Cubes

Mines going to be run in to the ground.... Eventually will pick up another car and may throw a roll cage in to the 32, throw on a set of semi's, strip the interior and off I go..

Get one holding that boost pressureis the problem... Once you do then there's the issue of high backpressure dropping ve resulting in crap power anyway. Running in to choke (which they clearly do) heats air. Its not the boost anyway... As you know its the airflow at that boost level, 14psi on an rb20 is like 11psi on an rb25det. Once the afm hits 5.115v it will no longer drop to a greater load point. It stays on that load point and simply travels x along the rpm. You then tune those load points to achieve the afr and ign your after. Its not optimal as anything less than that boost level/airflow its going to run rich and less then optimal ign. timing. Which isn't really too much of a problem for a turbo car as its difficult to hold partial boost levels at an rpm where the afm is likely to max out ~5000rpm. If you try to push say 300rwkw through the stock afm then its obviously going to crap its self as afr's are going to be mega rich as the afm initially max's out, it then has to get through the rich and less than optimal ign. timing until it reaches the airflow the afr and ign. are suited for.

I've seen an r33 running 12psi go from 170 something rwkw to a flat 200rwkw just by fitting up the fmic. You don't pick up that much power from simply cooler air.

mad082, under normal street driving conditions where you only give it a quick squirt through first or second the stock ic holds up .ok. its not until the stock ic becomes heat soaked that the air will be hotter. The more boost one runs, the quicker the std ic will heatsoak.

I'd say because it lags slightly more and takes longer to pressurise the void... Then when it does...

If not sounds like he knows who did....

Both dyno sheets posted that have made 220rwkw odd are not holding that 14psi or whatever to peak power... So... Peak power of 219rwkw was made on roughly 12.6psi and the other dude that made 220rwkw... That was on a shade over 10psi. So yes.. hrmmmmm, either way its a power figure... Who cares, A real 220rwkw I'd expect a high 12 sec pass with a good driver. 200rwkw.. A low 13. Once again with a decent driver who can drive.

So you're keeping the scooter then? Having no car and all to drive around in? hehe

Absolutely nothing.

On the cometics its apparently bad to use any spray.. Its what the person who assembled my motor told me. The cometic I ran had a rubber type covering over the top and bottom layer...

Chris Milton Engineering did my head work and rebuild. They also did the balancing of my motor. A complete rebuild by them was simply too much. Way out of my budget.

RBsileighty, With regards to the cranking issue its a known issue with the ap engineering pfc, the values are incorrect. Mine would start no problems when cold but would sit there and crank over and over when warm. The values I use are: +80 - 9ms +50 - 12ms +30 - 21ms +10 - 35ms Without the +10 at 35ms it would stumble really bad after a cold crank and take a little longer than I would like for it to fire. For the water temp enrichment I run. (Leaner than std values) +80 1.000 1.000 +50 1.031 1.078 +30 1.063 1.219 +10 1.203 1.438 With those values mine starts and drives perfectly. I've had to lean off +10 as if any richer it would some times cause a slight stumble after start. My idle is 100% perfect infact better than the stock ecu. There's a couple of things you must be sure are correct for you to obtain a nice idle. 1. AAC valve is squeeky clean and solanoid operating correctly 2. IAC valve is working correctly 3. Idle afr's are correct and o2 sensor working well 4. AAC valve is adjusted correctly to suit the pfc's idle value 5. TPS is adjusted correctly 6. No atmo bov (causes stalling) 7. Idle learn procedure is done when the car is warm Apart from that it does take a week or so until it settles down 100%.

They are returning fairly well since I bought mine 4.5yrs back for 18k. What is a clean example worth these days... 10 maybe 12k? 6k loss in 4.5years is fairly damn good I'd say. A 1992 Commodore.... Mate of mine just sold a clean one for $1200. I couldn't believe my eyes.

