Cubes

Its a pitty superpi doesn't utilize dual core..

Very nice.. Getting down there...

I grew up down that way. M/vale, hackham, christies downs are all crap with regards to the people that live there, crime rates, little crews etc. Steer clear if possible head a touch more south and your out of the housing trust. I'm with mr_rbman. The southern expressway throws another 15-17minutes on your journey to town so its no real biggy, but I am used to living down that way and having to travel so it doesn't bother me. In fact I actually miss the relaxing drive with music pumping to and from since I've moved from down south.

Good work.... Very keen to see the results...

Just send it again to be sure..

lmao..... hehe Almost as embarrasing as the sound of an Auto with an exhaust. Mind you I would love to have tight auto behind mine. rb30... I noticed a very slight increase in fuel usage at first (dropped to low-mid 400's) but it soon returned back to normal once tuned and my right foot learnt I didn't have to hold gears to 3000rpm+ in order to get some where. Normal being high 400's around local. I haven't really driven it long distance so I don't know. For any one interested. If you'd like to see my fandangled pfc maps that are leaned out to all buggery (both maps and cold start) and run a heap of ign. drop me a pm.

How steep is your driveway?

GTST I read your first post about the mines gtr incorrectly. So please ignore my post following.

Yer it sucks.. I can't see a pattern.. Others have replaced injectors, o2 sensors the lot and still get crap economy. It appears a lot of the R33's suffer the economy problem where as its fairly rare for an R32 not to easily push over 400-450km's per tank with mods.

Its such a waste running a big comp wheel when the hot side simply can't flow it.... Trade off response for.... Throw a 48t on it and it would be a much better match.

No point owning a nice car if you don't drive and enjoy every minute of it.. Always been my moto. Unless its one of those skylines that only return 300-350km's per tank no matter what you do.... Some are like that, some arn't. Mines not. Then I guess 60,000km's per year is quite a bit lol. Move closer.

I usually find the maximum the ram is able to handle.. Keep the cpu near stock as possible speeds and ramp up the ram speed. Use memtest to find its limits. Then drop the ram back down. Now ramp up the cpu speed and use prime95 to find its sweet spot. I usually do this by ramping up the speed until it requires a few volts to be stable, the sweet spot is where you need large increases in vcore to achieve only a small increase in cpu speed. Heat usually becomes an issue but as you are running water you shouldn't have the heat problem. Then you know the limits of both the ram and cpu. Now try to find the closest speed attainable for both the cpu and the ram.

As I had a couple of small issues that annoyed me I bought some mesh, cut it to fit and glued it in. Looked like a new one. I was a little worried the superglue (was the most expensive I could find) would let go due to the heat but after several checks and many kays it hung in there perfectly fine.

Thats what I thought also ben... I also had a couple noticable issues when I removed the mesh on mine. 1. Idle wasn't as stable 2. When coming off hard throttle the car would act as if I had stabbed the accel. quickly causing the car to give a little lunge forward 'just' after I jumped off the throttle. It may have been just me but I swear spool improved a tad, but it may have just been running a tad richer as mine was (with the mesh on) running in the mid 13's until around 4000rpm. As with flow the center flows quicker, removing the mesh would only increase center airflow. I don't know a whole heap about flow dynamics but I do remember it went something like that.

Sounds normal to me...

lol at the mines GTR and time attack trials. Hardly related to street use/speeds + Its making up around 600bhp, clearly the stock air box isn't going to cut it at those power levels. So stock airbox for sensible street power levels as I stated in a previous post.

I have around 6.5kgcm2 (90psi) over 4000rpm. Running 5w40. Castrol 10w60 over 4000rpm was simply too thick for the way my motor has been setup, I was seeing 8.25kgcm2 (117psi). Idle is always ~2 kgcm2 (30psi) and cruising around 2000-3000rpm is 4-5kgcm2 (57-71psi) I really don't know the history of the pump, I bought it second hand as an rb25det oil pump and was in good condition, no wear and very clean.

The repco filter I ran did whats known as tunneling (I chopped it open), apparently valvoline filters do this also. So I wouldn't be touching ryco.

I think I'll keep my R32 until it rusts away, use it as a daily work commuter. Buy a decent car for the other half and kids when I'm out of uni.. lol

How long have you had your 33? I've been warned once in 4.5years and yes I drive like a grandma, just ask AM-Performance lol. I too knew one day I would be pulled up for my tint, the small issue I had was the way I was picked out of a bunch of cars that too had tint, look around the majority of cars that do have tint also have it on their front windows. I know the inlaws commodore and bmw both do, as do my parents 100series landcruiser, prior their patrol and prior to that their 80series landcruiser, the old mans work truck too has tint on the front windows as my sisters vl and my other sisters festiva. that last little bit on buy a laser... yes its sad but true.. There are nazi coppers out there that simply do not like imports, there actually are a hell of a lot of people that do indeed hate the imports, this became aparent when shopping around to rebuild my short motor. Many many people were close minded and said they either are not interested in building jap crap or went on to rant how they all should be defected as they are dangerous plastic crap. My old man, uncles (apart from one) initially called it jap crap, hell I even used to call them jap crap. 4.5years of reliability has opened their eyes.. I'm still on my standard power steer pump while their new commodores have chewed threw one. I wonder if you will come on here and cry if you get picked out of a bunch of cars cruising with your other half and son in his baby seat when there are family commodore/falcon around you that too have tint on their front windows. I am still a little shocked with how the cop stopped all of the traffic, walked through it up to me and then instructed myself to stay put while the traffic cleared, only then was I instructed to move to the side of the road. My other half claims when he saw the bubs he smiled, prior to that he did have a bit of an attitude, possibly what saved me. I must admit I have thought about selling the car for a larger car that suits a baby better, the one thing stopping me is the unknown, I've owned commodores and fords before, every single one requires constant repairs, if its not the power steering pump is the rack, if its not the rack its the crappy auto's they run, if its not that its the a/c if its not that its some thing else, it just goes on and on and on and on... a bit like me now so I think I'll leave it at that. </rant> lol...

And isn't it rather interesting how your injectors are 100% and your afm reads 5.115 volts yet only making 187rwkw or whatever it was. Then you wonder why it completely reels past 210rwkw+ rb's. Shauns dyno reads slightly lower.

Yer the R32 uses the exhaust. light.

Throw a set of rb25/26 rods and an rb26 crank in to the rb20 that will have it spooling earlier, then shove boost down its throat. The rb30 works out too expensive if you want it too rev + your likely to overshoot your 250rwkw by a fair margin.

I'm keen to check it out The mobile isn't working as it was dunked in coffee, the home phone.. Best not to ring.. so just pop around if your down this way.

Check the exh. temp sensor is ground properly. Erm... are you sure you haven't got a tad mixed up which light flashes on the r32??? I have just checked mine and its always the cat temp light that flashes due to detonation or afm maxing out. The light you state to be the green box (top right) on mine is actually a seat belt light that flashes on and off when you first turn the ignition on. I don't actually appear to have a check engine light. I'll take a pic in a few minutes and throw it up, maybe its moved around a tad on the rwd pos version. My light that flashes is most definitely the bottom left light through. Which does appear to be the cat light. My lights are layed out as followed.. Top left, NFI Top right, seat belt warning Bottom left, cat temp Bottom right, door open warning Not too sure where my check engine light is... I've never seen it come on.