Cubes

Hi ppls, In a bid to prevent rip offs on SAU some thing another user said made me think... Why not prevent all users from selling on SAU UNLESS they provide to the section mod or admin a scanned good quality copy of their License. The mod/admin then records the user details and if need be for legal reasons discards the picture. I'm the mod of the SA section which looks after its self. I'm more than willing to devote a little of my time authorizing users and recording their details. I might even go to the extent of using voip to call and verify the user details in certian cases, voip I am able to call all over aus for the cost of a local call. Sure its not fool proof but does give the police a much better chance of tracking the offender down. So let me know what you all think.... Yes it will be a bit of work.... But I think worth it.

Well god damn that was lucky... I was this close (holds up fingers) to grabbing the calipers. Only reason I didn't... The user had no real history on SAU.

Ignitor still available?

Any one remember the days of Anzac when they had the car park located at the very end of it. Car park would be packed full of hoon heads, as ppls would leave burnouts were thrown and scream off through the round about. Eventually a group of police would walk and drive over shutting down the car park and defecting those within. I have some fond memorys as a teen.... Anzac drag strip has been around since my old man was a teen.

There's a contact here in SAU, he does a remote tune, sends a few chips over, you have them fitted and each one of them ran on the dyno too see which works best. Allthough not 100% spot on its safe and from the experience of others works well. Dr Drift is another one who tunes. Unsure where he is located. Here in Adelaide to map the std ecu was too expensive, A few hundred more and I had myself a PFC that has since been tuned 3 times. So I am now ahead.

I had a few small dealings with the CD 'dude' as its put when I had my motor built up, did us an awesome price. Very straight down the line bloke who loves his motorsport and cars. I think he would be good for AIR.

Maybe it was the lines gearing.. they do tend to rev a little in the lower gears making a bystander think they are going quicker than they really are.

I don't quite understand the com port connected to comment. If you are having issues with the boost controller have you tried disabling it from the pfc h/c menu and seen how it affects idle etc. Mine lumps over and runs like a pig with it enabled without a pfc connector. Datalogit?

Depends on the dyno I guess. I have 2 examples.. Mine on the stock rb20det turbo that made 176rwkw at 9psi (wouldn't hold any more boost = turbo out of airflow). It was hitting 92% duty at peak power, stock afm was seeing 4.98v, rev past peak power and it would require 100% duty to hold 12:1 afr's. Another R32 running a GT35r .82 on 8psi made 183rwkw That hits 100% duty and max's out the stock afm (5.115v). Both of us are running aftermarket fuel pumps. Myself, I run a bosch item; the other dude, no idea but its not stock. Regarding the RB25de... As you are probably aware they look the same as the rb20det. The only issue with the RB25de bottom end is the high comp the pistons give you. 2 options on the cheap... Drop a set of s/h rb25det pistons in it or a really thick headgasket. I don't think a thick headgasket will get you low enough though. A good tuner will be able to work with a high comp rb25de. Keep the boost sensible and there's no reason it won't make good power. Remember peak power is nothing, average power is everything.

Andrew, Thats some serious old enemy.

It is when you consider where its meant to sit... You do realise if you have an accident your insurance company will take one look at it and not cover you.. Especially with such a modification as suspension. Its clearly not designed for the application. I'm all for cost effective modifications but this one... This is something you definitely don't want to be doing here in AUS. I suppose its good for something... a sump guard :S Aftermarket 'adjustable' sway bar is $190.

RBSileighty, There's an issue somewhere as if running stock injectors etc you shouldn't have to raise the injector correction. I assume it still plays idling up once warm aswell? As this has nothing to do with what water temp or cranking inj. correction values you run... and as I said would indicate there's issues some where. Running stock injectors? Fuel pressure set correctly?

lol... I came across a snip from a bathurst vid I chopped 2years or so ago. Awesome little clip this... Pure Power down the straight. http://videos.streetfire.net/search/Skylin...63462250d20.htm

Awesome.. Haven't seen that one before. I'd love to see a race or two (inc. incar) of those race R32's fully kitted out as they showed in the vid.. unsure what class they are.

I've had a couple of pressure plates go in the past when I was young and much bodgier than I am now. Never on the skyline though. The problem I had came down to either 1. reusing a pressure plate or 2. a certian model car appeared to have a weakness in their factory items when shifted hard. I started using new pressure plates and threw heavy duty item in there. A pressure plate that has failed will look flat and typically have its fingers at different heights, from the ones that I did anyway. HOWEVER, it has been known for the skyline box's to squash the pivot ball. So that may be worth looking at before jumping the gun.

