just for the core. Wow, took 2 weeks. It didn't have any internal diffusers, so heat tranfer would've been crap, ended up chucking it. But mate like the idea.

Hey guys, i am after the little bit of wire from the 2 little green knock sensors to the main loom. Has a square plug on the end. Cheers Robb PS, been searcing for ages and im desperate need.

Paul or anyone, can you help me?? I'm running out of flow on the Q45afm (5v maxed)at 18psi. Is it possible to actually wire in 2 AFM to the Power FC say in parallel or would i need to get a rb26 power fc instead?? Oh btw, have rb25 fc running RB30det. Cheers Robb

Mate sounds like your on the right path. Glad you got some gloves, the sunburn is worse than anything the sun can give out and much quicker to get burnt. Yah the pig skin the way to go, good feel with the torch and that. I never rest my torch on the job, i mean shroud. The tungsten should be about 7mm or so, depending on electrode size, but you will work it out as you do it. Make sure the gas is between 10-15lt/min, no more as it can blow/react with the arc, less and you will get O2 contamination, make sure you are well protected(obviously). Remember DC tig(ms ss) you normally drop a electrode size, usually 1.6mm, and 2.4 for ally. Hope that helps. Sounds like you have got a nice machine. I wish i could afford a welder at home. I have a basic stick machine and oxy kit and that has gotten me out of trouble many a time, even made my 3.5" ex at home, tacked with stick, welded with oxy, works a treat, but have the luxury to use all the machines at work. gotta love that. Mate every one is different with tig, all have their prefered ways, but there's some ideas that work for me.

Hey mate, good job. Like the ideas, though was just wondering, those"oil cooler cores" aren't they intercooler cores?? Would've thought the flow charecteristics of different liquids to be different(air being liquid). dunno not in the industry, just my opinion Also thought the cores are normally ally braze welded(not too sure what filler or that) not fusion welded. Reason i say is that in all of the ally intercoolers and radiators, none are welded except the end tanks on to the tube tops. Cheers Robb

Hey, I use acetone (it dries really fast) to clean the ally. Don't really need to though unless its critical work, just make sure you have a nice clean tip. Thats one of the biggest things for getting crap in the weld. Most of the time the AC frequency electically cleans the metal. As oxide(yes found on all ally, even clean stuff) melts at around 2000'c or there abouts, whereas the parent metal melts at a lot lower temp, the change in frequency actually in one of a better words removes the oxide. As long as you aren't using metal straight from outside thats been there for ages, your right. Just get it hot, have clean, dry filler rods and electrodes and you should be right. If your having troubles trying to hold the hand piece, wrap the lead around your arm, so that your arm is supporting the weight, either that or your hand is holding it, which is stronger?? Sure you can sling it over your shoulder, but you get better control and can run the weld along better if its over your arm. Try and also rest your torch end on the job. Yah, put a thick weld glove underneath so the heat doesn't penertrate, then just slide your hand along the job. Helps keep your hand stable and that gives you a better more uniform weld. Don't rush ally. The more heat the better until it gets to the point where it falls away, but hopefully by this stage you should've worked that out by now. Remember if it looks like mercury, thats molten. This is where foot controls really come into it, as you use heaps of heat to get it up to temp, then bring it back and vary as needed. Really this is where experience comes into play. Just don't get frustrated, be calm and relaxed. Hmmm i should do some private lessons on how to weld. hehe Craved, do you have a TIG at home or work?? I don't really know what the go is with tafe welding courses, i can find out in a couple of weeks when i see one of the board teachers. I would've thought there were night courses. Oh well. Hopefully i can find out some info. Robb

Yah i can imagine, they are screaming for teachers. My old instructor on base is working for them and his offsider too. One at mount druitt, not sure the other one. I think the hardest thing for me to do it is that i have a new kid at home, so won't see him as much, but hey, the extra bucks come in handy.