Yer no point changing the filter... Its just that I would tend to steer clear of the ryco's after I cut one open. What I mean by tunneling is the filter media in sections blows open while the other pleats of the media stay close together. The oil then only flows through these blown open sections of the media. I got the word tunneling from doing a little search after I cut the filter open as I was a little concerned how the media looked. This isn't the link I origionally found but it fits the bill... Has pics also. http://www.aus-cartalk.com/auspoc/techstuff.htm

They are getting a little old now so the majority of them will need repairs in the way of general wear and tear. I.e bushes, a/c, clutch master/slave cylinder, alternator, cooling system hoses etc.. I've had mine for 4.5years and travelled around 146,000km's. The only thing I've had to repair/replace is the headlight switch, radiators top tank, a/c leaky hose, clutch master/slave cylinder and radiator fan clutch. Nothing else has 'worn out' so to speak. The usual 100,000km service stuff was done being water pump, cam belt, rad hoses, I don't consider that repairs etc.. Thats general basic maintenance. I've done 1 gearbox due to dropping a 3ltr in to it and the diff now open wheels so needs attention. I'm in the process of throwing bushes throughout as it needs them desperately. So lots of money to be spent on it as its old.

Carl, I believe it comes down to the competency of who's fitting the headgasket, I had my block decked as it was required to achieve the comp ratio I was after, the head was checked for straightness and it was apparently perfect so it was left as is. I've had my cometic headgasket on for close to 2yrs and 45,000km's without a problem. Bl4ck32 has had his on for the same duration but slightly less kays and a heap of other blokes here in AUS run cometics without issues. Saying that the bloke who machined and assembled out motors used cometic gaskets on everything, so clearly he knows the gasket. I too did a little search prior to approving the use of cometic headgasket and found lots of ppls had leaks etc.. He told me not to worry he knows what he is doing and never has had a problem using a cometic gasket. Its most likely similiar as to having your engine builder recommend using a forged piston that he is familiar with then insisting he use forged piston on a brand he has no experience with... I do remember one case where one person did this and ended having a motor fail within a few hundred km's as the builder wasn't aware of a little pin securing quirk the pistons had. I've attached a few pics of the surface finish.

There is definitely a few second delay as it reads and writes. Whats also interesting is just reading the fuel or ign. map or even update takes just as long as a read all.

Yep my AP R32 PFC only has 3pins. So yes the solanoid is ground via the ecu somewhere, assuming pin 25 due to the similarities of the R32 pfc and early rb25/pfc pro pfc's. Its also worth nothing paul that Andre (Fasthatch) of the new pfc datalogit type software said the AP PFC uses a really old data transfer method, or something along those lines at least. Which is why I still haven't seen the beta working version as he is having to tweak it to get it working correctly. + he busy and writing software takes a loooong time.

Cheerz big earz.

Interesting regarding the pfc boost kit.. I've attached an r32 r33 pinout comparison. It does appear to be pin 25. Be sure to update and let us know how you go. As with any self learning ebc be sure to load it up from a low rpm in a high gear to redline, best done on a dyno. This prevents spiking, often the problem many have with the avcr. They are sent through the boost learn process incorrectly. The PFC EBC is nothing more than an avcr with less features.. and does the job perfectly fine for half the price.

Interesting regarding the pfc boost kit.. I've attached an r32 r33 pinout comparison. Pin 25 is the r33's ecu solanoid control. Be sure to let us know how you go. Without myself looking does the R32 loom have a wire running to pin25? It may as the R32 GTST and GTR looms are very similiar, so the GTST loom may simply have the solanoid provision there.

Whats it worth.. Last I checked I think it worked out some where around $120 for an oil change with 1ltr to spare. So next change will be slightly cheaper. I'll go the 10w40. oh the thought of a ester cleaned motor so clean you can eat off it.

I will be next service. I'll drop the filter at 5k and top up as mine takes roughly 4.5litres. Not sure if dropping the filter at 5k is worth while or not but makes sense to me.

No idea...

No direct experience but there's also..... http://www.hotengines.com.au/engine_services.html They were a tad too expensive when I had mine done, so I didn't get it done there.