I see exactly where your coming from, there has been a small influx of spark plug related threads over the last few weeks. I believe every thread I've posted in and suggested what heat range or gap to use I have taken note of what mods the member has before making a suggestion. I even believe in one thread I suggested approximate power levels where to step up to the next heat range based on where cars here in Adelaide have had to step up and general spark plug reading. but yes.. i edited my post above.. My coil packs are now finally on their way out.

I'd have to agree GTST and rotary 20b. I developed a slight flatish feel on boost with a little miss when running the std plugs 1.1mm gap as soon as I threw an exhaust on ~150,000km's ago. The exhaust rose boost to 12psi that tapered off to 11psi by peak. The bloke who worked on my car back then said... "Drop a set of copper ngk's in with a 0.75-0.8mm gap and it will fix your problem* He handed me a set of BCPR6E plugs. (BCPR6EY I think they were called back then) They worked perfectly and it didn't loose any power. This was ~4.5yrs ago and almost 150,000km's. I've only recently dropped in a set of BKR7E plugs in as upon inspection the 6's were cooking a little. Yes I was a little concerned with the height of the plug (BKR7E's being a tad smaller) but upon inspection there's plenty of head room. Now do the 7's foul... They haven't yet, I drive the car slow... 2000-2500rpm changes everywhere with the 'occasional' squirt. I get around 470km's a tank driving in this manner, hit the open road for 30mins to see the oldies down south and that tank will see 500km's. Drive it hard through the hills and have a tank of up on boost everyt time I accelerate and I'll see ~400-430km's. 3lit3 32, I wouldn't be too concerned with the theory... Its one of those things; raise boost from factory on a rb20/25det and you need to drop the gap and possibly run a cooler plug depending on power being made. As it turns out my std coils have decided to start popping a little (~150,000km's travelled by me with 60,000 something km's on the clock when I bought it), splitfires will be on their way soon. I'm curious as to if I'll be able to run a larger gap but from the experience of others running splitfires... I doubt it...

You've got a decent newish fuel pump in there? Another vote for an aftermarket ecu or at least a remap with a cheapish nismo fpr. Forget the cams idea. Get the parts from http://www.nengun.com/ or http://www.perfectrun.com.au/

I can help u out in the turbo department.

You tube have a few decent vids of the SRT8 Jeep. Interesting... They appear to be running High 13's. :S Unsure if they are stock, sounds stock. Apparently the ecu also limits throttle until a few kays have been pushed up on it.. Not sure how true that is.

Ferni... hrmmm license details... I vote for people who wish to sell in the for sale sections of SAU should provide a good quality scanned/photo of the license and contact details (phone etc). We would record the persons details and if required for some unknown legal issue discard the licence scan/photo. Possibly even check up with a quick phone call (voip so local cost interstate calls). I'm currently the SA mod which basically looks after its self these days so I have no issues increasing work load. I honestly don't buy of ppls I haven't seen around SAU for a long time; which is a bummer as there's quite a few good little items that pop up from time to time that I simply don't purchase due to my suspicious nature.

lol... If its anything like mine every time I work on it I end up with spare bolts.. So that should even things out. lol.. Not that bad.. use to be when I was younger.

Oosh, be sure to secure this one so the same doesn't happen to it.

lol... Its because the cars are so old now and parts are most likely not made for them anymore. Quite a few parts have been pulled back on the VN commodore (same year) and unable to be purchased new. VL.. no hope in hell from holden for some parts. At least we can still get these parts if need be.

Correction? I'm assuming you are talking about the water temp correction table... It could be a few thigns.. I'm running a 9:1 comp ratio so I 'may' be able lean her off a little before combustion issues arise when the car is cold; it could be the headwork and combustion chamber design or possibly even how well the injectors atomize the fuel. I've spent quite a bit of time slowly leaning mine off until i began to feel drivability issues. As the engine comes up to temp so damn quickly (2km's or a 2-3mins from a cold start) its a very slow process getting the +10, +30 and +50 spot on, I've still got a little work to do on the +50 as it feels as if it could be leaned off a tad more. Post up your water temp enrichment table.. What cranking inj. values have you settled on? The PFC shouldn't be loosing any information from the wate temp correction and inj cranking ms tables. If it is there is an issue, which I believe is also covered in the pfc faq. IF however you are playing with the other inj. and timing correction then I wouldn't be fiddling with that as there is no need.